English French German Italian Spanish

Clutch hub extractor

Submitted by richard_salt on Thu, 06/08/2020
Forums
Heavy Twins

I am trying to get the clutch hub off the gearbox shaft on my 99.

It is in position very tightly and there is no way to lever it from behind.

It has an internal thread which obviously takes an extractor tool.

Can anyone tell me exactly what this thread is as I must get one made up locally.

My measurement shows the thread id is about 30.1mm, 20 tpi.

So the thread is probably 1-1/4" x 20 tpi,  Not a standard thread.

Can anyone confirm or correct this?

Richard

Submitted by andrew_sharp on Thu, 06/08/2020

Permalink

Hello

why not buy one ready made from RGM some other supplier, they aren't expensive and will make the job easy.

regards

Submitted by richard_salt on Thu, 06/08/2020

Permalink

that I live in south Africa, and everything like this must be imported.

Due to our lockdown, no mail from our mail system whatsoever has been delivered to me for 5 months now.

That means I would have to courier it, and it would then sit in a government warehouse for heaven knows how long,  In addition, the cost here at R23 to the pound, plus VAT, taxes, duty, shipping etc will make it much more expensive than making one locally.

Submitted by jonathan_newton on Thu, 06/08/2020

Permalink

Sorry Richard, will measure mine up for you in the morning.  How goes the seat?
I am awaiting my birthday present from Durban since June.  
best regards

Jon

That photo takes me back. The box shows "P.I.P. BY C.O.D  CHILWELL OCTOBER 1955."

I think that refers to the Chilwell Ordnance Depot near Nottingham also called Chetwynd Barracks:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chetwynd_Barracks

In the 70's they used to sell off surplus motorcycles, some still crated up, as well as bigger army surplus vehicles and machinery. The stuff used to be lined up inside the fence ready to go. The bikes I saw were mainly BSA. I don't know if they sold Nortons or if the clutch puller is common to more than one make.

Dennis

 

I live less than a mile from Chetwynd Barracks.  The sale of surplus used to go to the auctions at Ruddington south east of  Nottingham.   My cousin used to drive ex WD Bedford trucks back to Wales from there, previously won by his brother-in-law.   When they got to the yard the trucks  were emptied of motorcycles (BSA's) all piled in there just to get rid. They were checked  over  and  then sent on their way to the Caribbean or Africa for a new life... And to keep it on topic; he  didn't see any clutch pullers...  ...  because he borrows mine!

Cheers

Jon

Submitted by robert_tuck on Fri, 07/08/2020

Permalink

As the clutch is not on a taper , it can sometimes just be levered off.Obviously there is nothing solid to lever against so a lot of care needed. If a puller is really needed its probably because the clutch center spider shoulder is failing and the whole caboodle is migrating up the shaft towards the end of the sleeve gear ,once this happens finding first gear and neutral from a standstill  becomes poor.Its best not to overtighten the clutch nut to avoid this happening and to use some nutlock instead.A new spider  with a better detail from RGM fixed this on my 99. And yes I really HAD to use a puller to get the clutch off.

Submitted by george_farenden on Fri, 07/08/2020

Permalink

As Rob says, the centre is on a spline, not a taper. Providing it isn't stuck on too hard, you can sometimes use the clutch lever to push the centre off. First, try reassembling the clutch without the nut on the centre and pull the clutch lever in.

If no joy, find or make up some tubes, similar ID and OD to the clutch springs and 2/3rds their free length and install them in place of the springs. Adjust cable so there is minimal play and a pull on the lever may well do the job. 

If neither works, then its off to make a puller.

Good luck,

George.

 

Submitted by richard_salt on Mon, 10/08/2020

Permalink

Thank you all.

Good idea about trying three tubes.

I suspect that an incorrect spring has been fitted under the hub retaining nut and has got itself wedged in somehow.

 

Submitted by richard_salt on Mon, 10/08/2020

Permalink

Sorry ... incorrect washer ...

Submitted by jonathan_newton on Mon, 10/08/2020

Permalink

Richard if the washer appears to be flat 360 degrees around then it has certainly been  deformed beyond its elastic range and fixed itself in the hole; probably to the outer diameter more so than the inner.

Some ideas to remove it:

  • Leave it without the nut for a while with some form of penetrating oil soaking into it
  • Freeze it with plumbers freezer spray.
     
  •  after these two it possible you can blow it out with an air line. or  just  pin punch it.
     
  •  Centre punch it on the flat that you think is the end of the coil if there is an air gap under it may allow it to bevel out.
     
  • Flat plate over the basket and tap at four points of compass to break any seal.
     
  • WITH  GREAT CARE [pass a  sleeve over the saw to protect the thread] Use a hole saw of  an appropriate size to cut the washer into two.  (The   spinning action may also release the washer if the saw is sharp.
     
  • Drag it off with a large puller over the basket. then tap in down from the rear face of the basket.  I got one with the washer permanently fitted so these methods are not  always successful.

Good luck

 

Jon

Submitted by dennis_thompson on Mon, 10/08/2020

Permalink

Jon,

You are correct. I forgot that the sales took place at Ruddington but it was a long time ago!

Still, it is fascinating to see an item from Chilwell. I laughed at the reference to your clutch puller.

Dennis

 

Submitted by richard_salt on Tue, 11/08/2020

Permalink

.... for your interesting comments. I see that this website is used for more than just exchanging technical information.  Good. Living in SA I could entertain you for a long time about happenings here. Like the time we had a leopard seen on the outskirts of town, a hippo ambling into service station for a snack.....

But to business, Jonathan, here is a photo of the seat . Nicely made, a little high in front but acceptable. All in, cost me about P34. Bringing in a cover would have cost about. P53, and maybe it would never have arrived.

I'm going to try George's methods, I haven't worked on the bike for a few days now, busy with the ES2, and went to view a group of barn finds yesterday. Interesting collection, a 1926 Triumph, complete with tinware, carbide lamp and all, looked a real bargain. A 1977 BMW R90, a 550 Kawasaki and a BSA 650 about 1965. No Nortons. I dream of finding a Manx under a bench one day. Or a Vincent, dream on.

Attachments
20200802_120130.jpg

Submitted by robert_tuck on Wed, 12/08/2020

Permalink

The spring washer does more than  lock the nut.  If it is close fitting to shaft and center it helps to support the register/shoulders in the center/spider  which is barely strong enough to resist the forces (especially if you use a Haynes Manual !.)

Submitted by jonathan_newton on Wed, 12/08/2020

Permalink

... thanks  Rob.  I think mine became part of the shaft on the old bike!

 

Cheers

J

Submitted by richard_salt on Thu, 13/08/2020

Permalink

I managed to get the hub off without a puller.

I removed the push rod, the springs and the spring cups. Then I loosely installed the outer cover using the original nuts with three large washers under them. By getting the cover in place so it is not butting up against the clutch body and tightening the outer adjusting screw against the gearbox shaft, the hub was pulled off. Or leaving the three nuts fairly slack, tighten the central adjusting screw till it butts up against the shaft, then tighten the three nuts.  Don't allow the cover to pull up against the hub.

I  think if the hub was really jammed on the shaft, maybe this wouldn't work.

 



© 2024 Norton Owners Club Website by 2Toucans