Damned electrics ! all dead

I would run an earth from the headlamp shell back to the frame or battery. The wiring diagrams do contain an error ,I can't remember what it is but will research it for you. there are small link wires on the PSR8 easy to miss.Old PSR8 switches can have corroded externalterminals. I would not recommend taking one appart till everythig else checked out, They are full of spring feelers and not easy to re-assemble.New pattern PSR8's have a poor reputation.Can't imagine that the rectifier is causing this problem.

Pl Garret did a manual that had the correct diagram which looks the same but had a different connection somewhere (link wire i think) .when the headlight position is switched there is an internal connection in the switch between 2 and3,4 and 5 and10 and 11, you could hotwire these external to the switch to check if the internals are good.(It would make no difference if good).

You can see why I ditched the ghastly PRS8 switch on my Domi and went for a much simpler setup. I would recommend the same.

John, you mention you have fitted a new electronic regulator, so if this isthe case, most of the contacts internally in the PRS8 switch won't be used as they were originally toswitch in coils to provide extra current to balance thecurrent being drawn by the head lights etc. Find two terminals thatmake a circuit when the light switch is turned to lights on, anuse those for the lights. Do the same for the ignition switch. You won't have EMG start anymore using the electronic reg/rectifier. If all the terminals are open circuit in all switch positions, the switch probably has water ingress at some time (common fault) and probably is buggered! Though, I have pulled them apart in my yoof and cleaned up the contacts. not hard, just a bit fiddly.

You mention the horn stopped working, well that has nothing to do with the PRS 8 switch, and probably is a crook terminal somewhere. They do pull a bit of current when on, and any weak connection in the circuitwill fail

.Have you checked the fuse?....maybe that has blown causing total failure!

Paul

My 99 is converted to 12v with a zener diode ,and solid rectifier, I re-used the old loom as the repacement was far too flimsy , This meant i could simplify the wiring with spare wires that i used for earth run back to the battery area ,indicators etc. For emergency starting and running without a battery (if failed) i fitted a 2MC capacitor as used on later bikes. This is all a bit dated now but perfomed perfectly with the orriginal alternator and starts from flat.

Previously john_baker2 wrote:

Thanks Paul. Solid state rectifier. No fuse (its too old for that)

I'll check my wiring and connectors once again...battery/bulb thid time rather than by eye.

And yes the PR58 switch has been unused(like the m/c) for years.

regards John

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OK John, I read your original post wrong, I thought you had fitted a regulator/rectifier, which would make most of your PRS8switch contacts unused. Just renewing the rectifier will still necessitate the use of the PRS8switch as intended.

It would be best for you to fit a modern reg/rectifierwhich would give you simpler wiring, better reliability and giveyour battery a better time.

AND, fit an inline fusefrom the battery (15 - 20amp) to protect the charging/lightingwireing. The horn has it's own isolated circuit due to high current draw.

NOW, if someone can answer my request for info re the front fork spring free length??

Paul.

Previously john_baker2 wrote:

Thanks Paul. Solid state rectifier. No fuse (its too old for that)

I'll check my wiring and connectors once again...battery/bulb thid time rather than by eye.

And yes the PR58 switch has been unused(like the m/c) for years.

regards John

Yes you must fit a fuse-saves smoke and fire. With regard to the PRS8 I can service these if you need it, there is a chance that parts are broken beyond their usage. But most of the time they do respond. The PRS8 is there for ignition, and lights and increasing the alternator output to keep the battery up when lights are on. There is only one PRS8 function that can stop the charge. This is the ouput wire from the rectifier goes to the PRS8 and is switched through to the battery via the ammeter. To by-pass this function (not needed now anyway) take the output from the rectifier and feed it straight to the ammeter. Looking carefully at the switch diagram will show you this route. The rectifier output goes to 13 while the ammeter is fed from 2 so take 13 direct to the ammeter. But leave power still on 13 and 2.

Have fun.

Al Osborn.

If you do decide to strip the switch mark across the body to help reassembly in the orriginal position, I used a length of fishing line to hold the fingers in while re-assembling .The headlamp earth is poor and could do with its own wire back to the frame or battery.You should be able to get the lights working no matter what state the charge system is in.(unless its shorted the power to earth).