Hi, I bought a collection of Norton stuff on Evil Bay in 2017 & have just got round to looking at it properly! On one 99 engine, the Crankcase number has, (because I now know a little more, a little knowledge is a dangerous thing), been re-stamped in non- Bracebridge Street font! Is there any way of identifying the cases from Internal numbers or "X" ray scan technology?
I am trying to be positive as a Life-long motorcycle enthusiast, BSA, Honda, Kawasaki 70s & 80s , BMW 2000s, now innocently sucked in, (lack of research on my part), to the now often seemingly "dodgy" world of Evil Bay and 21st century, Classic bike Ownership!
Any suggestions appreciated!
Photo shows I believe authentic stamping of Engine type, Engine number not so
Cheers
John H
The image you've shown seems…
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Engine number
The engine number that you have shown is the Engine Shop number, so your 99, must have been the 49th one built. I saw a 1958 500 Norton Nomad on Ebay, once and it had a 132*** Commando number stamped on it. If you contact the NOC twins records officer, he can look through the factory dispatch records, for your 99 49 Engine Shop number, and find out exactly what your engine number should be, as well as to who and where it was dispatched to.
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As you say - it doesn't look…
As you say - it doesn't look good. The engine number was assigned to a late 1955 600cc Model 99. The engine number would have had the Code L14 somewhere around the Patents badge. The actual number will have been approx 15000 units earlier than the number now shown - 79761. I would be inclined to look for a more complete and useable set of cases. Have a look at your frame gearbox etc and decide what you want your Norton to be. If you decide on one of the first Model 99's with dynamo, Burman type gearbox and clutch etc then you should find suitable replacements. It your frame is from a later period with alternator, AMC gearbox and clutch etc then buy to suit that choice. Have fun and be careful buying from e-bay. Cheers, howard
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Barrel and cases. look…
Barrel and cases. look alternator type to me likely from 59 to 62 ish. Is it registered ? Could be stolen or unmatched case halves. Could work ok but may be a problem getting it registered. What frame do you have.?.
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Frame
Some electronic correspondence was eventually passed over to me, after I bought it and found out that it the frame had never been registered in the UK! Again someone had tried to alter the Model designation code, to a 14, but it has a 1 and more+ of a cross stamped on it, it should be an 18 of course.
From Dave Catton to previous owner "The frame you have with number 101690 is from a 650SS and dates from 22nd February 1962. The machine with this frame number did go to Hamburg when new. Someone has tried to make them a matching pair by stamping the frame number on the side of the crankcase. This is the wrong place for the engine number.
The number that is in the correct place 79701 is from a Dominator 99 and dates from 22nd October 1958, but the Shop No. you sent me does not equate to this engine number. This engine went new to a UK dealer.
The Shop No. 99C 49 dates it from 5th September 1957 and obviously has a different engine number!
John
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A little knowledge.
If you just register it with the number it now has, I doubt if there would be any problems. But now you know a bit about it, it has become something to worry about. Pity you cannot register (or try to register) it before spending time restoring it just to protect from the remote possibility that anyone at DVLA knows or cares about Norton's numbering system. After all...we can retain the registration on a pile of parts that used to be a bike, but not as far as I know vice versa.
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Sounds possible that they…
Sounds possible that they are matched case halves, Made in late 57 and would have been logged as a 58 model, normal practise for Norton. So you can build a 99 engined 650ss . Must have been one of the early coil ignition Dommies .What type of head do you have?.
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Head N' stuff
22707 Y with a twin Manifold, what does the "Y" stand for? I have the bottom end of an earlier Norton Dominator with a Lay-down gearbox, 70605, 14M 99, 2141 with the different casting at the front of the right-hand crankcase a non-coil engine K133 stamped inside the Timing side, this stuff came from the Manchester region!
Plus some 99 C crankcases 92148 14R, 99 C 6181, it is, just the complete engine that has the dodgy stampings!
Cheers
John
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If its important to you to…
If its important to you to have an engine with its original stampings then you could switch cases with the other 99c set. A fair amount of work ,especially if your assembled motor is in good nick. Having said that I cannot imagine fitting any motor until I stripped it completely and checked all out.
