Navigator centre stand issues

Hi Adrian,

If you have an early lightweight the lower rear engine mounting stud has a 3/8 cycle tread nut at one end, and a nut Part No. 21166 at the other end for the curved arm (C-bracket) to pivot on.

If you have a late lightweight the lower rear engine mounting stud has two nuts 24621 at each end. The curved arm (C-bracket) pivots on the right hand nut.

You can find both these nuts and photos of them on the NOC Shop listed under Lightweight spares miscellaneous. Or just put the part numbers in the NOC Shop search facility.

I have successfully brazed curvy piece (cut off a broken Electra stand) to a regular lightweight centre stand. Harder to find people with the gas welders willing to braze these days.

Or do you mean adding little curved rocker feet at the bottom of the legs?

Might be worth an email to NOC Spares to see when stand part No. 24862 will be available.

Peter

I mig welded some new feet onto the bottom of my stand, but that was because they were worn and the stand  didn’t lift the bike. If you add curved rockers you’ll need to be careful that they don’t hit the silencers. I have a badly bent and broken later stand with the long arm to help it on the stand, I intend to braze that onto my early stand. Might try mig welding it first.

Adrian, 

I successfully welded my ES2 Centre Stand with oxy acetylene. 

Used steel filler wire.

DON'T CHILL THE JOB with water. Let it return to normal temperature in the air.

The last photo is the 'catcher' for the brake pedal. I assume it is a safety feature to catch the brake pedal if the linkage to the back wheel comes apart and it stops the pedal hitting the ground and flipping the bike into the air! The 'catcher' should allow the brake pedal to be fully depressed in normal use but with enough gap to catch the pedal if it fails well before it hits the ground.

For what it is worth, my lift handle is bolted to the two threaded bars shown in your photo. I measured the distance between the two threaded bars and sourced a cast iron door handle from eBay for a few pounds (less than a fiver), drilled holes to fit over the threads and used the original nuts to hold the handle on. I have longer bolts on the shock mounts because they also hold on the mudguard stays (non-original, aluminium mud guards). The original shock bolts may not be long enough for this mod. I also wrapped the lift handle with a black squash racquet grip for comfort.

Dennis

Adrian,

i think you need to work on the colour match ;-) !!    What does it look like when the stand is up and more importantly does it work?!

cheers

dan 

Hi. Adrian, and all of you

The original bracket is a thin curved stamping that has almost a semi-circular end to hold the pedal, it also can be tilted to adjust the level of the pedal.

Wishing you all a HAPPY CHRISTMAS and NEW YEAR.

                                                                  Peter

I certainly fitted mine as Bruce did, otherwise the brake pedal is at some inconvenient posiion relative to your foot when you need it.

Hello Adrian,

I found a picture of the brake pedal stop when I reassembled my Navigator:

Looks like I was wrong. I will try fitting the bracket as a pedal stop. However, a 'pedal catcher' might be a good idea. If the brake adjuster wing nut comes undone the pedal will drop and dig into the ground with who knows what effect! I am a belt and braces man so I have put a nyloc nut after the brake rod wing nut to stop it coming off unannounced :-)

Every day is a learning day with a Norton.

Happy New Year.

Dennis

... a locknut on the rear brake roid to avoid the adjuster coming loose (although it shouldn't as the indent should keep it in place).

I made an adjustable pedal stop for the FB which has a similar setup to yours as I like the controls to fall readily to hand and foot.

Nice.