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1960 Norton Navigator Rebuild

Submitted by ulrich_hoffmann on Sun, 07/08/2016
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Light Twins

As mentioned in the other thread " Planning to buy a Navigator"the planning phase is now over and the bike is in my workshop.

According to the papers the bike was put off the road in 2004.

Initally the barrels and heads were missing but I bought some barrels in the UK and also some NOS heads are on the way from London.

The previous owner made a new wiring harness but with only two colours: red and blue- the first thing to throw out. He also changed the electric system to 12 volts and installed a Boyer ingnition. There is a Wipac rotor in the parts pile and a Lucas stator from a Commando, which does not quite fit onto the studs in the primary case. I also have a 6 Volt stator. Will have to find out how this goes together.

I already repositioned the rear fender which was mounted in a rather odd angle.

The gearbox mainshaft has a lot of play on the drive sprocket side, I guess the bearing is toast. What size do I need? It is the early type gearbox.

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Submitted by ulrich_hoffmann on Fri, 21/10/2016

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Hello Ian!

Your pictures of your build are also a great help for me.

I also had the issue of too many holes in the rear mudguard. It looked like a swiss cheese! Mine is painted so I gave it away to weld the holes shut. I have to find the proper position for it and then drill holes for the side handles an upper mounts at the shocks. The PO had a extension fitted at the front of the guard (see my first post in this threat)so it was way too low at the back.I removed it, drilled some new holes but it was not sitting correctly also. Not sure if it is the original mudguard anyway.

Yours looks like to be a bit high in the rear, almost like a scrambler.

Submitted by ian_easton on Fri, 21/10/2016

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I was thinking it looks high too, especially if I compare it to the original adverts. If I move it to the front set of holes I have then the front bracket will miss by a few inches.

Submitted by ulrich_hoffmann on Sun, 30/10/2016

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Previously patrick_mullen wrote:

Your before picture is fine - so hopefully it all pulls together properly when you get your frame rails back.

The oil pipes are easy to sort; ..... and the other pipe connects to the rear chain guard ( approx 20 inches of 1/4 bore oil grade pipe....

Where and how is this hose fixed to the chainguard?

I have no closed chaincase but only the upper chainguard.

Submitted by patrick_mullen on Sun, 30/10/2016

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On my Standard Navigator there is a hole with a rubber grommet in the top of the standard chainguard - about 15/20mm from the front edge. The breather pipe simply pushes into this hole and any oil mist from the breather lubricates the chain. My De Luxe Navigator with the fully enclosed chaincase is virtually identical.

Patrick

Submitted by patrick_mullen on Sun, 30/10/2016

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Hi Dan,

I can't guarantee that this is original Norton fitting as I have two other chainguards which don't have the hole in them. However the two chainguards without the holes are definitely not Norton originals while the fully enclosed chaincase on the De Luxe is almost certainly an original part. Also in the Norton Spare Parts List for 1959 under Rear Chainguard and Fittings there is a ' Breather pipe grommet' - part no 18285 - listed. The same grommet - same part no - fits both the standard and the Full Rear Chaincase (optional equipment).

It is a tidy method of fitting and very practical.

Patrick.

Submitted by dan_field on Mon, 31/10/2016

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I'm not sure mine is original, but it's certainly a bit battered! As you say it's a tidy way of dealing with the breather.

dan

Submitted by patrick_mullen on Mon, 31/10/2016

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Hi Ulrich,

My Navigator only puts out some oil when it wet sumps after it has been left unused for months. Then it can leave a puddle of oil as it runs out of the breather pipe unto the chain and on to the ground. The chrome filter is probably unnecessary but it looks good so your choice.

You said you only had the UPPER chainguard. The Standard type chainguard is actually three parts - an upper guard (part no 22341), a lower guard (part no 21161) and a chainguard extension (part no 23172). The NOC shop keeps them all I think.

As a matter of interest the original price in 1961 was ; eight shillings and six pence for the upper guard and the lower guard was four shillings. That's in old money so I think about 62.5 pence in modern. And there was no VAT to pay as well.

Patrick

Submitted by peter_holland1 on Mon, 31/10/2016

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The frame, wheels and suspension of the Francis Barnett range of larger two stroke motorcycles formed the starting point for the Norton lightweight. ( All part of AMC group) The chainguard of Francis Barnett cruiser was used for the Norton Lightweights, but an additional hole added for the oil tank breather.