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Yes, you are right, but I…
Yes, you are right, but I could either go with the earlier non-coil 99, magneto design, or a coil ignited 99 has one system got any big advantage over the other?
The engine is the heart of any automobile a strong engine is a good start, more important than blinging the bike up, in my opinion, initially anyway!
How bad are the 6 volt lights? If inadequate, perhaps a 12 volt set up!
Paint powder coat stripping 3 days n' nearly finishes!
Cheers
John
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6 volts or 12 volts?
Hi John, If your'e starting from scratch you may as well go for 12 volts as you will need a new alternator, stator and regulator anyway. If, like me, you already have a lot of 6V kit, it's OK to stay with 6V. I found it fine touring the very dark roads of Devon & Cornwall in the 1960s and you can upgrade headlamp bulbs to halogen - much brighter than we had then. There are also LED bulbs, but they are expensive and might need charging modifications - ask Al Oz about that.
Mine is a 1959 99 "Special" (According to John Hudson when I wrote to the factory in the early 1960s) which I bought in 1965. It had almost all the optional extras (from the red typed pages at the back of the 1959 Spares List) including twin carbs, HC pistons, larger inlet valves & chrome mudguards. It had coil ignition which gave problems, so I swapped it out with my old K2F Magneto from my 1955 88 - by then sold and partly scrapped. I intend to put the coil/distributor ignition back to keep it authentic for Concours but will keep the mag handy just in case!
I would definitely stick with the 99 engine rather than got down the 650 route which may bring further problems.
Good luck, stay safe and please keep us posted.
Lionel
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6 or 12 volts.
Yes LEDs can be expensive, around £40 if obtained from someone called Goff on the i/net, look elswhere though and you'll get a PAIR of identical bulbs for under £20 I think they're called Night Eye. A question I don't know the answer to. Are LEDs compatible to 6 volt?
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LEDs.
Hello John Hall, no not the wrong thread, just trying in some way to answer a question at the beginning of this thread. But, as is the case more often than not, the thread has gone way off course and the current answers seem to bear no relationship whatsoever to the original question . Goff or Goffy, I don't know the fellows Christian name, I just know he deals in m/cycle ware on the internet. It's just that someone in the early part of the thread suggested using LEDs, hence my answer and also my question.
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Looks like a nice straight…
Looks like a nice straight frame. Worth a few basic checks with straight edges and string lines before painting. The early engine will need a dynamo and mag and really should be in a wideline ,so I would build another bike !, The 99c motor could run a dissy or mag and 12v Alternator , And look like an early 99SS if that's your style. I would buy a 650 crank and rods ,mix with what you have ,(modify a case for more room) and build a 650 with a bit more reliability than the 99. All to his own.
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MODEL 99
Hello john now the Model 99 started life in September 1955 and shop number would have ran from there on , until september 1957 when the alternator cases where made and a new set of shop numbers came out for the alternator cases So the ones you have with the 49 shop number on it is the correct shop number but the rest are fake numbers as the stamp sizes are wrong for Bracebridge street, So now you need to write to the heavy twin's officer with your details And I would not go down the 650 route using barrels from a 600 and cases as these items are not designed for a 650 and these cases are early alternator and therefore will not take a 650 crankshaft So now these are my thoughts And I believe I am not far wrong, yours anna j
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Naughty Numbers
Hi John.......I can add a litle more information to your numbers game.
22707Y ......... the 'Y' informs that this Norton cylinder head was produced by one of around six different casting sections in the foundry. Each used a letter to help ID their products. Other letters included M, N, K etc.
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Let's hope "Y2 was the best casting section!
Hi, Phil, thanks! I didn't make Ardingly, sadly, last autumn as I was working till late on the Saturday before! If I had a crystal ball I would have got out of bed because, now @ the moment "meets" aren't an option! i hope you are keeping well and look forward to a future chat @ some gathering or other!
After some stiff resistance, Anna has resigned herself to the fact that the metamorphosis of the bike bits into a usable machine will not be the requisite, technically correct frame and tin ware colour! I have Christened the bike as a a new Model "The Norton "Renegade" n' it will probably be in a shade of polychromatic blue! There will be some gnashing of teeth possibly, but needs must and these days there are plenty Factory replica's out there and I don't want the bike for investment potential or destined as a museum piece! My primary objective is to build it and ride it and it not blow up on me!
