Hello All,
I am need to paint the Navigator's tank, front mudguard and side panel and two Triumph tanks. I sprayed one of the Triumphs tanks with cheapo acrylic spray cans and--to my surprise it came out good. I then got petrol on it and it was like the Alien's blood in the SF film. Bought some clear laquer but to no avail.
I have bought a litre of black and a litre of red cellulose paint (cost loads it did) as my n neighbour has the set up to spray it. I now hear that it is not proof against petrol any more. I wondering about synthetic enamel paint--and brush painting it --any views ourt there?
JPA
Thats what I used ICI tran…
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You need ethanol resistant…
You need ethanol resistant laquer or alternatively use E0 petrol.
Esso Synergy Supreme+ (97 RON) with a red label, but not available in Devon and Cornwall, Teesside ethanol zone and Scotland.
Stay away from EN228.
Needle sticking.
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I used ICI Transport synth…
I used ICI Transport synthetic coach paint with a retarder 10% and brushed it on 20 years ago,I can see its brushed ,but no one else notices,and I only did a couple of coats, It has not been affected by fuel,but then I avoid eth mostly. As long as you don't expect perfection
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Hello John, You need to us…
Hello John,
You need to use 2K primer, paint and lacquer if you want to do a decent job. All modern vehicles are finished with 2K lacquer even if the paint used is water based. Cellulose hasn't been used for many (maybe 40 or more) years now as it simply isn't good enough but it does give a lovely period correct finish. Always use a 2K primer first as it is vastly superior.
2K lacquer is cheap ,easily available and easy to spray BUT the snag is you need proper professional breathing equipment - an air fed mask is the minimum needed and a full suit and heated spray booth is preferable. Water based paint definitely needs baking/drying equipment and in any case is always finished with 2K lacquer. Ask your friend about spraying 2K.
I think you can put the 2K lacquer over cellulose without any reaction but I have never done this so can't be definite. You definitely can spray cellulose over a 2K base coat - that's what I use on the MGB as this gives the best of all worlds (for cars) -i.e the strength of 2K with the finish of cellulose.
Patrick
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Previously robert_tuck wro…
Previously robert_tuck wrote:
I used ICI Transport synthetic coach paint with a retarder 10% and brushed it on 20 years ago,I can see its brushed ,but no one else notices,and I only did a couple of coats, It has not been affected by fuel,but then I avoid eth mostly. As long as you don't expect perfection
Hello Robert--thanks for this--what is a retarder and where does one get some?
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Retarder slows the drying…
Retarder slows the drying to allow more brushing time, bought from the paint supplier. Think I used an undercoat from International paints . The red was a really good match but the Dove grey came out lighter and more creamy ,thank god! Never did like that drab grey white.
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Previously John Pullen-App…
Previously John Pullen-Appleby wrote:
Hello All,
I am need to paint the Navigator's tank, front mudguard and side panel and two Triumph tanks. I sprayed one of the Triumphs tanks with cheapo acrylic spray cans and--to my surprise it came out good. I then got petrol on it and it was like the Alien's blood in the SF film. Bought some clear laquer but to no avail.
I have bought a litre of black and a litre of red cellulose paint (cost loads it did) as my n neighbour has the set up to spray it. I now hear that it is not proof against petrol any more. I wondering about synthetic enamel paint--and brush painting it --any views ourt there?
JPA
Hello well there is a lacquer that is anti-ethanol and is in a spray can with pull ring on the underside to activate it is not cheap at £16 of a 400 ml but works well when dry and stop any ethanol messing up your paintwork and gives a nice shine yours anna j
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Previously anna jeannette…
Previously anna jeannette Dixon wrote:
Previously John Pullen-Appleby wrote:
Hello All,
I am need to paint the Navigator's tank, front mudguard and side panel and two Triumph tanks. I sprayed one of the Triumphs tanks with cheapo acrylic spray cans and--to my surprise it came out good. I then got petrol on it and it was like the Alien's blood in the SF film. Bought some clear laquer but to no avail.
