LED volt meters

Have you checked the voltage where the unit is connected to the bikes wiring it may be a bad earth or other bad contection means the unit is not seeing the full voltage of other parts of the wiring loom. Or temporarily connect it directly to the battery and see if this changes its behavour but then disconnect it when the bike is not in use.

I had something similar from a company called Gammatronix. Cost about £7 on ebay 18 months ago. It was programmable to give different indications through a tiny button on the side. Maybe yours has re-programmed itself due to water ingress. I say "was" programmable because it only lasted about 6 months then quit altogether. I now have a digital voltmeter plug designed for a cigarette lighter socket. It's fitted where my ammeter once was. Volts are a little more interesting than amps in a Norton environment.

I have had a few of them - they each lasted about 6 months. My wife's Yamaha now has a much more reliable grommet where the LED voltmeter used to go.

Peter

Phone Al Oz because he supplies his own make of mulit-colour LEDs and I am sure will help with "what makes them flash". I have had one supplied by him many years ago and it has worked perfectly on my Commando. They are very useful because the colour tells you immediately what the battery state and charging capacity is. I don't think Al's items are the same as the programmable eBay ones.

Peter,

Measuring across the battery with the engine running you should be getting between 13.5 - 14.8 volts. With lights on voltage should not drop below 13 volts. Difference between idling and revving the engine should only be 0.5 volt. Obviously further checks required if you're not getting this.

Got this info from my Gunson automotive multi meter instruction booklet.

Previously peter_stowe wrote:

Simon

i don't think any alternator fitted to a Commando will pump out over 12V at tick over, not even a 3 phase as I have fitted to mine.

I have a Rita ignition which is current hungry, so at tick over even without the lights on the battery is in a deficient condition.

I've got a few miles to make on the bike tomorrow, and the weather looks dry, so I will see what pretty colours the LED shows up then.

Thanks to everyone for their comments and observations

Peter,

To start to charge a 12V battery you need a DC voltage of nearly 13V , alternators give out a very messy form of AC. Depending on the ignition load and battery state you could just get a small charge at tickover.

Myth about RITA the early AB5 with ribbed box and a resistor on the outside is power hungry ie 4A-twice normal ignition current. The AB11 later smooth box is virtualy the same amperage as a points ignition or a Boyer Bransden MKIV. The AB5 amplifiers are virtualy unrepareable as the main power transistor is unavailable. While the AB11 is repairable. I know as I do it.

I also sell the BSM an unprogramable LED (voltmeter) and if it appears faulty I am very happy to have it back for checking. As said above direct connection the battery with engine running should assure you its corrrect working. aoservices.co.uk

Hi Gordon was that you above?

Al Osborn.

Peter,

I think your recorded voltage is low, especially for a 3 - phase 180w alternator and Al seems to agree ref. voltage at idle. It looks like you need to do some component output checks. Fully charged battery should be minimum 12.60 volts. I think your led indicator is probably working fine. I have 3-phase 180w alternator and ride everywhere on main beam, no problems.

Previously peter_stowe wrote:

Simon / Al

I have the AB5 amplifier which I knew was quiet power hungry, but didnt realise just how much--- 4 amps is 48 Watts-- just to run the ignition, so no wonder it hardly charges at tick over. When I had the single phase alternator and Rita it was always a flat battery day.

I like the Rita as it is as reliable as a brick (and as big), but maybe it's time I left the transistor age behind and joined the silicon age with a Pazon system-- then I would have some Watts to use elsewhere.

Peter.

The transistors in the RITA are silicon, as they are in the Pazon. (but a little more up to date) but why worry about being up to date for the sake of it-you ride a 40 year old bike!!!

An easy route is to find an AB11 amplifier. The set up is exactly the same except that you have two plugs (a 3 and a 2) on the AB11. You (or I) can either change them to the other, on the amplifier or change to ordinary Luca connectors. I long ago fitted a 5 pin (RITA type) plug to the AB11 on my (MototGuzzi) (shock horror), this made it one plug to change amplifiers and I could use the earleir AB5 I still had as a direct plug in spare. Your choice. Stick with the RITA and an AB11 is my suggestion.

Al O

Hi Al, that was me. I should get round to gettingone of yournice new LED voltmeters for the Yamahabut as it is hardly ever used I haven't quite got round to it. Must put it on the list. Meanwhile, the dynamo regulator you supplied for the BSA is the dog's wotsits, as demonstrated at the VMCC meeting last night. Gordon.