My 87 Kawasaki 398 cc four, still regularly sees 12,500 rpm on occasion n' I would expect the "Renegade" to perform within it's capabilities, once constructed, within reason 4,000 rpm plus?
Dreams......
Cheers
John H
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Whether to go for alternator…
Whether to go for alternator or dynamo depends on which crankshaft you have.
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If you want to explore the…
If you want to explore the Rev range and give it some, you should consider some aftermarket rods or look into the 650 route where new rods are about although not cheap.Alternatively you could gather some more "bits" for a 99c so if a big bang occurs you are prepared.
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Battle of the Bulge!
Anna, I have Atlas cases with the required bulge!
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The Atlas cases could be a…
The Atlas cases could be a basis of a good strong engine, The problem is that little appart from the timing gear,cover,oil pump, Dissy/mag and cam nothing from the other motors can fit. It is possible to build a 650 in the 99 cases ,but that needs a little cutting and welding.Might be usefull if you give us a full list of what you have .
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Bits-A n' stuff!
Hi Robert,
Deep in the Cavern
Two sets of 99 C cases;
Almost complete 99 tin ware, Wheels, Roadholders, headlamp, mudguards, rear suspension, fittings! Stands Primary cover inner outer, footrests, alternator/stator/ Dizzy, lots of nuts, bolts and old fixings and fittings! Seat, Cafe Racer X 2, Dual x 1!
Numerous back light Lenses, Britax, Lucas, & 7 inch chrome headlight, BSA Trumph type
Some Norton hubs and numerous brake plates pre *& Post 1956, was this when they changed?
3 x sets of Norton engine gearbox plates
Dominator 2 x Slim-line petrol tanks, one an ex-Police bike tank, ready for fabricating into a longer bigger tank;
A Norton Commando Police bike tank, don't ask me, but very good nick!
1962 650 SS Frame, swing arm, rear shocks
One set 99 non-coil cases, with crankshaft & Lay-down gearbox; Long-Roadholders!
99 C engine mis-stamped;
Reworked and Repaired 1960 Norton 99 special. frame, crafted swing arm. new RGM, Roadholders, 7 inch yokes, new Jones Alloy 19 inch wheels; Excellent NJB shocks! Replica 1930s Norton 7/8ths Race bars. Rear-sets almost....
930 cc Imp engine
875 cc Imp engine,
BSA Twin Leading shoe conical hub type, if Norton brakes prove too prone to leading to a "Death-wish" situation, conversion can be done!
A Mark one AMC gearbox, * Norton -Imp Project;
A set of 16 alloy Norton hubbed wheels for bike with a sidecar!
Street scrambler project, Ummhh!
Early Atlas engine and good head, Atlas dished pistons, crank out of balance, two sets of Atlas big-ends, strong and weak as Les Emery puts it, push rods, new valves;
BSA Firebird Scrambler frame; Norton engine and gearbox won't fit in it!. I would need a pre-unit BSA frame maybe a Gold star frame!
No clutches, no Chronometric's, no wiring looms;
3 X Kawsakis, 2 x BMWs and a Partridge in a pear tree!
Youngest bike 1991 K75S!
Maybe I should set up a swap shop!
John H
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atlas cases
Hello john sorry but Atlas cases will not make 650 as barrel mounting studs are set farther back and are reduced studs So that will not work right I would stick with the 99 motor as it is after all its the frame that's registered not the motor ,that motor as.not been touched in years and the chances are it maybe fine inside and may only need a good clean and a change of bearings as a.matter of course, and then a rebuild and timing before fitting the head the head will need a good clean and a good look over and new bronze guides as old cast one have a habit of giving up the ghost and breaking and doing damage to the head and you then do a small amount of porting as you just may get that extra 5bhp if every thing is set up right now have fun and stay tuned your Anna j
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Enough to be going on with…
Enough to be going on with then!. Seems to me that you can build a servicable 99 that will be Ok for normal restrained classic use but need some new rods if you intend to ring its neck. Or an Atlas that with the right gearing and some balance work will provide a beefy classic for chuntering about. Neither are really up to high speed long distance stuff compared to modern machinery. An Imp featherbed four seems a prospect too. Surprise us!, Build all three.