I have bought a litre of black and a litre of red cellulose paint (cost loads it did) as my n neighbour has the set up to spray it. I now hear that it is not proof against petrol any more. I wondering about synthetic enamel paint--and brush painting it --any views ourt there?
JPA
Hello well there is a lacquer that is anti-ethanol and is in a spray can with pull ring on the underside to activate it is not cheap at £16 of a 400 ml but works well when dry and stop any ethanol messing up your paintwork and gives a nice shine yours anna j
Thanks Anna,
Do your know what it is called--and where I might get some?
JPA
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John, These are advertised…
John,
These are advertised as 2K lacquer aerosols and are CLAIMED to be petrol resistant.
They are NOT normally kept by the established trade motor factors but possibly you might get these at the DIY outlets such as Halfords. They could be worth a try.
A while back I asked the paintman at my local trade paint supplier (a local Motor Factor) about these and his opinion was that they didn't keep them because they were 'junk'. They claim to be 2K but opinion is that they are not true 2K. So if the auto trade professionals don't rate them you make up your own mind.
The hardener used in true two pack contains isocyanates which are poisonous - hence all the fuss about health warnings and using only proper air fed masks etc.
Patrick
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Previously John Pullen-App…
Previously John Pullen-Appleby wrote:
Previously anna jeannette Dixon wrote:
Previously John Pullen-Appleby wrote:
Hello All,
I am need to paint the Navigator's tank, front mudguard and side panel and two Triumph tanks. I sprayed one of the Triumphs tanks with cheapo acrylic spray cans and--to my surprise it came out good. I then got petrol on it and it was like the Alien's blood in the SF film. Bought some clear laquer but to no avail.
I have bought a litre of black and a litre of red cellulose paint (cost loads it did) as my n neighbour has the set up to spray it. I now hear that it is not proof against petrol any more. I wondering about synthetic enamel paint--and brush painting it --any views ourt there?
JPA
Hello well there is a lacquer that is anti-ethanol and is in a spray can with pull ring on the underside to activate it is not cheap at £16 of a 400 ml but works well when dry and stop any ethanol messing up your paintwork and gives a nice shine yours anna j
Thanks Anna,
Do your know what it is called--and where I might get some?
Hello I am back with some info now look on ebay item No 290298828508 jawel paints proxl 2k clear coat its not cheap as you see your anna J
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Neil it is just the petrol…
Neil it is just the petrol not the ethanol, my EO fuel is just as efficient as a paint remover as any ethanol fuel!
The problem is the chemical make up of the paint. I too had a good finish with rattle cans and then lost it when I filled up. I repeated the exercise and finished with Halfords petrol resistant lacquer and have had no problem since, however the spray pattern of the lacquer was poor.
Dan
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Hello All, I have not had…
Hello All,
I have not had much chance to tend to the Norton of late (I am an all weather rider with no other transport so BSAs with blocked cards and Triumphs with leaking rockerboxes have got in the way--as has marking atrocious essays.
I tried rubbing some black cellulose off a bit of ally my neighbour had used to stir the paint. I could rub it off with some effort--the acrylic paint I had used on another tank would have disolved instantly and left a stick mess.
I am not stymied by A the weather--it is too cold and damp to spray and B my neighbour not being well--that's the Christmas holiday ruld out I fear (shame as i want to do a Triumph tank as well and I need to ride it before long).
I have been given some aerosol lacquer. The guy that gave to me described it as 2 pack but it is just one can with no pull out the pin bit. It is all labled in German but is the orginal clear lacquer for GM cars--I gather when touching up repairs one sprays a base coat followed by this stuff. It is for sale on E-bay (I was given several cans by a plumber doing work at a garage and they were going to throw it out). I sprayed some on the celluose paint and while it is apted to go like orange peel if one sprays it it in freezing cold sheds(I was using the most empty of 3 cans and it comes out rather fitfully)--I cannot make it come off with fuel--it will not touch it.
Whether it will end up ruining the finish on the (still yet to be painted) parts remains to be seen but Iam told it can be polished. Does anyone recognise it?
