Electra rebuild

Hello there,

That's the way to buy them in the first place. It's amazingly complete so should be very original but still a lot of work and expense to get it pristine.

Excellent photos. Are you now up and running?

Patrick

I'm just starting an Electra rebuild from several boxes of parts so your photos are really helpful. Please keep them coming! Thanks,Maurice

Ian,

I wish you had put these photos up eight years ago when I started my Electra rebuild. It is a travesty that the NOC have never produced a video of a lightweight rebuild. Your photos are, in many ways even better.

I can see from your photos that my clutch is probably more worn than I thought. I'm not sure I saw any cork inserts on the inner race plate as you show. Something else to check before summer and might explain why it slips.

I see your clutch cable has an adjuster where it enters the gearbox. This is a clutch cable from the 'early' Jub and Nav. All clutch cables on later gearbox lightweights have an adjuster mid cable. If it works for you, fine, but you will be caught unawares if you buy the original replacement.

You show all the clutch plates laid out before fitting. The thick plain plate is shown wrong way round. It should be fitted with the stepped side inwards, and may explain why your clutch spring retainers look so near to the end of the stud threads.

As for the rest, I get the impression your engine has done hardly any miles. At 15 to 20k miles the gearbox sprocket is usually losing a tooth and the clutch centre and drum are usually indented by the plate tangs and the tangs show signs of wear. It is a delight to see how a lightweight engine was put together when new, and a source of information for all.

I'm self taught like everyone else and ready to be corrected on these comments.

Wonderful. Please keep it up and include some cycle parts too.

Peter Holland

Previously Ian Easton wrote:

If your interested in seeing my Electra undergoing restoration I've create a page for it here... (nothing commercial...)

Previously Ian Easton wrote:

The only thing I'm missing from the bike is the sheet metal panels that go behind the carb and wrap around the frame. Can anyone help?

Have a look at NOC Shop and search for:-

SS19 E5_23168/9

Are these the parts you mean ?

Regards

Tony

edit -just noticed - out of stock.

I believe they had a batch built a while ago so it would be worth contacing anasking if they are going to do another batch.

Tony

See attached for the correct looking Clutch cable

Anfy S

----------------------

Previously peter_holland1 wrote:

Ian,

I wish you had put these photos up eight years ago when I started my Electra rebuild. It is a travesty that the NOC have never produced a video of a lightweight rebuild. Your photos are, in many ways even better.

I can see from your photos that my clutch is probably more worn than I thought. I'm not sure I saw any cork inserts on the inner race plate as you show. Something else to check before summer and might explain why it slips.

I see your clutch cable has an adjuster where it enters the gearbox. This is a clutch cable from the 'early' Jub and Nav. All clutch cables on later gearbox lightweights have an adjuster mid cable. If it works for you, fine, but you will be caught unawares if you buy the original replacement.

You show all the clutch plates laid out before fitting. The thick plain plate is shown wrong way round. It should be fitted with the stepped side inwards, and may explain why your clutch spring retainers look so near to the end of the stud threads.

As for the rest, I get the impression your engine has done hardly any miles. At 15 to 20k miles the gearbox sprocket is usually losing a tooth and the clutch centre and drum are usually indented by the plate tangs and the tangs show signs of wear. It is a delight to see how a lightweight engine was put together when new, and a source of information for all.

I'm self taught like everyone else and ready to be corrected on these comments.

Wonderful. Please keep it up and include some cycle parts too.

Peter Holland

Previously Ian Easton wrote:

If your interested in seeing my Electra undergoing restoration I've create a page for it here... (nothing commercial...)

Attachments
clutch_cable-electra-jpg

Previously Tony Ripley wrote:

Previously Ian Easton wrote:

The only thing I'm missing from the bike is the sheet metal panels that go behind the carb and wrap around the frame. Can anyone help?

Have a look at NOC Shop and search for:-

SS19 E5_23168/9

Are these the parts you mean ?

Regards

Tony

edit -just noticed - out of stock.

I believe they had a batch built a while ago so it would be worth contacing anasking if they are going to do another batch.

Tony

Hi Ian, I have a set of Panels bought from the Clubs stock some time ago and they are available at cost (club price £144.64) + postage if you still need them, give me a call.

Bob Nicholas 01934 852259 North Somerset.

Ian,

I've just put my anorak on and been out to the garage.