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Robert an old Racing friend…
Robert an old Racing friend of Mine , English (Mad Mitch), Dave Mitchell 82 ish, rode a Speed Twin with Jerry cans strapped to it across the Australian desert, for 18 1/2 hours ,it took 21 hours with stops and the petrol stations were often 350 miles from one another; to get to a ship, before his sweetheart sailed back to England, to give her a kiss & cuddle!
So how did they do it if the bikes were that fragile? Or were Triumphs better than Norton's?
John
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The alloy rods apparently…
The alloy rods apparently have a finite life and suffer from fatigue, as we have no way of telling what they have been through its a bit like Russian roulette. My own 99 has done some 40000 miles and at some time had a partial seizure. I also think the big ends are a thou or so oval.I try to restrict the revs but on occasion hit 80 mph . probably playing with fire now. I would rather use new forged Norton Rods so the best route seems to be convert to a 650 crank (with case and barrel skirt mods). The 99 barrel is in perfect nick at +10 and 650 pistons and the 99 head and the rest can stay. If I want to go mad I have other rides availiable to me.
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"New Norton Forged Rods"?
Hi Robert, where can we get these from? I'm guessing they would only be for later bikes 650cc & 750cc?
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Hi Lionnel ,Yes , I have not…
Hi Lionnel ,Yes , I have not looked into it yet,but I have the assumption that 750 Commando rods would fit.
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What to do now?
What a toodo, I would, horror of horrors, put a Triumph lump in it! You have all the rest for a cafe racer. I have a similar problem with an Atlas. I also have some Triumph engines as well, and parts are easier to find. Better still, stick a Suzuki GS1000 engine in it, also front forks and wheel. It could then be the new Norton Dommy Garner almost made. Just taking it a bit. If one were to use the Dommy motor, it would be wise to split the crankcases and check it measures correctly to drawing. I have had to do that with a welded up Commando 850 engine on my production line. I found it 10 thou out of shape, not bad for a weld job!
Hope you get it sorted John. Best regards, Paul
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Suzuki Triumph?
Sacre Bleu! Triumph, Suzuki, Paul! The " Mark of the Beast" is upon you!
What evil thoughts and ideas you send my way!
Speak to you soon!
John
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Thank you Lionel, I will…
Thank you Lionel, I will consider a 12 volt option, I can't yet get to the bottom, so to speak of the 99's supposedly fragility, compared the 88's and the 650s! Is /was the 99 that stressed, in it's inception, is an upgraded oil pump necessary, or separate filtration? Is it because dry sump lubrication starves the engine of oil initially?
According to forces and stresses long-stroke engines bump up the forces, 88/72.5 mm, 99/ 82 mm, 650/89 mm!
Quote the Motorcycle" The newcomer gave a main impression of superb acceleration from a standing start up to about 80mph,’ said The Motor Cycle. ‘It was particularly satisfying to note the increased power output derived from the larger capacity engine had not been employed purely in the interest of higher maximum speed. Rather it was evident in the way the machine could sustain high cruising speeds… between 75 and 85mph the engine produced its power in smooth and tireless fashion.’
By 1956 Norton had been building parallel twins for 8 years or more, surely the 99 should not be that fragile, plus taking into effect as Robert states Aluminium alloy fatigue, these days con-rods I believe can be X-rayed. Plus it is rumoured that the last time the engine ran was 40 plus years ago, a good thing less wear, a bad thing engines like to be used!
I spoke to an older friend who had quite a few of British bikes, including brand new ones a BSA Lightning n' our products put him off so much that when he saw the first Honda Gold Wing at it's launch 1975, he then ordered one and has been riding "Jap crap" ever since! He considered most problems were down to idiots not changing the oil, frequently enough, that in the main con-rods breaking through race activity, normal wear should be taken care of by big-end shells. Perhaps inadequate filtration didn't help! Somebody I know has an Imp engine in a bike since 1965 998 cc Rallye engine, that has done over 200,000 miles without a major strip down! Plus it is rumoured that the last time the complete engine I bought ran was 40 plus years ago, a good thing less wear, a bad thing engines like to be used! A Car type oil-filtration systems do undoubtedly help as do modern oils.