The FB, being two stroke, didn't have an oil tank.

Sellers of pattern chainguards describe the part as suitable for FB or Norton Lightweight. But it doesn't have the Norton hole!

Peter

Ulrich Hoffmann wrote:

No hole in my chainguard either.

Will find another way to fix the breather hose.

The previous owner used some sort of filter at the end of the hose.

Submitted by ulrich_hoffmann on Mon, 31/10/2016

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Today I finally got the left frame loop from the powdercoaters. So I could complete the frame built up.The number is now visible. Eventually I will cover it with some matching spray paint after the German MOT and paperwork is done.

The rear swing arm is also in place. The centre stand (it fits!)is held by a new chromed spring. I ordered it via Ebay. It is originally for a Peugeot scooter. The horn has also found it?s place with a selfmade bracket.

Also the oil lines to the engine are already in place

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Submitted by patrick_mullen on Tue, 01/11/2016

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You will feel happier now that the frame fits properly back together. Your upper chainguard looks the correct shape to me. What Peter says makes complete sense that the replica chainguard is made to fit the Francis Barnett and simply by adding a hole it becomes a Norton chainguard. Easy.

Submitted by ulrich_hoffmann on Wed, 02/11/2016

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Today?s task:

fitting the rear wheel. Firstly I drilled a hole into the front end of the chainguard to fix the breather hose from the oil tank. Then the rear wheel was slipped into the rear swing arm and the chain was laid on.

Gentlemen, please have a look at the picture with the brake pedal stop. I have no clue how it is fixed. It was missing and I ordered a new one from the NOC shop.

I fashioned a bracket for the stop light switch which has to be painted . I had to bend the brake rod or else it would interfere with the passenger footrest.

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Submitted by dan_field on Wed, 02/11/2016

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Hi Ulrich that is coming on nicely,

I have had the same conundrums! .... But I think the brake light switch was mounted on a bracket from the back of the rear footrest mount, that's where mine is going, I also had to bend my brake rod, having spent a while straightening it! But I made mine into a bow shape. There is clear evidence of it rubbing for many years so this must be normal, your bend looks very professional!

The good news is you have the brake lever stop in the right place, although all the pictures I have show it being positioned vertically and directly under the footrest.

Hope that helps

dan

Submitted by ulrich_hoffmann on Thu, 03/11/2016

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Thanks Dan for shedding a light on the brake pedal stop!

The brake light switch was mounted on the on the footrest mount but by a homemade bracket of the PO. I saw some pics on which it was mounted the way I did. Maybe I move it back to the footrest because the cables are a bit short.

Submitted by patrick_mullen on Thu, 03/11/2016

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The 1959 Maintenance Manual says;

BRAKE PEDAL ADJUSTMENT.

The brake pedal stop is situated at the left hand end of the footrest rod. By slackening off the footrest rod nut the pedal stop may be rotated and locked into another position, thus providing a certain amount of adjustment. Altering the position of the pedal pad will necessitate adjustment of the brake rod.

The straight brake rod on mine rubs the passenger footrest. I think this is normal but it has been queried by the vehicle test examiner when the bike was tested. He did pass it as the rod does not rub when the bike is in the riding position, i.e the rod only rubs the footrest when on the stand. The Norton footrest is specially shaped at this point to allow maximum clearance.

Patrick.

Submitted by ulrich_hoffmann on Thu, 03/11/2016

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Thank you Patrick for the explanation of the brake pedal stop adjustment.

Don?t know if the passenger footrest is original. I changed the mounting point of the stop light switch. It now is mounted at the footrest hanger. I made a new bracket for it which is bent at the bottom so it does not move around when tightening the footrest nut. I left a slight bend in the brake rod. But as you stated it won?t rub the footrest when riding the bike. The shocks are compressed and so the rear brake has another angle to the brake pedal.

I also started to make a new wiring harness, far more simple than the original one.

Now I wait for the delivery from the NOC shop order. Also parts have to be painted so there will not be much progress in the near future.

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Submitted by ulrich_hoffmann on Wed, 09/11/2016

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I bought a battery and connected the wiring harness.

Everything works so far!

Only the Wipac switch for the lights has a connection problem. I already ordered a new one. I made a positive ground connection point for all items ( lights, ignition, rear lights, headlamp) and moved the power box to the rear of the centre channnel for better cooling and to get it out of the way from the carburettor. Have to bundle and clean up the wiring a little bit.

