Removing / Fitting 650SS standard original Slimline Rear Wheel

Hi Tim, I usually Split the hub thinking it will be easier.  But then struggle getting it out .  On the road I have had to lay the bike down . The DL with its removable rear panel should in theory be easier, but its not.  Strangely its my next job on the 63 SS .  Even with a table and removable floor panel its a struggle on the DL. Hope its easier with the SS, 

I recently had to replace the front mounting bolt in my Wideline type swinging arm bracket.  No pleasure all as I eventually I had to first remove the wheel and then the mudguard, plus the battery box lid in order to gain access. This in turn also led to splitting the chain, remove the brake rod, brake switch and battery. All to replace one single bolt.!!!

Then getting the wheel out provided its own fun and games as the mudguard stopped this from being an easy action.  In the end I found that the best solution was a 2" thick chunk of wood under the stand.  This allowed the complete wheel & sprocket to clear the swinging arm lugs, drop onto the ground and then swivel enough to pass between the silencer, mudguard and swinging arm.

A month or two back I trued removing mine, leaving drum in place.  Couldn't get it apart.  It's got itself stuck before, and I'm pretty sure I put coppaslip on it when I finally managed.  I might attack it again if the weather ever improves, and use a fancy anti- seize spray I now have.

Tim,

On my standard Atlas, I would have the Bike on its centre stand and remove the QD wheel leaving the sprocket, brake drum etc in situ.

Now the tricky part... Standing on the left of the Bike, lean the Bike until it is supported on the hips, thighs, groin area and with the free ( right hand) wheel the wheel out between the mudguard and silencer.

Replacement is similar to removal. Not the easiest task I admit. 

The owners manual for my Guzzi SP recommended this procedure with out any mention of the chain and brake drum of course.

Good luck.

Don Anson Melbourne Australia 

When I had my ‘68 Bonneville, it had the splined QD rear wheel that left the brake drum in place, as per Norton ‘QD’ wheels.  The bike did not have a centre stand, so I would start by loosening the wheel spindle and then simply lifted the rear of the bike from the right-hand side, tipping it to the left. The bike would be balanced on front wheel and sidestand, while I wedged a piece of wood under the frame to hold it there.  After removing the spindle, spacer and speedo drive, the wheel could simply be eased off the splines and slid at an angle past mudguard and silencer.  Sounds a lot of effort, but with the leverage from the rear to the side stand, it was not difficult at all, and the bike could be supported with one hand while wedging the wood in with the other.

Of course, the bike needs a sidestand for this technique to work, and not all slimlines have them.

Don,

I too have used 'your' method for Featherbed rear wheel removal.

On my standard Atlas, I would have the Bike on its centre stand and remove the QD wheel leaving the sprocket, brake drum etc in situ.

Now the tricky part... Standing on the left of the Bike, lean the Bike until it is supported on the hips, thighs, groin area and with the free ( right hand) wheel the wheel out between the mudguard and silencer.

Replacement is similar to removal. Not the easiest task I admit. 

 There is one other point to note with this method, it is useful to have another person to hand, 'her indoors' can be very handy pulling out the rear wheel. And perhaps replacing it later!

. 

This all sounds familiar! Removing the rear wheel on my  650 engined wideline with non original stainless mudguard is reasonably straightfoward. I usually split the link and remove the wheel complete with brake drum.  The wheel just about pulls out without tilting the bike.

However my old MK3 Commando was a complete pain.  First the chain had to be split then the brake caliper had to be removed and  suspended clear.  I then  had to dismantle the pannier bar on the craven rack followed by the silencer and on occasions I found it easier to remove the rear number plate as I didn't trust one leg of the  centre stand to take the weight if tilted over.  So much for a quick detachable wheel!

I've had rear wheel punctures whilst touring in Germany and had no problems removing the QD rear wheel as the Mercury mudguard has no side valences.  When at home and I want to remove the rear wheel I park it under the garage door where there is a 50mm step as this makes it even easier.

Another reason that it may be easier is because I've added some extra metal pads under the centre stand, so it does lift it slightly higher.

I rock the bike sequentially from left to right, placing a series of 3/4" pieces of board under the legs of the centre stand - sitting astride the bike so I don't drop it.  That lifts the bike high enough to remove the wheel by juggling it on a slant.  It also needs a weight on the front until the wheel is detached, hopefully using the QD release if it's not stuck.  Otherwise you might do it by annoying pedestrians by putting it cross ways on a pavement (footway) with rear overhanging a kerb.

This sometimes works if you have a side stand fitted. Bike on centre stand. Side stand down too.

Loosen the wheel from the sprocket so it is loose ready for removal.

Carefully lean the bike to the left pivoting on the left leg of the centre stand until the side stand is on the ground too.

Then leaning over the bike while holding it in that position try to wiggle the wheel out from under the mudguard and round the silencer! A second person definitely helps here.

Precarious but it does work.

Paul

Hi Tim,

A simple enough job!    I put the main stand onto a block of wood,. 2" high does the job and out it came with plenty of clearance.

The reason for the removal was a broken spoke. (Always keep some stainless spares of both lengths)

Then off with the wheel to the General in Wigginton for fixing and a new tube.Refit...Sorted.

is that the one near Tring? If so, as I live in the area, who is the General??

Sorry Jan.

This is up in God's country, North Yorkshire.

Most people around here know the General. He's especially good with wheels and tyres.