Evening folks,
Managed to get out on my dom 99 deluxe at the weekend and within a few short miles I had engine oil leaks running down the left side cover.
The bike only had 430 m since a major rebuild about 12 yrs back, so before I start replacing gaskets do you think I should tighten down the head bolts?
I've read on here that they should be torqued up to 4 times following head removal?
Also had a bit of an on off front brake.
Thanks Paul
hello Paul - Which left side…
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Hi Howard this one, guessing…
Hi Howard this one, guessing it's the primary chain case right?
Leaked as per photo. Around the front of it.
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Probably leaking from the…
Probably leaking from the rocker spindle cover plates.
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Will this require nipping up…
Will this require nipping up or new gaskets, typically?
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front brake
wnat do you mean exactly about the brake?
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It sounds and feels like…
It sounds and feels like coming on and off constantly. Never had drum brakes before. There is a noise matching the feel sh sh sh sh sh sh kind of.
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Did you drain the sump…
Did you drain the sump before you rode it Paul ? Typically the sump can fill up when a bike has stood for a few months. When it gets too deep it can then drain through the drive-side crankcase oil seal and fill up the primary chaincase. Check your chaincase contents at the level plug (bottom rear). The sump may have emptied back into the oil tank during your ride but you can check by undoing the sump plug. Gaskets don't usually deteriorate when stood so if it was oil tight before then it's likely to be fine. With having the rebuild and only 500 miles since then it's always a good idea to check engine nuts and bolts. The head bolts need to be tightened in a set order so the fuel tank will need removing. Refer to the on-line copy of the Dominator Service Notes on the NOC website for these issues. Good luck, Howard
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Is that what these sump…
Is that what these sump plugs with the smaller bolt are for? Easy drain off.
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Your front brake sounds like…
Your front brake sounds like the drum might be oval. Oil leaks wise, get someone who is familiar with these bikes to give it a once over instead of diving in tightening/undoing/replacing stuff. You need to find out what is leaking first before taking remedial action. Have you got the required spanners/tools, Whitworth ones needed for a bike of this age (that is if the nuts & bolts haven't been swapped for metric/unf/unc)
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Oval drums after 430 miles?!…
Oval drums after 430 miles?!
Can they be straightened? Terminology probably way out.
Thanks
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Brake drums can suffer....
From too much bike washing and standing too long in one position. Water collects in the lowest part of the brake drum. Rust forms and you have a rusty area, bit higher than the rest.
Put up with the noise till the shoes wear the rust away.
As this is your first bike with drum front brake you will wonder how riders in the 60's ever managed. By being very defensive and looking for the ""BEWARE.. DISCS" stickers on the back window of cars so fitted.
It was fun...
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I am being VERY careful :)!!
I am being VERY careful :)!!
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Uneven finish to drum surface
If the machine has stood a while you will have two different surface finishes on the braking area of the drum. The exposed part where rust and dirt congregates, and then the "protected" surface which lays under the area of the brake shoes. Run the bike at slow speed and apply the brake, do not close the throttle. Now release the brake and continue riding. Then after a few yards re apply the brake. Is there a difference?
If not it may be a little drum alignment is needed. Slacken wheel spindle and pinch bolt, apply brake (hard) and hold lever on with zip tie or similar. Re-tighten wheel spindle/ pinch bolt and go through same ride procedure as above.
PINCH BOLT should not be over tightened. Pop a washer in the gap of the pinch tighten until you grip it then slacken enough to release then turn the bolt back to the position it was when it was tight against the washer.
if this hasn't cured it work through the other responses.
Jon
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thanks Jon (and everyone), I…
thanks Jon (and everyone), I'll try this trick first - I suspect and hope its some surface rust.
Hubs and wheels were replaced and the set up notes after reinstallation suggest the restorer spent a lot of time getting the brakes 'right'.
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Quite often...
... when the wheel is built and trued it pulls the drum out of round. There are places that can put the whole wheel in a lathe (some even with the tyre fitted) and true the drum.
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A good wheel builder, and i…
A good wheel builder, and i mean good. will take into account the drum trueness and keep it as round as possible. My friend did his 650 triumph wheels (Boriani rims fitted with the the incorrect spoke pattern) He corrected the spoke pattern and kept the drum round. He built the latest pair of commando wheels for me, did a spot on job. Has your Deluxe had new rims fitted? if so also check that the dimpling and the spoke pattern is correct for your hubs, Quite often i see spokes fitted that have a bend in them as the rim/dimple pattern/drilling is wrong. The worst example of this i've seen was a 350 Manx Norton front wheel that had half the spokes with an acute bend next to the nipple. Blatantly obvious that the rim was wrong, it would easily fail an MOT. Good job it was an ornament bike.
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Caution
Don't try riding with your brake on for very long, a newly built "tight" engine could easily seize.
The oil leaking onto your primary cover looks very dark, have you changed it yet since first running it? I change mine after the first 100 miles, then again at 500. Could be quite contaminated by now on a new motor.
Best regards Al.
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hello Paul - Which left side cover do you mean ? The left-hand side exhaust rocker cover, the left-hand side of the inlet rocker cover or the primary chain-case cover ? cheers, howard