I installed my Sparx 3-phase alternator and Sparx ignition, with jumpers from two of the three yellow regulator wires connected separately to the W terminals on the "assimilator," or ignition warning lamp unit. The light goes out as the motor revs up from idle, but then comes back on during steady rpm driving, as if the battery is now topped off and the alternator voltage is lower than battery voltage. The battery charges at over 14 volts and the motor starts and runs great. Surely there must be an installation so that the light goes out above idle rpms and does not come back on at higher rpms when all is well with the electrical system, instead of coming back on as if there were a problem. Any suggestions? I can't even get contact info for Sparx to ask them.
Thanking you in advance, AJ (1975 Commando Mk III, Electric Start, USA)
Hi AJ, In the abscence of…
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Previously wrote: I instal…
Previously wrote:
I installed my Sparx 3-phase alternator and Sparx ignition, with jumpers from two of the three yellow regulator wires connected separately to the W terminals on the "assimilator," or ignition warning lamp unit. The light goes out as the motor revs up from idle, but then comes back on during steady rpm driving, as if the battery is now topped off and the alternator voltage is lower than battery voltage. The battery charges at over 14 volts and the motor starts and runs great. Surely there must be an installation so that the light goes out above idle rpms and does not come back on at higher rpms when all is well with the electrical system, instead of coming back on as if there were a problem. Any suggestions? I can't even get contact info for Sparx to ask them.
Thanking you in advance, AJ (1975 Commando Mk III, Electric Start, USA)
Hi,I don`t know if it`ll help but my warning light wouldn`t go out even after renewing the assimilator unit. After checking every bit of electrical equipment on the bike I bought another assimilator unit and that cured the problem.
Chris
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Hi, My warning light, used…
Hi,
My warning light, used to come on with little load and revs, and dim only when quite a few revs had been demanded. I queried a dealer and suggested that they were never that accurate and that the best way to check is connect test meter set on amps in line with the negative battery feed ( used the fuse holder ) With the light on it was showing a healthy charge to the battery, so it has been like this for 15 years and I have not bothered about it.
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Hi AJ,
In the abscence of any other replies. .....Suggest you contact Al Osbourne who is the sparky gury for NOC.