Torque up rotor and clutch nuts

Hi Steve,

Back off before you do any more damage.

What you need is called a clutch locking tool. Available from the likes of RGM or Andover Norton.

Basically a clutch plate with both outer and inner tangs so the clutch is locked solid when inserted. You have to pull your plates off the clutch before using the tool.

An arm is attached to the special plate so you can react the torque applied on the clutch centre nut.

Personally, I find it best to extend the arm so that it rests on top of the pillion footrest for tightening rotor nut and clutch nut. Then to release these nuts rotate the pillion footrest 180 degrees and have the arm captured under the pillion footrest.

Hope this helps.

Peter

Have you tried screwing the pressure plate spring adjuster nuts up tight to help lock the clutch? 

I would use a lower torque  and  nut lock.  Old clutch centers will  splay and  load up on the sleeve gear. Old rotors wont be happy either. I use 40-50 ft lbs. Not had any come loose.

... a sprag between the teeth of the engine and clutch sprocket for this kind of job. It locks them together with no need for compilcated holders and doesn't damage the chain or sprockets unlike wedging things in there.

Easily made from a bit of  scrap alloy, copper, or even mild steel.

As far as the clutch centre goes I use a Commando exhaust nut C spanner - I think there was a mention of this in the current Roadholder.

With a locking device you can go a bit more than 50 on the crank nut   with locktite.  The clutch  is a bit more fragile  ,especially with the  spider detail that some orriginal bikes have.  Replacements are availiable with a proper  stop feature , until you compare the  inner workings  with a torch  you won't realise  there has been an improvement.