Hi all - my 16H (WD) chugs away much the same as it has done since I built it in the mid 1990's but now - rather suddenly, it doesn't pull cleanly and will not slow-run without about having the air-choke half closed. It has loads of compression, starts up promptly as ever but will not idle without choke on to some degree, and won't accelerate properly either without same richening trick. Spark is very strong, I have cleaned the carb out a couple of times (finding no issues). The fuel level in the float chamber is per spec. I tried richening up the main needle a coupIe of notches but no improvement (which wouldn;t fix the idle issue anyway). I am starting to think this has nothing to do with the carb, as it clearly affects low, medium and high throttle settings, and the carb manages all of those differently.
Any thoughts?
Cleaning the carb is not…
- Log in to post comments
It sounds like you are going…
It sounds like you are going beyond rich, try the opposite direction.
- Log in to post comments
...and do check the mag…
...and do check the mag points and perhaps oil the wick
..
But symptoms do sound like pilot jet blocked
- Log in to post comments
Ethanol fuel mix ??
Hi Russ, My every day car is 32 years old and has a carb as standard equipment. Just recently it's general low speed running has become erratic, so I've tried cleaning the jets, changing the fuel filter and ignition advance. These didn't make much improvement and I am thinking the E10 fuel may have a different formula to previously.
- Log in to post comments
E10
My now sold WD16H ran better with one step larger main jet than standard. But that was long before E10. Ethanol blended fuels always runs leaner than pure petrol. So larger jets often required. E10 has a best before date of less than two months. Lighter components evaporate and the ethanol draws water from air moisture.
One thing you could try is empty the tank and refill with some alkylate fourstroke fuel like Aspen. Often available in farm shops for use in lawn movers. After six years sleeping with Aspen in the tank my WD16H started second kick. Had forgotten to lower ignition first kick, kicked back. Now have the routine that last two fills in autumn is with Aspen. Too much work emptying tank and carbs on half a dozen bikes.
- Log in to post comments
Jet Blocks
As Robert says, it's not possible to clean the pilot circuit on a 76 or 276 without removing the jet block. They are easily damaged and best done after dropping the mixing chamber into a bowl of boiling water (the mazac body will expand faster than the brass) then use a softwood dowel to gently press (unless you have access to a lathe, in which case make up a two-part drift). The tiny hole low down on the engine side will probably be blocked.
- Log in to post comments
Jet block removal
I think I managed to knock mine out with a 3/8 drive extension bar , but as said a bit tight coming out , replace the paper gasket found under .
- Log in to post comments
Great posts - thanks all
Thanks to everyone for all that advice.
I am going to drain and refill with garage-fresh fuel, as it is mostly a mix of very old (1-2 years) and new. I have a spare carb to set up and try, but the full strip and clean sounds risky! Bad design. It might prove necessary to try as I see a new carb from AMAL is painful at £500, and all the 'used' ones I've looked at have been tired, to be polite.
- Log in to post comments
Sounds like a pilot jet…
Sounds like a pilot jet issue, I'd pay particular attention to the jet and carb passage ways maybe get a new jet, they are not expensive like the carbs!
- Log in to post comments
Blocked idle passages
There really is no option other than to tap out the jet block from underneath. It's not that difficult . Just remove any adjustment or locating screws and tap it out . Expanding the body with a little hot water will give a bit more clearance as the body often goes out of round . Inspect minutely the tiny fuel ways .
- Log in to post comments
Update! old carb vs new one......
I read all the advice from contributors and Robert Tuck's "cleaning the carb properly is not easy" is something of an understatement. Having to strip it completely to piece-part level takes a long time, some ingenuity and even after all that, I still had erratic idling problems, even though the main problem of the engine needing choke all the time was solved. So.....I bit the bullet and purchased a brand new AMAL carb, absolutely built to the WD 16H spec, and my goodness, what a difference. Straight out of the box, with no set up needed, it fired up first kick. No fuel leaks - anywhere. After some minor tweaks to throttle idle and mixture settings, the idle stability is impeccable. It will sit there on the drive at ludicrously low RPM, then open up, and it is smooth all the way as far I ever rev the 16H. It's an incredible transformation. Not cheap, but overall, I have not a singe regret. AND ....AMAL is a UK company, and I believe their carbs are made in the UK too. All good.
- Log in to post comments
My 99 has a similar issue…
My 99 has a similar issue with a monoblock .it will idle fine and starts well. but for years would on occasion spit and stop when pulling away or riding slowly. New slides,several alternative complete carbs . pilot and slide changes and even a fully recon carb by Mr bratby has not cured it. Am now looking into the Advance retard unit which may be advancing too early . I suppose it could be worn valve guides allowing air in or an intake air leak.As the motor has not been appart for 30 years . When I will get to the bottom of it who Knows!.
- Log in to post comments
Cleaning the carb properly is not easy , there are fine passages you have not accessed. drive out the jet block after removing screw from side of carb.