Commando ignition switch

Hi Ian,

I put a pair of relays on my 850 MkIII about 30 years ago. You just need to take a power feed straight from the battery via a fuse (I also took a ground direct from the battery as well) up into the headlight to feed a couple of relays, you then use the current wiring to the lights to switch the relays. This then means you are getting the full battery volts direct to the headlights rather than going via the ignition switch, the dip / main switch and numerous connectors. You will besurprisedjust how bright your headlight will be !

I am still using the standard charging system which seem perfectlyadequate. I too have Boyer ignition. I do have a boyer power box on another Norton and this seems to do a good job.

Let me know if you need more detail.

Regards

Tony

Previously wrote:

Over years of commuting on my Mk 2aI found that the ignition contacts for the lighting circuits spark erode. Now that I am putting it back on the road what is the recommendation for fittingrelays on the lighting circuits?

Also, any views on upgrading the charging system would be useful. The system is stock at present except for the Boyer Ignition and the chance of going to a higher output alternator and modern control units looks attractive. Thanks...

Hi Ian

I've just put together a JPN replica which as you probably know has 2 headlights. I decided to fit relays in the fairing, oneto switch on the lights via the ignition switch and anotherto select Main / Dip beam via thedip switch. I've got a supply straight from the battery to both relays andthe lights are pretty good.

I've got a 3 phase 180W alternator fitted but still get the red light coming on when the revs drop off but then again with 110w of main beam and another 20-25w of side/tail/instrument lights you would expect that.

I've also got a voltmeter mounted just to "Keep an eye"on the charging situation and with all lights off and running at about 4-5k it shows a good 15v