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Submitted by ulrich_hoffmann on Sun, 13/11/2016

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The NOC shop order arrived on Friday. Pistons +0,10 and a new cylinder liner liner to replace the broken one. Will give it to a machine shop to spindle out the barrel and shrink the new one in.

Then rebore both barrels for the new pistons.

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Submitted by ulrich_hoffmann on Tue, 29/11/2016

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Here is my rear mudguard after welding shut several holes in it.

I have some trouble getting it to fit right. I guess it is too short. Measurement across the top from end to end is 120cm or 47 inches.

The front end does not reach below the swing arm to the front fixing bracket when the rear end is in the oorrect height. Is it an origninal mudguard?

When Idismantled the bike there was another piece of mudguard bolted on the end. (See first post)

Can somebody please measure his original fender?

Sorry for the pics, my picture resize program somehow distorted them..

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Submitted by patrick_mullen on Tue, 29/11/2016

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It's very difficult to get a really accurate measurement with everything fitted on the bike but I reckon the length is 127cm or approx 50 inches. So your mudguard is too short; that why someone had fitted the extension in the first place.

The mudguard profile from the back looks very similar to mine but of course mine has the original style rear light/number plate fitted to it so you don't actually see a lot of the mudguard. See picture attached.

Maybe someone can give a more precise measurement.

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Submitted by ulrich_hoffmann on Tue, 29/11/2016

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Thanks Patrick for your "rough" measurement.

Guess I?ll have to refit the extention . Looking at the pics from Ian Easton?s rebuild I don?t think I have an original rear fender.

Mine is cut out where the chainguard goes, Ian?s has a recess in that area. Anyway I?ll fit it since I have no other. The extension is barely visible down there.

Today I sent away my tank for paint removing in an acid bath.

The powder coating firm also offers this service. The man promised m a bare metal tank. I had to get rid off the cracked inner coating of the tank. We?ll see..

BTW: what size are the screws holding the tank side ornaments?

One is missing..

Submitted by patrick_mullen on Wed, 30/11/2016

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Petrol tanks are becoming a problem as modern petrol containing ethanol attacks the old tank liners. It also attacks the old rubber pipe but that is easily and cheaply cured by fitting a new pipe which is made from a more suitable type of modern rubber. The latest tank liners now claim to be ethanol resistant but I have not had any first hand experience of using these.

The screws holding on the tank badges are 4BA to the best of my knowledge. This size is virtually identical to 3.5mm. In the UK household electric wall switches and sockets are fixed to their wall boxes by 3.5mm chrome headed brass screws and I have used these for fitting the badges as every household has spares of these. I'm not sure exactly what thread they have but certainly in my case they all screwed in easily. They are available very cheaply from any DIY store - certainly in England or Ireland but maybe not in Germany.

Patrick

Submitted by ulrich_hoffmann on Wed, 30/11/2016

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Today I cleaned up the welding spots on the mudguard , added the extension again and fitted it to the frame. It looks ok to me, the rear end not too high or too low. The license plate holder made in India was also mounted.

Boyer-Brandsen sent me a correct plate for the ignition. The previous owner used a Commando plate.

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Submitted by patrick_mullen on Thu, 01/12/2016

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That will look really good when it gets a coat of paint - it follows the wheel line very very nicely .

Do you need to fit a reflector to comply with TUV rules ?

Interesting ! How did the previous owner fit a Commando ignition plate? Surely it is too big. The correct one to fit also fits the BSA Bantam 4 speed - info per Boyer. The one I have has worked perfectly for years.

Patrick

Submitted by ulrich_hoffmann on Thu, 01/12/2016

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au contraire, mon cher!

The Commando plate is smaller in diameter. It was put in in 1983, so I guess there was no plate for the Navigator available. The Navigator plate has a diameter of 76mm.

I have contact with the pre-pre owner, a guy from Belgium who imported the bike in 1983 as a non runner to Belgium from an elderly gentleman from north london .

He converted it to 12 volts and the Boyer ignition. He is about to look for photos etc. of the bike. So this puts a little light on the history of the bike.

Last time the TUV did not ask for a reflector when testing my Commando , so we?ll see..

Submitted by fritz_wettstein on Thu, 01/12/2016

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Hi Uli,

If you're looking for a Lucas rear ligth lens, there is one on ebay right now, not really expensive.

Ebay-no: 162303375387

Fritz

 



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