I have used a bolt, 3/8 diameter, 4 1/2 inches long with 4 ins unthreaded, on each side of the upper mudguard/shock/seat/lifting handle position.

Put a washer over the bolt and push it through the mudguard mounting hole from the inside.

Then a spacer 1 3/16 ins long, 3/8ins hole, 3/4 ins diameter. This spacer has a 1/16 ins 45degree chamfer at ONE end. The non-chamfered end goes over the bolt and against the mudguard.

Then a spacer as above, but only 1/4 ins long. The chamfer on this spacer faces the chamfer on the long spacer.

Then the bolt goes through the upper shock absorber mount.

Then through the mudguard stay/lifting handle.

Then a washer.

Then a nut. (A dome nut looks best. You will find a coarse BSW threaded bolt much easier as this fastner will be on and off more than any other fastner on the bike)

Before tightening the nut, fit the seat on the front hooks and force the seat brackets between the chamfers on the spacers. Do it once, and you will see what the chamfers are all about.

It never seems necessary to hold the bolt head when tightening/loosening the nut - thank goodness!

Suggest you make the spacers out of stainless. OD could be 20mm if this is the bar you lay your hand on.

Glad to hear you have combustion left and right.

Cheers

Peter

Previously Ian Easton wrote:

I'm assuming where the rear mudgaurd mounts that there are spacers that I don't have. I'll make a set up on the lathe. i have to collect my seat too.

Hi Ian,

I'm running two 6 volt batteries of the same size as originally fitted. The reference number is 6N 11A -3B

This reference gives you a battery with both terminals on the same (front) face and a vent on the left (negative) side.

I considered other configurations, and the one above gives easiest routing for cables and vent tubes. I made up new starter/earth cables of slightly heavier gauge than the originals. I'm guessing yours are still in acceptable condition.

Advise you to make a plastic cover to go over the battery terminals on both batteries and under the securing rubber straps. The left hand terminal in the battery/tool case is particularly close to the metalwork.

I did notpursue the single 12 volt battery route. You get 11 Amp hours with the standard arrangement. Note: two 6volt 11A/H batteries in series is equivalent to a 12 V 11A/H arrangement, not a 22A/H arrangement.

Exhausts should be a close fit in the ports. Norton advise owners not to extract the pipes with a racking action, as the ports will become enlarged. One of mine was too loose. I made an expanding mandrel to stretch the first 1/2 ins of pipe and it now stays put under use. With time carbon will seal any slight gaps.

Agree with your estimate of manufacturing date.

Cheers

Peter

I've got one of these on my jubilee: http://www.motobatt.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=59mostly because I had one, it fits and needs less charging during a lay up. I had one on my Gasgas 400 and it certainly lived up to its claim about greater cranking power.

I bought two of the clubs silencers and getting themto fit was a bit of a trial fiddling with spacers, not helped by worn brake pedals and slightly bent kickstart, but they are all clear now ... just!

Well Done! It sounds good and I like the Champion plug caps- so much better than NGK ones.

Previously Ian Easton wrote:

Bob, Yes it's me that needs them but that's a bit more than I want to spend. at the moment. I got the whole bike for less than that! Thanks for the offer though - much appreciated.

Ian

That's OK. I ended up buying a set from a member that cost me about the same money but they were painted therefore I have the Club ones spare. Anyone else interested???

You did well to buy at the money your indicating even if it's missing a few bits. I have one on the road and have a second in the process of rebuilding. I need the money as well!!

Bob Nicholas.

Nice work! Mind you mine wet sumps a bit but doesn't spit it all back out while it's scavenging it back into the tank.

Lovely bit of workmanship. I think that you, Peter and Ulrich are really secret agents for Mercedes Benz designing a new high quality retro lightweight Norton (engine a twin turbo V12); us accountants feel quite ashamed for using old 'bits' found under the bench and which nearly fit !.

Do you now have to take your Electra for official test (MOT, TUV,etc.) before getting out in the Californian sunshine?

Patrick

Good to hear..

PS

Is your photo page on FaceBook still available - only, I cannot log in to it anymore...

That looks really good. Well done.

That looks great, and I'm liking the other bikes in the garage, is that an RH Suzuki at the back, and what's the red tanked bike in front of it?

Dan:

Looks like a Greeves scrambler to me.

