Engine sprocket nut torque and tightening procedure.

I made a large peg spanner to hold the sprocket and use an old fork leg with a square welded to the end to suit a socket, then heave on the fork leg fairly hard. (I've never used a lock tab)
John Doig
 

I use a home made chain wrench to hold the sprocket, and a large ring spanner. Like John no tab washer. No torque wrench either.

... made of a bit of scrap alloy or mild steel with the edges rounded off. Like this:

Obviously this is for tightening - the same can be used for slackening but with the sprag pointing the other way. A much kinder way to ttreat your Norton rather than wedging things in the spokes.....

Hi Howard,

         to save any adverse strain on any part of the bike I tap the sprocket onto the main-shaft using an suitable size tube and hammer, remembering not to use excessive force. I then use a smear of Loctite on the threads and tighten the nut against compression with-out the chain with a ring spanner and then use a heavy hammer to clout the spanner several times to shock it tight. This may seem a little crude, but is no different to using a pneumatic hammer gun as used (to excess ?) on car wheel nuts. Electric versions of these are available and should be powerful enough for 80 ft/lbs. If the nut was to come loose I don't think a lock tab would be strong enough to stop it.

Interesting information also! Is it a left-hand thread to undo?

The gearbox sprocket nut and the oil pump worm are left-hand.

Splendid, thanks for that. I did think as much..

cheers

Can I ask is the band for keeping oil out of the clutch plates or holding it in for longer?

I think the band came in the thirties, possibly when the oil bath primary came in 1934. Not only on Nortons, other brands had it too. It disappeared in the fifties. Likely because it was useless.

Thanks so much, chaps. I was thinking the same.. I will always ensure that the oil is up to the level, hopefully without leaks.. :))))