Ametech Engine Restorer

Hi Graham, Just so you dont get a mix up later ,the 19 tooth engine sprocket makes the gearing lower (not higher) than normal and coincidentally makes it slightly harder to kick over than the correct sprocket would . Takes a bit of mental juggling to accept !!.  The cold clatter is fairly common on the Atlas and is piston slap that eases off as the motor warms up . Some did it from new. The HC pistons also are heavier than the orriginal dished ones and also can have extra thick strong gudgion pins that add weight . If you ever  get it apart it would benefit from a re-balance that just  might reduce the vibes . We geared our Atlas up with a 21 tooth sprocket, only just enough room and it has helped . (but its still a booger to kick over ).

I hate to start an oil thread, but I see this as snake oil. For example, have a good read through:-

https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/ametech-engine-restore-oil.66347/

And a number of other forums.

And make your own mind up.

My precious motorcycle engines would never forgive me if I contaminated their life blood with something that resembles a scam product without me firstly conducting a Q&A with my preferred engine oil company saying it was safe to use in their products.

The previous comment with its forum link says all there is to say on the "additives" issue. The date line may be 14 years or so but the comments are still valid today outlining the same lack of credible positive back up and referral literature.

Caveat emptor anyone?

Take a look.

Oil manufacturers invariably add the caveat not to add anything to their oils, in my experience. I would be particularly circumspect where adding modern very slippery additives to classic mineral oil is concerned. It may quieten things down a tad short term, but what lasting damage could it do to, say, cams and followers? It starts to get expensive then....

I'll stick with regular oil changes and a full flow filter.

Sawdust in the sump was alleged to be a used car salesman trick...seriously, is this something to make the seals swell?  If so, will they soften and wear away, then dry out and be worse?

A bike thats easy to kick over is usually well loosened  up and often  performs well. Sometimes its the last hurrah !   before a rebuild become due. The Atlas will rumble on for years  if not  abused . Oil burning is the driver that will provke a rebore/re-ring and valve job , then its back to a stiff lump to kick over till it settles down .I think the additive is reducing the piston slap and hence the vibration. There is also the brainwash effect too !.

Not much point in having a rev counter on the Atlas,  a blanking plate on the cover and reduce the weight by putting the clock and bracket  in the cupboard. 

Robert, its all about self codology to which I am a prime paid up member to.

To have a rev counter on any supposed "fast" bike makes me feel to be one of the racing community with none existent racing skills never mind bravery to any great extent.

So leave us to  our illusionary fantasies and to keep our rev counters to savour that inner glow such emotions evoke as we don our mark eights and take a blast down to the end of the driveway. 

I am minded to think the same as I think of the fuel "catalysts" that are available.  No properly researched explanation as to how they work.  Just unfounded claims of the veracity of the product.

One explanation  as to how Ametech works suggest that it deposits a compound (metal?) on the worn surfaces.  How does it know whats worn?   Can it detect the worn area in a cylinder, perhaps "blow by" causes a reaction that deposits a layer (of something) in this area?

Graham Z, do you have a link to the tech literature?

..who fitted so many fuel saving devices on his car, he had to drain the petrol tank every week to stop it overflowing... 

so went to the "americantechnology" site, same thing?  Lots of words about what it is claimed to do but no explanation as to how it does backed up by the science it uses to achieve the claimed results.

Why do they never explain why it tastes of liquorice?

You must have seen the demo at the shows. Works in an old laydown box I had trouble getting a clean gear selection. Poured the rest in the motor and felt a much cleaner rise through the rev range.

PS: should the mudguard stays be black, not chrome? That will surely affect airflow?…. :~)

They demonstrate it at shows.

That’s not a good sign!

STP Oil Treatment is good at rejuvenating tired oil seals, this is a tip the old man gave me, he ran Earles Fork BMWs and replacing the rear main oil seal behind the clutch is a pain, so he told me that half a tin of STPOT added to the engine oil at the next change will soften the seal enough to start working again in about 300 miles, and you know what, it does, more often than not.

And it is nothing like £24 for 400ml.

Some snake oils do work

About 20 yrs back I put a Teflon type snake oil into my diesel engined van and when I picked up my mate to go to work he said after a few miles “ vans running lovely what have you done to it ?

Subsequently did around 300k miles on that van

I remember Raymond Baxter showing a demonstration of a Teflon oil on Tomorrows World.

The outcome was convincing proving its efficacy I must say.  That was the last I heard about it until today.

That “Teflon” oil additive might have been Slick 50.

Here a link to a court case that went against the makers.  https://www.ftc.gov/news-events/news/press-releases/1997/07/quaker-state-subsidiaries-settle-ftc-charges-against-slick-50

“ My Teflon “ product wasn’t slick50 though I cannot remember the actual name all I know is the engine was smoother running and overall quieter to the point that it was like comparing old tech diesel injection to new tech diesel injection, anyway it isn’t Norton so I’ll sign off on this now