1959 Model 50. The bike starts easily in the garage and ticks over for a while and then stops. Therafter it will not restart until it is completely cold again. The carburettor is new and has all the recommended jets & standard settings. So, for now at least, I'm assuming the problem is electrical. The contact breakers have just been replaced. Less than 1000 miles ago the capacitor, the coil, the HT lead and cap and the plug were replaced.
What I have discovered (but this may be normal) is that the coil gets seriously warm although not too hot to touch. Also, holding it while the engine was running caused me to get a shock. So could the problem be the capacitor, the coil or the HT lead and is it possible to isolate which of these it may be without replacing the lot ?
Could be the coil is…
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If it's fuel starvation ...
... blocked petrol cap breather?
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starts easily
I once had a similar problem, which was caused by the points sticking open when warm, hope this helps
regards
Andrew
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Coil again
Start the bike when cold-fine, then put a hot-air gun on the coil. You can get the coil too hot to touch (70deg) and it should still function. Take the cap of the points, check for opening/closing by eye. If not sure then set the points open and short them with a small screwdriver-should give a spark. Again running the bike cold and then hot-air gun on the points might show some thing. But a coil shorting inside is highly likely.
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Coil failure - common causes
Hi All,
Thanks for the feedback on my ignition issues. Lots to work through & try. Interestingly an article on this subject has been brought to my attention - 'Why ignition coils fail - common causes'. This is by Tony Proctor and was found in either the June or July issue of OBM. So this, along with the forum comments, will form the basis of my investigation. I'll report back if I identify a specific problem.
Mike
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This was exactly what…
This was exactly what happened to me once with a BSA A10. (yes, I know)
Started fine from cold, but stopped and would not restart when hot. Fine again when cooled down.
Turned out to be missing the insulation piece between the carb and the head.
A home made paxolin spacer cured it.
Just a thought.
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Tick over, restart problem solved - the Coil !
Model 50 now running as it should. The problems I was having were due to the coil being damaged. In my efforts to clamp it securely and stop any movement I had crushed the outer casing causing an internal short. This was evidenced by me getting a shock when holding the outer casing with the engine running ! So, with a new coil and a superior clamp for attaching it to the frame, the problem is solved. Thanks for all suggestions.
Mike
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Could be the coil is internally shorting when warm, been there and got 250 yards every 15 mins stop for a cool down on the flat, luckily most was downhill on route home so coasted for most of way. Holding the coil too tight in its bracket can crush the case and then short it internally, I wrap it in a piece of inner tube to stop that happening. As soon as the engine stops have you pulled the plug and then rested it on the head and checked for spark.