Monoblock games

Hi David.  Not been terribly impressed with new bits. The carb shows little wear ,so not prepared to give in ---yet. Will be giving it some mileage over the weekend . 

Hi Anna, Over the years I have collected plenty of 376 slides .a whole set,plus a few customised ones. I also have a few carbs including Dellortos ,pumpers and SSI racing ( TT type) .I have recently aquired a brand new   Bowden sports carb in its orriginal box with full instructions and spare floats and jets ! can't imagine thats ever going to happen again. Wonder what it was for?. I also have the Amal book , but would like the book for the 1930's onwards. .Hi Peter,I have played with the fuel level and have some machined float valve bodies that give different fuel levels. but the orriginal one works best. I think the 106 should have air bleeds. Where does it say different?.

Hi Jon,  A kind offer,  Things were running reliably for years, but always a bit rich and dirty ,plugs would soot up ,oil got carboned up a bit too quick. ,but it would ride well. Then I decided to fit some new bits--------. All went downhill from there. Its managing to run rich and weak at the same time.  To add to the fog , I was experimenting with increasing the oil feed to the head which always seemed dry and noisy. Its a balancing act  ,very easy to get too much oil and find  the ignition suffers. I have that sorted now with a customised tank union and a series of tiny adjustments to the tank return flow. What did not help was my local Esso garage where I bought my High grade non ethanol fuel would sometimes cheat and  fill the pump tank with EO 15 or 20 (  Carelessly slosh mixed EO5 !!) and that runs very weak in comparison. I have in the past envoked the weights and measures legislation and got a conviction for short supply for a garage and watered down Vodka for a pub !!, but fiddling is now endemic and no one is interested. Going for a run today armed with spare slides .Also need to burn off half a tank of god knows what it is and get some PETROL. (if I can find it).

Had my  50 mile run,  a stop before a mile to take the tank/saddle off and drop the needle a notch.  Runs now as well as a normal 99 could be expected. However thats a major dissapointment as in the past  half throttle whisked me up to 80 with plenty to spare ,now although its making all the right noises ,I'm not convinced, the zip has gone. May wait untill I can fill up with the right stuff.Then go for plug chops or a dyno test. Serves me right for running out of petrol and having to fill up with FAKE stuff !!. The tiger has left the tank.

Hi Ian/Alan,  I have fine wire plugs one grade hotter but after a Dieseling session and very blue pipes I dare not go hotter. Also noticed a few ally flakes on the plug , Just dodged a bullet there!!. Perhaps a move to the IOM  (no eth at all) will bring biking heaven.

Worked on the bike yesterday,after being a bit disgruntled with the lack of zip. Pulled the slide from the monoblock and found the return spring wedged to one side and tight to the body. So probably not getting on the throttle as normal.    Must be old age.  Grumpy old git.

My overheated running on was caused by weak mixture on the needle jet  (a new 106T ,, whatever the T means)  ,Went back to a used 106 ,measured and found to be the least worn ,probably equating to a 1065 +, No spitting back but very sooty plugs and hunts a bit. Will go back a notch on the needle next.  I'm getting really quick on taking tank off now . The Gunsons Colourtune shows the pilot needs to be 3+ turns out  so the pilot is either too big or fuel level too high.  Think I will wait till I get a tank of  new Esso  before I do anything . That seems to run richer than EO5 .Don't want to have to start all over again.

I notice that a number of suppliers are selling the Amal  106T  needle jet  ,sometimes described as 106   T style  .  and purporting that they are for a range of different machines . Looking thro the Amal books  it would appear that it was only specified for a couple of odd machines.  I dont know what the "T" stands for except that the one I was supplied  had no air bleeds .I am suspicious that it is also machined differently on the inside. Does anyone know more?.