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I was riding when I felt something tapon my right foot. I was the kickstarter, it was inverted to the fully kicked position. So I stopped. with the bike in gear as I pushed it back and forward the kickstarter swung up and down as ifdirectly connected. then as I pushed back and forth there was a metalic bang and it freed off and returned to normal on the ratchet. I worked through the gears and pumped the kickstarter a few times which was now returning freely. I decided to chance riding it home but a mile down the road it happened again. I took it home in a van. When I looked for an expected problem with the ratchet assembly I found none. I can see no explaination. The primary chain seems a tad on the tight side to me. I had left it like that because that's how Norvil hadadjusted it and no one has touched it since them. I now wonder if it was too tight and something has become damaged or out of line.Well on the theory that by now anything Norton that happens will have happened before, is anybody familiar with this?

Barry.

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Layshaft bearing drive side gone. Replace with 06-7710 roller bearing. Check state of 04-0146 bush in kickstart shaft. Do not continue riding the bike unless you want to buy a new gearbox shell.

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Hi Barry

I agree with Joe, its just as well you put the bike in a van, the layshaft bearing fitted into the gearbox case is worn and needs replacement. The play in the layshaft grips the kickstart shaft under load and pulls it backwards (one end of the layshaft runs inside the kickstart shaft). The bearing can break up causing much damage, itmust bereplaced withthe stronger roller bearing.

Alan

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Thanks Fellas, I do appreciate it. Now I can get on and fix it with much more confidencenow that I havean understanding of why. Cheers.

All the best for Christmas and New Year,

Barry

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Whilst in there get a re-build kit and do all the bearings, seals and bushes. You'll be surprised that though the bushes feel fine, when tried against new ones it is some difference, it will also transform your gearbox. I was used to my old box and had same problem - bit the bullet and done it, but it felt 10x better when done. If it is a MKIII the gearbox will come out through the right mounting plate - just a bit fiddly though.

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Previously wrote:

Well I'm afraid I didnt even get started. Fell ill. I did intend to change bushesseals and the kich start pawl. A stitch in time and all that.It's been 30 years since I took the gearbox out of a commando. that was an 850MK 2A andI was taking the engine out too so it wasnt a problem. This bike is a 72 750. I was hoping to somehow wriggle the box out. Soyou reckon this is only possible on a MK3?

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Barry, Feeling better? I got the flu New years eve and still getting over it! The box will come out as per Mk3 but if you have a 72 (Combat) the n/s case breatherstops the box from rotating backwards until the mounting lugs align with the cradle cutouts. You need to remove the three rear engine studs and pull the cradle, box and swingarm assy to the rear. You will then have enough space to work. If you remove the breather assy as well that makes it easier also.

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Hi Guys, thought I`d add my recent gearbox overhaul problems to see if anyone else out there has experienced similar - rebuilt my Mk111 'box with all new bushes, bearings, seals, springs and gaskets. Fitted a Mick Hemmings 'Special Ball Bearing' to the layshaft instead of the o/e type roller bearing. Since the rebuld, the kickstart binds and the rear wheel turns in neutral on pushing down on the kickstarter; plus the kickstart will not spring back up from about the half way down position. All the new bushes are free on their shafts.There is a shim fitted to the kickstart shaft which was there prior to the rebuild (no problems with the kickstart before the rebuild) The Parts list does not show this shim, and Mick says it shouldn't be there at all! But withit fitted there is just perceptible end float of the kickstart shaft - without the shim fitted the end float is excessive.(The shim used is a rear isolastic shim fromthe earlier models). Obviously, I could remove this shim or fit a thinner shim, which might free up the kickstart, but as I have a perceptible end float at the kickstart shaft, I`m not sure that the shim is the actual cause of the problem. Any ideas, please? Many thanks, Ken Weeks.

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Ken, Had similar issues myself several years ago. Also tried the 'Iso' shim trick but it made little difference. My problem was the k/s moving in 1st on brisk takeoffs. It wasn't the lay bearing as it already had a roller fitted. After several rebuilds and finally with the same HD ball bearing you have I noticed witness marks on the layshaft 2nd gear dogs and k/s shaft face which had been contacting the end of the k/s shaft. Where these 2nd gear dogs project thru the lay 1st gear the end face of the k/s is recessed. I had to shim1st gear away from the k/s by appx 020" and that solved the problem. If you study the gearbox pics on Old Britts site under Tech articles - How gearbox works it might help. Why I had to do this I don't know, just unlucky with tolerances I guess. Certainly never heard of anyone else having to do it. While you have end play with your k/s there may be enough movement with gears to bind under load. Just an idea.

http://www.oldbritts.com/ob_start.html

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I swopped my layshaft ball bearing for a roller and the box lost its sweet change, no idea why, next time i'm in there i'll go back to a ball bearing which is ok on a Dommy.

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When I rebuilt mine, I noticed the lateral play in the kickstart shaft seemed excessive but still enabled the pawl to engage correctly, so I did not fit any shims to correct and it works fine. I replaced the layshaft original roller bearing with a new roller bearing that was in the kit. Kick start works fine. I had no markings that suggested that anything was wrong or needed shimming so just rebuilt.Personally, I would remove the shim and rebuild it providing their are no serious marks in places that you would not expect to find it.

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Hi Everyone, and a big 'Thank You' to Keith, Robert and Ashley for responding so quickly to my tale of Mark 111 Commando gearbox woe -(ref. the binding kickstart and movement of the rear wheel on depressing the kickstart in neutral).-I removed thegearbox outer cover (again!!!) and found that the fault was caused by the kickstart shaft binding on the steel bush through which it passesin the gearbox outer cover. A few minutes work with some emery paper has freed everything up so that now the kickstart returns correctly, plus the rear wheel no longer turnson depressing the kickstart. - Itappears thatthe steel bush in the gearbox outercover was in contact with the kickstart shaft. Thiscontactwas sufficient to push the the kickstart shaft downwards, causing the kickstart shaft internal bush to twist and bind on the end of the layshaft, ie the kickstart shaft and the layshaft were no longer running in a dead straight line.

I`ve never knownthis to happen before, and was beginning to think that I`d made a mess of overhauling the 'box - glad it was only a gremlin which was easily sorted!

Once again, my grateful thanks to the contributors for their time and assistance. Ken Weeks.

 



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