On removing the sleeve gear in my 650SS gearbox, the bearing came out with it. No heat was used. I must admit that I did use a little more than a slight tap with my rubber mallet. The bearing is now stuck fast on the sleeve gear. Even though I put the gear and bearing in the oven it still won't shift. On close inspection I think I can see traces of loctite. Now if it comes to it, buying a new sleeve gear and bearing is no real issue especially since the rest of the box internals seem good. But I am worried about why the bearing popped out the cold casing and any damage which I may have caused by my couple of hefty blows. However, there does appear to be evidence of the bearing turning in the housing. Some very slight scoring visible. I'm somewhat cautious about using loctite unless I can be told that this is an appropriate method. The engine main bearings are pegged in a manner exactly as described in Paul Dunstall's tuning book. A previous owner did this. I'm just wondering if this method can be applied to the gearbox bearing.
In my experience it’s not…
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Bearing
To get it off the sleeve gear you can use a angle grinder through the outer race and do same to inner. Loose in case is common you can Loctite it but it’s always an issue. I put two countersunk screws in mine by spark eroding a bit of the countersink in the bearing and tapping the casing easy if you have a toolroom!
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Gary, It would be worth…
Gary,
It would be worth checking the land between the mainshaft and layshaft bearing housings - if that is cracked (common), the clamping load on the bearing outer tracks will be lost. You might need to check with fluorescent dye penetrant to see the crack. Use of large gearbox sprockets, 22 teeth and greater, can result in excessive load on the gearbox shell if the bike is ridden hard.
If the shell is not cracked, two or three drops of a medium strength bearing retainer would help secure the bearing if it is not too loose a fit in the housing; i.e. more than a close sliding fit. If the casing needs to be heated to fit the bearing, then be careful that not too much retainer is used, as it can act like a shim and cause loss of bearing running clearance - that's from personal experience!
Andy
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Bearing wedges
Are the tool to use. Not too expensive, and can be used in many other places where this type of problem occurs. Doesn't damage the bearing either.
Regards, George
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engineering job
hello now to do this engineering job correctly you need to machine out the bearing housing recess to a set over size and then make a bronze insert to a interference fit and so you have a nice fit for a new bearing and I do not approve of pegging thats the lazy way and bad engineering Yours Anna J
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repairs
Now now Anna, common workshop practice to peg bearings and inserts. Triumph introduced Loctite on a dud batch of crankcases in the sixties. I use stud lock permanant, but you have to be quick. I have a Commando gearbox case that has cracked, so will machine out the bearing boss and turn up a new one and tig weld it in and re-machine the new bearing housing.
I have a Brand New old stock Norton gearbox unused somewhere I bought in 1972, I ought to use that soon before its too late!
I re-tooled a production line for Landrover in the mid nineties, what a lot of botched up tooling they had on the lines. No wonder spares don't fit. Used a lot of Loctite on that job too! I jig bored a piston assembly machine, and they couldn't believe every part fitted without fettling. I could not believe anyone expected it not to assemble without strain.
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In my experience it’s not uncommon for the mainshaft bearing to be a bit loose and loctite is sometimes used - nothing wrong with that so long as it is the right one. I’m not sure why anyone would loctite the sleeve gear to the bearing unless there is some serious wear? If it has been fitted with some of the high strength loctite you may need some serious heat to get it off, or you could try a press.
dan