Mike

Previously michael_sullivan wrote:

Dan:

Looks like a Greeves scrambler to me.

Mike

p.s. the other red tanked bike looks like a Jawa/CZ to me.

That's a cracking collection! I race classic scrambles so know my way around dirt bikes reasonably well. The RH is recognisable by the high level exhaust, the TMs were all underslung I think It also has the same front wheel as my Montesa Capra that has TM front forks for some reason!

Guys I can spot a greeves griffon when it's got greeves written on the tank .. it was the other one I didn't recognise, it was the tank badge that threw me, most of the CZs we see are pre 74 and have a circular tank badge. I shall pay more attention in the future!

Who ever owns them is a lucky guy, I hope he uses them from time to time.

Dan

Hello Ian,

I am indeed impressed with the quality of your work - very thorough and your pictures are superb.

Where are you by the way? I thought you were in Scotland but where do you get acetone in QUART cans? Are you in USA?

Patrick

Very interesting - keep them coming.The starter solenoid looks to be the same as fitted to the 1963/4 MGB.

The solenoid is still available new both as replica and geuine Lucas. They are very useful when working on a race car in the paddock as you can fire up the engine by just pressing the rubber button on the bottom.

Patrick

Hi Ian,

All the oil tank and battery box mounts are supposed to be a rubber grommet with a steel tube inside. The rubber hardly gets squashed at all when the bolt is tightened.

Norton in their wisdom allowed for tolerances byenlarging the lower mounting holes in theouter frames. Your second to last picture clearly shows howthe steel tube, meant to be inside the grommet, has been driven into the enlarged frame mounting hole. It is a great pain to find this out when you have the frame professionally painted with the offending steel spacer driven into the mounting hole. Adding a washer between frame and spacer cures the problem.

I think your headlight shell is from another model. The Electra shell never had those two white-ishtell-tales on it. The mileage indicated may have come with the replacement shell. Your engine internals look low(er) mileage.

Thanks for putting all the photos on the web.

Good luck

Peter

Previously Ian Easton wrote:

More photos have been added. Cylinder heads are on and we're moving on to the chassis...

Ian

Previously peter_holland1 wrote:

I think your headlight shell is from another model. The Electra shell never had those two white-ishtell-tales on it. The mileage indicated may have come with the replacement shell. Your engine internals look low(er) mileage.

I have never owned an Electra and I do know that Peter has a superb Electra , so he does know his Electras. My 1961 Navigator has similar tell-tales (but in red plastic) and a previous 1963 Jubilee had the same as well (also in red). So the headlight shell is Norton - maybe yours has lived in a hot climate and the colour has faded to whitish. I think the tell tales were deleted on later models of Jubilees and Navigators but I don't know exactly when or if they were originally fitted to Electras.

Patrick

Hi Ian,

Both theNavigator and ElectraI've ownedhad the 1964-on wider Roadholders. Identified by a steering lock on the top yoke and lock stops welded to the front frame member adjacent to lower steering bearing. You have the earlier narrow forks with bolt-on lock stopand Patrick may be correct that tell/tales were discontinued with the wider forks.

The styling panels your bike lacks are held on by the 5/16 BSC outer threads on the long, cross frame,double threaded stud under the seat. Also by the thin nuts you found on the end of the swinging arm pivot stud.

Your centre stand has been repaired. Looks like the originalpedal broke off and was welded on again at a strange angle. Looks OK now, but it might foul a regular silencer. There's probably a picture of the lightweight centre stand, with foot pedal,on the NOC spares website. Pricey though. Navigators and Jubilees had a similar stand without the foot pedal. A 3/16 pin, about one inch long,was inserted just above the foot on the left leg. You'll see where if you look at the casting. You might decide to remove the welded pedal. Hope you read this before the new paint has dried.

Why does it always look so sunny in your photos? I'm beginning to think you must live in Australia.

Great photos

Peter

Previously Ian Easton wrote:

Patrick,

The bike sat out in desert heat of southern California for at least 30 years. I'm sure the red has just faded away. It's amazing that it's actaully in as good a condition as it is considering.There might be remnants of it when I take it apart. The frame is all dissasembled now and I've posted new photos.

Ian

A bit of little Known lore, Lucas headlamp shells were finished by Lucas, so its normal for them to be a completely different shade of colour from the rest of the bike.Especially after a few years in the sun.