Why hasn't anyone looks into new con-rod manufacture?
John H
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Horses for courses.
When I set out to completely restore and rebuild my 1959 '99' (Wideline) I started by making a specification of what I wanted it to be. It was a "99 Special", with the optional polished head, large inlet valves, HC pistons, twin carbs, chrome mudguards and fully enclosed rear chaincase. As it had been neglected for 37 years, it was a touch rusty here and there (!) so the only way was up. I wanted it to look like new, as "patina" finish wasn't possible or desirable. I opted to go for Concours. ("Concours d'élégance" to give its full, correct name)
At my age (mid-70s) twin carbs and HC pistons aren't particularly desirable. I want a "touring" spec, not a "boy racer" bike, so standard pistons and single carb is my choice. As the twin carbs were an optional extra it won't break the "Concours" definition. This is fine for the legal speed limits, although in 1965 I was able to wind it round the clock with an indicated 120mph! (About 70mph in real terms eh? LOL!) Osteo arthritis is also a consideration in not going for HC pistons with a kickstart! Ditto twin carbs with twin throttle cables/springs for the wrist to manage. Twin carbs only give a marginal increase in performance anyway. I will be using a 21T engine sprocket rather than the recommended 20T for the "Special" spec. Expecting any bike (or car) over 60 years old to be a rubber-burner is unrealistic so I would avoid thrashing anything that old (Including me!)
I think the 99 engine's reputation for breaking is largely anecdotal as, like you, I can't really see any particular reason for it. With most vehicles, oil changes are absolutely critical and I would place blame squarely on the lack of maintenance in this area. This is generally the cause of smoky exhausts in cars less than 10 years old. I once owned a Mk.3 Ford Granada 2.9 litre V6 which had done more than 200,000 miles by the time I gave it away to a friend! It never used any oil or smoked as scheduled oil changes were at 6,000 miles! I only include petrol engines as I have no interest in diesels. I have had a lot of experience with Jaguar XK engines (Straight 6 cylinders), which are sensitive to oil changes at correct intervals. With the 99 there is no need to get a 6-start oil pump and it may actually be detrimental. Just make sure you get the pump gear clearances sorted and the end plate smooth-faced. Turning it over seems to be the simplest way, so the grooves worn by the gears are on the outside.
When I bought mine from Pride & Clarke, it had been de-tuned with only one carb sitting on a single carb manifold with the original long inlet manifold studs botched with nuts as packing! It had been converted to use with a chair and run into the ground - in less than 6 years! The twin carbs in those days weren't handed. Both carbs were the same, as the chopped-float type came out later. In the "Optional Equipment" section of the 1959 Parts List, the standard carbs are Part No. 22113. The twin inlet manifold was splayed to take the two carbs with full float chambers.
It might be worth getting the conrods X-Rayed if their mileage history is unknown. (Metal Fatigue is mainly stress/mileage related). Definitely, if you want to take it to its limit of performance or if the big-end caps are oval. In any case it's worth polishing the conrods to a chrome-like finish and get rid of any nicks or deep scratches so they don't propagate.
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The 88 motor with its…
The 88 motor with its shorter stroke ran smoother than a 99 so it was revved higher and more often . It did not unduly suffer broken rods unless the crank got filled with crap or the drive side piston overheated and seized or the lubrication failed for some other reason and then the drive side was often the failure point. The longer stroke 99 put more strain on the rods but "in the day" was not an unreliable motor. Interestingly the rod blank was the same as used in BSA twins .They did not seem to suffer breakages but the usage and other design differences could be a factor.The twin motors I have worked on have ALL suffered a seizure on the drive side at some time, must have strained things a bit. I have heard that steel rods do not suffer from age, but alloy does.So a very long period of "rest" is a mixed blessing perhaps.There are a number of club members who have had Norton rods wreck an engine with no obvious reason. Not happened to me yet. Fingers crossed.On the lookout for a 650 crank and rods !.
