norton dominator

David:

Since this website gets worldwide distribution, we will need your location to be able to recommend a local service company.

There are, of course, service companies as shown in the back of the Roadholder.

Any of those shown close to you?

Mike

I put 750 commando rods in my dommie as I had a rod break years ago. On the low pressure system you have to turn the conrod round the wrong way so big end oil feed is blocked off. these rods are much stronger

Commando Rods can be used on the 650and Atlas ,but to fit them to the Alternator 88/99  you also need a 650 crank and the case cutting and welding ,unless you have  one of the almost mythical "bulge" cases that might just have been fitted to some of the last of the 88/99 series.  Alloy rims were not listed for your year bike but were availiable from dealers and wheel builders , They were listed in later years aparently.

No alloy rims were listed in my original 1959, 1960 and 1961/62 Parts lists.  My 1960 list is the "Supplementary Spare Parts List"  Publication PS 208, on which it says "N.B. PARTS NOT LISTED HERE WILL BE FOUND IN THE 1959 SPARE PARTS LIST FOR MODELS 88, 99, ES2 and 50 (Publication PS 206).  This seems to mean that no full parts list was published for 1960 models.

Out of interest, HC pistons, twin carbs (not for De Luxe models), front and rear crash bars, air cleaners, chrome mudguards and single seats are listed in the "Optional Equipment" section at the back.  My 1959 Wideline 99 originally had twin carbs, front & rear crash bars, HC pistons and chrome mudguards ex-works as a "Special" for the customer - which was Taylor Matterson.  I confirmed this with John Hudson in 1965!

I have a problem ,oil from the oil tank is entering the crankcase when stood for a few days! Can anyone please advise obvious things to check first. I’m assuming for the time being as the pump in the first instance is gravity fed that may be the item to check. Thanks in advance Mike
Ps I live near York UK

I see you are new to the club and obviously finding your way around the website. If you put "wet sumping" into the search box at the top of the page, you will find plenty of info to help/confuse you but yes, the pump or it`s gasket are usually the culprits but a new or rebuilt pump isn`t always a guarantee of success. Best start a new topic thread if you need any more specific help.

Best of luck, Al.

I believe that the only way that oil can enter the crankcase, when the bike is standing, is through the oil pump.  The ONLY proper way to cure the problem is to refurbish the oil pump.  But, even a new pump will leak through given enough time.

  Some people put a valve in the oil line from the oil tank but, this is fraught with disaster when you forget to open the valve before you go for a ride.

There have been various tricks for you to ensure that the valve is open before starting.  I believe that the best trick is to make a valve that you have to use your ignition key to open.  When the valve is turned closed, the key that you used cannot be withdrawn.

Do a search here.  I believe that you will find a number of postings re: the same question and fix.

 Good Luck

Mike

Mike,  What about taking out he sump plug and capturing what oil is gathering there.  Initially oil  from the surrounding internals will gravitate to the sump so you will always have some in there.  If you release it to a measuring jug (ask her who cooks first) and see what you get on repeated 24hr period.  It will indicate if its a daily loss through the pump or natural drain down that tapers off day on day.

While your experimenting leaving the motor on compression stroke will reduce the flow if its a  marginal issue.

Good luck

J