I am nearing the end of restoring a '47 Inter model 30. The only rubber seals for the primary case that I seem to be able to find are the ones supplied by the club, RGM and Andover Norton, measuring approximately 9mm thick and 24 mm wide. There is absolutely no way that the outer primary case will fit with these seals. I need something thinner and narrower. Can anyone point me in the direction of where to find a suitable seal?
Cheers, Howard.
Dimensions sound ok
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Thanks for your input…
Thanks for your input Jonathan. The mating faces of both inner & outer case - joddle, as you call it, only measure 7/8" across - so a bit narrower than the rubber. Also none of the three rubber seals that I have is radiused. Cross section is rectangular. They aren't that old and don't seem too hard, but are definitely reluctant to compress. I can only get the nut on by two threads and only by using a plain flat washer - not the proper one.
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I have a similar problem…
I have a similar problem with a 16H. I had to mount the fixing nut on a mandrel and turn half its thickness away on the lathe. I even wondered if the inner case is set too far out with spacing washers from the crankcase but it can't be that because it's very difficult to remove the magneto cap as it is.
On another bike I use foam 'backer bar' strip. Sold for filling behind silicone sealant in movement joints in buildings. Fills uneven joints but messy to use because it's soft and slippery when oily.
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Thanks, David. i think the…
Thanks, David. i think the problem is that our parts stockists only carry one sized seal and it's for the later twins.
Re clearance for the mag points cap - there seems to be at least 4 different profiles of lip on outer covers, varying from a consistent width to various tapers, to a rectangular cut out opposite the points cover. There are very few totally original bikes left to know which type should be on which model. I'll likely never figure that one out!
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Closed cell neoprene strip,…
Closed cell neoprene strip, can be bought in the width and thickness you need from many rubber suppliers.
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If it’s not radiused…
... it is probably stock "rubber". The chamfer is important to get the fit in the "joddle" of the cover. I think my approach would be to cut the rubber, lay it out on a bench and sand the edge to the profile of the cover. It needs to be pretty consistent profile, (disk sander and a distance piece to control the shape would help). Once complete, superglue the ends back together.
If you then increase the plasticity by one of the methods above and get to the point you can get the nut on. Dry Fit it with the nut on an see how many threads you can get now. assist the nut by using clamps or straps. If you are happy glue and grease as before. Once on leave it a day leave it a day or so then go again putting another turn on the nut.
if all else fails fails go with Ashley's suggestion of closed cell neoprene. Much more compressible. But use silicone grease to seal the outer as neoprene will break down with mineral oil based grease.
cheers
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Thanks, Jonathon - I like…
Thanks, Jonathon - I like the idea of sanding the rubber to size. I'll have to put some thought into a suitable jig to do that.
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Early chaincase seal specs
The early models had a narrower width seal than the slimline models. The width is 16mm with a 1 in 20 taper from one edge to the other.
I have used this seal on my plunger framed bikes (Model 7 and ES2) and also on my WD bikes and the outer chaincase fits easily and the nut tightens to show about 2 threads on the spacer.
Howard, I have just done a trial assembly on my 1949 Inter with similar results.
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Hi Ian, That sounds like…
Hi Ian,
That sounds like exactly what I need - where did you get it, or is it an original?
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I use the closed cell…
I use the closed cell neoprene strip, it works well, but important to get an oil resistant one.
Dan
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Ashley and Dan, Thanks for…
Ashley and Dan,
Thanks for that - if all else fails I will try the closed cell neoprene strip.
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Alternative hollow D shaped rubber
I've tried a slightly different approach and found a hollow D shape rubber extrusion that I've fitted to my 1954 ES2. On the Provincial Rubber Ltd. website I found the section code HOD012 which I fitted a couple of years ago and it doesn't leak. I stretch the rubber section around the inner case for the length, then cut it slightly shorter so that there is some tension to grip when fitted. I've glued the flat side to the inner chain case. Some grease can then be applied to help slide the outer cover on.
The good thing is that there is a narrow point of contact on the outer case and being hollow it will squish down and follow any irregularities of the outer case. It will cost about £30 to buy this. My ES2 required a length of 1130mm to make the seal.
Other rubber extrusion companies products may be available but the one I used was:
https://www.provincialrubber.co.uk/product-category/rubber-and-polyurethane/extrusions-and-mouldings/page/2/
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Maybe it has gone hard? Wipe it over with olive oil and pop in a plastic bag overnight. Wash it off in hot water and soap before you fit. One edge should be radiused which fits into the radius of the joddle of the outer case.
Personally I use Evostick on the vertical face of the inner case. Use normal practice of sanding the rubber, coating both surfaces and let it dry. Try and keep it warm. Hold it in place by temporarily fitting the outer to evenly press the rubber against the inner case. Hold it in place with long zip ties or ratchet clamps. Strips of rubber or carpet under protects the finish.
Next day, remove the outer and use heavy grease in the joddle of the outer. Warm the rubber/inner face with a hair drier. Then fit the outer, using the zip ties/clamps to ease the cases together until you can get the nut and washer on, then between the three complete the closing.
Leave it another day before removing the temp fixings.
Minor imperfections in the case joint should be managed by the softness of the rubber. And when it comes to removal, it should part at the grease joint and not the glued side.
j