Norton International eguipment

Your seat looks to me as good as you are likely to get. The rubber saddle was favoured but is currently not being made. Someone will comment but I believe it will be on the market again some time in the near future. The 'Rexine' cover material on pre war machines is no longer made (you might find it on vintage Bentley web sites at a surprising price...)

Your silencer needs more support. A rod at the rear and do you have some bolts sideways to fit those holes? Are lights required by law where you live? Otherwise it's much the same as the WD 16H and other touring Nortons. Or LED cycle lamps...

Tomas; good to see another intersting cammy Norton coming on the road. Lucas were the preferred supplier to Norton.

Before you get to those items I see some items of safety that you need to check.  
Front brake, looks like it’s locked on.  The cable is slack and lever out of position.  The torque rod top connection looks odd check out pictures of similar age machines.

Rear brake adjust nut, on the end of threaded rod but also the lever is acting on the outer rim of the adjuster. The adjuster nut should have a scalloped nose on it to push in the right position.

David’s point about the exhaust...  they are heavy, hot and will do big damage if it comes adrift.

As David said the Inter was adorned with the same electricals as most of the range. An 8” headlamp of Indian manufacture can come for €80_90 , Rear light around €40

Mag/ Dyno, Lucas MO1.

Study pictures of the year and models you are building it to represent and you will find many reproductions or used items out there.  Choose what you are looking for and see what I can help with. 

 You have plenty to be going on with but come back with where you are starting and we can work through it.

Where are you based? 

Nice motor...

Jon

The front brake torque arm was not used by Norton.  They used a lug fitting a pair of matching lugs inside the forks. Your torque arm appears to be fitted into the speedometer drive boss. The top connection does not look very pretty...

A correct speedometer will be a challenge. Meanwhile I use a cycle one. One I tried didn't work with a magneto, but another cheap wired one does.

I see you have lugs for a toolbox. Handy but the only ones around are Indian for WD16H. To be correct those need to be narrower...about 3.5" not 5". Also the latch is not correct. Better than nothing if you do not like wearing a rucksack.

The proper wingnut for the back brake is not available.  NOC sold my mine, but it us for later bikes. Originally the prewar Nortons had a strange 7/32" thread. So you'll probably have to stay with the round adjuster. It need the proper backing piece as Jon has said. I bought one from Russell Motors some years ago but it can easily be made from round steel bar.

What is that lever on the back upper stay?

Is it 350 or 500? It looks like a 500, but the cam bevel is fully exposed like a 350.  The front of the tank is lifted a bit on spacers. Jon...is that at the correct height? 

The seat springs on mine sit on upright pillars. I know they changed to sideways lugs like yours on 16H in 1936. I didn't know they made the same change on the Inter. (Never noticed before).

Thanks for posting the picture. It looks good...hope it all goes well.

The frame looks to me to be a post war mod 18 or 16h sideways facing saddle fixings and the tool box lower bracket that the silencer is fitted to

There are a few mixtures in here but it’s getting towards complete.I just wanted to point out the safety issues.  The tool box will be handy as it looks like a wrap around tank and you need battery space. Centre feed cam shaft too.  Lots of good stuff but Tomas, tell us what your next job is and we can focus on that.

I've got a rear lamp you can have, I’d get a solid state regulator and either make your own loom or speak to Al about it.

A way to go but it will be worth it

Jon

Mag turns clockwise viewed from contact breaker end.

My previous owner made up the silencer bracket. One triangular plate fixed to the box. Then a short flat plate with two bolt holes to connect to the frame lug through a short spacer tube (25mm maybe?). The bolts in the short flat plate both have two nuts locked against each other so it can move just a little to take vibration and expansion. All dimensions to fit your frame and silencer. Other options are possible! Someone might even know what they were like originally.

The civilian pattern changed for almost every production year...top or bottom hinging and small changes to the locks etc. The military pattern was originally the same depth, but had a simplified lock. However, the army toolkit requirements meant that a deeper larger capacity version was introduced. Initially, this was simply a spacer strip between the two halves. Later, the press tooling was improved. Any pre-war or wartime toolbox will fit and can be used with the standard kick-starter.

Jiri of 'Vintage Replica's parts are very good. Not inexpensive,  but that reflects the care and quality.

The Inter was really designed as a race bike but of course prosperous motorcyclists wanted to use them on the road. Have you checked "vintagenorton" web site? It has downloads of factory publicity, manuals etc.  Most of the "tinware" for roadgoing Inters was the same as for the rest of the range (including the standard silencers sold with road going bikes). Chain cases may well be different. Norton seem to have made lots of variations. Others might perhaps be made to fit.

I chopped the width of an Indian toolbox to fit it. My bike has no toolbox lugs so I made my own brackets. The correct (or reasonably correct looking) latch came from an old English suitcase.

Good luck. I hope it goes as well as it looks.  The 350 is said to have less vibration and it also shows off the engine a bit better than the 500.  One of my friends has a 350...he posts here sometimes...he has a lot more experience of Inters than I, and he does a lot of miles on his.

Hi Tomas,

Attached photos list the Lucas equipment for 1936-57 Internationals. Send me a message if you would like scans of the illustrations.

Comes with the switch for around £80 (Kc 2,390).  I have a rear light and a battery holder you can have, providing the EU doesn't interfere with its transfer into the state.Rear number plate is a fairly simple cut and fold.  Wiring loom again a bare minimum of lights, charging, possibly horn, will be easy to make up Solid state Voltage regulator.   Your tool box would be handy to hold the battery if that is a wrap around "Manx Spec" tank.

 Let me know by PM if you want the parts sending.

Jon