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Thanks Lionel, I typed a…
Thanks Lionel, I typed a reply and it disappeared when the Internet went down!
So will catch up later today, after some shed building activity!
John
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History
For those of you interested in the development of the Dominator.........John Hudson told me that when the Factory began to put together engines for racing (Daytona Bikes), in the 1950s, they began to experience failures in several areas once 7000rpm was being exceeded. This included broken conrods, crankpins and pistons. The conrod and crankpin failure problem led the development team to investigate enlarged crankpin diameters of 1.60" and even up to 1.75". At one point they even purchased and fitted Triumph conrods in an attempt to get better reliability.
Crankshafts with 1.75" crankpins were tested on some of the Nomad 500cc machines and also used on the later TT racing engines along with a reduced diameter bore of the pin centres. The latter modification carried over to the production engines along with a better finish to the pin itself, especially at each corner section where it meets the flanges.
In the 1960s Gus Kuhn organised the manufacture of around 50 short stroke Norton 500cc twin engines for racing. These basically had 650 crankcases and cylinder heads, seriously shortened 650 barrels (with 7 fins) and a modified 500 crankshaft.. Apparently they were not a great success. Wonder if any are still around???
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I used 7000 as the change…
I used 7000 as the change point with my 88 for many years ,this was also the point that the standard valve springs began to loose track of the SS cam , possibly why it was never a problem on shortish runs. I did however seize the motor at over 90 mph after a flat out run from Keswick to London. Lubrication failure. I experienced super braking from high speed for the first time ever!.Even then the rod did not break,but the motor never regained its ability to keep alongside a proper 99SS in a drag race. Sold it and bought a supercharged 998 frogeye.
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Domin_ator
Look, just having a lunch break, bough the book Dominator by Mick Walker and to my surprise it's signed inside by the man himself!
Interesting information thanks Phil & Robert and Lionel
Now my aim is for the Dominator to be sturdy and live up to it's name, otherwise I woild have gone down a Super-charged Raleigh Wisp route!
I know about Rpm and a short stroke, my 398 cc 4 cylinder Kawasaki has a 40.4 mm stoke, same as a Honda 50. 99.5 cc per cylinder and really the dimensions are except shorter stroke and bigger bore, akin to the BRM 16 cylinder 1.5 Litre era machines, except that was 93 cc per cylinder, supercharged and cost a Zillion £££'s in Sterling and proved to be often unreliable!
The little four rarely is below 5,000 rpm and spends most of the time between 6-10 thousand, 54 bhp 110 mph in good conditions so I have been told. Similar to an SS or 650 twin but gets there a lot quicker! My old mate had a Japanese I think the model designation was CBR 250 RR, four tiny cylinders 18.000 red-line n' would safely rev to 22,000 he said it was quicker than the NC 30, 399cc V four he has now!
Anyhow back to Dominator's and low rev's....
John
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Seizing The Siege
I need somebody to explain to me why it is 'i' bfore 'e' in siege but not in seize.
Many years ago Peter Williams mentioned the amazing amount of distortion a crankshaft went through when changing gear at high revs. He also said that people do not realise the damage done to a crankshaft following a bad seizure. This damage not being visibly obvious but enough to cause replacement main bearings to fail very quickly and the crankpins to be no longer aligned. Thus affecting the ignition timing.
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Construction Forging and consequent destruction
Phil, my theory is as far as physics and energy and fabrication is concerned whether forging and smelting crankshafts or swords, the energy you put in must be surpassed for anything to break, whether this is through force or a change in vibrational frequency it doesn't matter, the end effect is the destruction of the product of manufacture!
Funnily enough Quantum physics is now starting to agree with what "Mystics" have said for 1,000s of years about the "State of Matter" everything is coming round full circle.
Now the Japanese know about forging vis- Samurai swords as did the Vikings Ulfberht sword and the Swedes still keep some of their steel formula's secret, both Germany and Britain were supplied with Swedish bearing during WW2 and of course there is technical history behind Sheffield steel.