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Here is the other side of…
Here is the other side of the can. My German is disgracefuly bad but--and perhaps Uli will correct me here--I think that the writing is principally a series of wraning about the contents rather than instructions on how to use. From what I can see it needs to be sprayed on something clean, after testing the nozzle, sprayed from 10 inches or so away and left to dry for 30 mins (looking at the pictures)
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Hello John, It looks like…
Hello John,
It looks like standard Opel/Vauxhall acrylic lacquer to me. It is difficult to see the contents (Enthalt) listed because of the curvature of the can but it does not seem to contain isocyanates. The writing is just the usual warning about a pressurised container, keep away from fire etc. poisonous to water life.etc
All lacquer is to some extent petrol resistant but it needs to be properly hardened.
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John, I noticed your comme…
John,
I noticed your comment about spraying in a freezing cold shed. That's just asking for bother. Normally you should paint at a temperature of 20/21 degrees and then allow plenty of drying time, at least 24 hours. Alternatively if you have the right facilities you should increase the temperature up to 40/50 degrees for say one hour.
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John, you?re right these a…
John,
you?re right these are all warning hints for the can, do not spray in open flames, can harm your eyes, lungs etc,do not heat over 50?Celsius, most important warning of all: do not give in the hand of kids so you have to find an adult to spray it for you, John!
But it is not a 2K spray paint.
I used some of it on my Commando (fork bridges I think) and the 2K cans always hat a pull ring at the bottom like a hand grenade to inject the hardener into the can. I had to use them up within a few hours.
Something like this:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kustom-Canz-2K-CLEAR-COAT-400ml-AEROSOL-CAN-Custom-Paint-Motorcycle-HOK-PPG/182461608664?hash=item2a7b8f32d8:g:pTYAAOSwWxNYqxcZ
Previously John Pullen-Appleby wrote:
Here is the other side of the can. My German is disgracefuly bad but--and perhaps Uli will correct me here--I think that the writing is principally a series of wraning about the contents rather than instructions on how to use. From what I can see it needs to be sprayed on something clean, after testing the nozzle, sprayed from 10 inches or so away and left to dry for 30 mins (looking at the pictures)
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John, If you do use lacque…
John,
If you do use lacquer from Uli's Custom Canz source please do let us know how you get on with it. It looks expensive but aerosols are convenient even for pro painters for small paint jobs - i.e motorbike tanks etc. The 'problem' with a spray gun is the time/materials used to clean it after using as this takes ages to do properly- aerosols you use and throw away. Plus all the time in setting up the compressors and getting on your space suit. So very time saving.
2K means 2 (K)omponent, i.e two items mixed together; i.e paint and hardner(also called activator). The hardner(not the paint) is the one NORMALLY containing the isocynates which is a noxious item and requires proper precautions - hence labelled For Professional Use Only as you should only spray using a full air fed breathing mask. Paint sellers should only supply to pro-users because of the health hazard. Most hardner seems to be German manufacture and is labelled harter on any cans I have.
I have been told that some hardner (as used in the aerosols) does not contain Isocynates (but it is still a 2K) so you don't need all the professional breathing equipment. However local trade counters here give it a bad opinion and don't keep it. Hence I for one would like to hear some user opinions- I am assuming that the Custom Canz aerosol does not contain Isocynates as it does not give the statutory warnings which are required otherwise.
Happy Christmas
Patrick
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I can get a good finish wi…
I can get a good finish with aerosols, but I have yet to find any available in the usual stores that donât chip easily,
dan
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Thanks one an all. I doubt…
Thanks one an all. I doubt temperatures above 50 c will a problem round mine.
I bought some 1K lacquer once and ethanol fuel went through it like a does of salts. What ever this GM suff is to does deem to resist the fuel. I shall try it (and it was free!).
All this will of course be after the paint goes on--when that will be I know not. Still perhaps the bqrrels will come back--then I can finish the engine instead.
Cheers
JPA
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Thats what I used ICI transport.