However, we were pretty good with Aluminium alloys, Birmal and the Birmingham Aeroplane Company or something like that name, cast the cylinder heads and the Hillman Imp engine cast I think by Rootes themselves was the first mass-produced car to be manufactured with both an aluminium head and block! Forced into production too soon by politicians wanting glory over and above engineering practice and a wiser delayed production schedule!
Incidentally the Rootes brothers had their origins from a Grandfather or Great Grandfather, who was a Blacksmith @ High Halden in Kent.
For rotating mass Aluminium is about 30% the weight of Iron, Copper or Zinc & Cast Iron and although the manufacturers state Billet products are slightly stronger than cast, the old tried and tested forged casting procedure is pretty damned impressive.
Having three Kawasaki 4's one 70 air-cooled and two 80s water-cooled I remember reading that Kawasaki built test engines, pushed them to their limit and detuned them by 30%. A margin, insisting this was necessary for reliability and the companies reputation!
Our products, the old bikes were made in an "Agricultural" sense and mind-set, evolving from the industrial revolution and the Post War Japanese made their motorcycles with the new industrial mindset hence the different method approaches and solutions.
My Father worked for Leyland Motors in Lancashire and then for Volvo, he told me when serving his time 1948-1954, he was fixing plant still machining that was pre-WW1, good machines but....Honda invested 14-17% of their profits annually into R & D. British manufacturers were slow to learn and indeed some never did! Hence my problem over shareholders and high returns!
John
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Linguistics Dominator the word sadly not of Anglo-Saxon Origin
Phil, spelling are a bit adhoc Linguistically speaking, (no pun intended)! Often the spelling that was adopted was the one in common use, even if it was incorrect.
In Saxon the Norton model should have been called "Ruler", sadly it doesn't quite work!
Seize:
Middle English: from Old French seizir ‘give seisin’, from medieval Latin sacire, in the phrase ad proprium sacire ‘claim as one's own’, from a Germanic base meaning ‘procedure’.
Siege
C13: from Old French sege a seat, from Vulgar Latin sēdicāre (unattested) to sit down, from Latin sedēre.
Blame it on the French! Or possibly an English misspelling of the French word?
British English is a real mixture of origins and I 30-40 % Latin word origins, I believe we have more words in our " Word hoard" than any other language, this was brought about through successive invasions and influxes of, Proto-neolithic peoples, Iberians, Celts, Romans, Germans, Angles, Saxons, Jutes, Scandinavians including the big influx of Danes, Norwegians, Frisians, Franks, the Dutch and of course words borrowed from Scottish, Welsh and Irish dialects, West Indian and Asian words too, the latest being Low brow gangsta rap entering ...not good, with dubious moral stances and we wonder what' is going wrong in society!
However, the British Army of the Empire, loved to collect words and brought them back to Blighty! Having said that sadly on the "Streets" I hear very little word use, unless it begins with an F a C and other foul expletives, now thankfully, mumbled through face masks our language is being emasculated!
- break/damage
- come/arrive
- make/create
- need/require
The first words are Anglo-Saxon, the second from the Romance language, Love/Romance! Original Germanic dialect words are generally short in letters and not as sweet as those in the Romance Languages!
Dip/Dive/Duck, Saxon words round behaviour in water, Romance language Submerge/Emerge/ Plunge!
John
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Re pre war machine tools...
... there's a story that after the move of Norton from Bracebridge Street to Woolwich one of the turners could never get parts to the right dimensions. All his mates tried as well as the foreman and none could do it. Eventually they contacted the chap who'd run the lathe at Bracebridge Street. He said "You did remember the plank when you moved the machine didn't you?" "Plank?" "Yes, you wedge it between the lathe headstock and the wall to keep it steady".
Probably apocryphal however maybe a nugget of truth there.
Of course both Japan and Germany had their industry virtually totally destroyed so had to restart with new kit while Britain soldiered on with antiques.
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Marshall Plan
We benefited more than any other country via the Marshall plan so where did the money go to?
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Post photo of Mad Mitch's girl
Post photo of Mad Mitch's girl
She must have been exceptional???
Mike
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The image you've shown seems to be ok to me - but what is the number like on the left-hand crankcase curved part ? Cheers, howard