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1948 16H Help/advice

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Hello All

I have just rejoined the club after an absence of 30 years or so.  i have a lot to mention so apologise for the length of this. 

I have a 1948 16H that I bought in boxes from my uncle in 1988.  He rode them in the war as a despatch rider in the Bahamas and bought it to restore in retirement but never got round to it so sold it to me when I was 18.  I believe form past investigation that it could be a rarer model as it was one of the first with telescopic front forks and \I am sure from memory someone (possibly NOC) that it would have had a chrome oil tank,  now i am not sure since looking at online pictures of other 1948 models, would it just have been painted silver? 

I started the restoration by stripping and repainting frame and mud guards etc.  I was told the engine had been rebuilt so not looked at that (but assume it will need some attention torun on lead free fuel?), and I had a gear box built out of the 3 that I had with it. As ther didn't seem to be much value in the bike back in the late 80's I was not being too particular about authenticity, so when i had the wheels rebuild I powder coated them black,but now there seems to be value in the bikes again I was thinking I should undo this and get them chromed or replaced??

On retrieving the bike at the weekend from my dads leaking shed it is apparent that I'll need to strip all the painted parts again and redo from scratch as the paint is all flaking off.  I don't know if I should stove enamel or powder coat?  I spoke to a professional restorer today who said that he powder coats all vintage bikes now, would that be acceptable or devalue the bike?

I think the bike is 80-90% complete but am missing the magneto dynamo, the exhaust, exhaust valve lifter, brake and clutch leavers, rear seat,  headlight switch and internals cables and chains etc.  There are possibly some more parts missing but not sure.  How easy is it to get parts these days.  I also have a Watsonion side car chassis to go with it but think it might be shot as it has been outside the whole time and needs checking.

I had all the chrome parts re chromed in Shefield back in 1989, they are still buried in my dads loft and won't be able to see them for a few weeks, but am hoping they will still be good as new.  I had a bash taken out the fuel tank and had that re-chromed.  Still to check the chroming is good but will need to undo my attempt to paint the tank myself.  Who is good to get to paint the fuel and oil tank and apply decals?

What I need help with is what to do to it, should I do as much as I can my self or get a professional to do it?  I am capeable with cars and mechanics just not used to bike and all the trick bits to put back to gether!  What's it likely to cost and has anyone any idea what it would be worth in excellent condition?  I have seen some for sale up to £14k.  I do plan to keep it and ride/show it off as I have never seen one in the flesh.  If using a professional are there any recommendations as who to use?  I am based in Perth Scotland but happy to take it to wherever.

What should I do about the wheels?  I think the rims were not great and that's why I opted for powder coating.  Can I buy new/replacement rims or would I be better with new wheels.

Powder coat or stove enamel frame/ mudguards and other  black bits?

Should I chrome the oil tank?  Looking at it it doesn't look like it has ever been chromed.

Who can I get to refurb the speedo?

I have heard starting can be an issue with the original mag dyno, and was advised to get it converted to electronic ignition,  is that the best thing or should I leave original?

Once I get back home I'll post some pictures.

Thanks for any help or advice you can offer.

 

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Welcome back to the Club. Firstly £14k is unrealistic in the current market, £5 to £7k is more realistic for a 16H in good order. This is important because unless you keep costs down you will easily exceed the bikes value. Powder coating is the way to go for the frame. Always check the NOC spares shop for parts. My advice would be to put the bike together and don't worry too much about originality but enjoy it when it's done.

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If stove enamelling was good enough all them years ago why change it? I have seen far too much powder coating fall off recently, and you cannot touch it up! Stove enamelling you can (ish). That is my opinion-I do not like powder coating.
Unleaded in a 16H forget it, run it a bit rich to keep it cooler.

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Hi

Thanks for the replies so far.  Its 1948 so post war and the tank that came with the bike was chromed, that's why I got it redone, but looking at pictures of other bikes it looks like their tanks are painted?  They all seem to be slightly different, is that the case?  if so is there any way of finding out what mine should be?  Are there any original records available?

I'm leaning towards powder coating as Im sure it way more advanced that it was 30 years ago,  do you have any recommendations on who to use?

Yesterday I managed to find and exhaust from Feked.com seem ok at around £240, is it?

Looking at wheels I came across Central Wheels in Birmingham, they seem to make replica rims for Norton and other classics.  Looking at the best it looks around 370 a wheel, for  a chrome rim, single butted spokes and rebuild.  Is that reasonable or can you recommend any one else to look at?

I see that a lot of parts come from India, is that ok?  Was looking at tool box £140 and a  rear stand (the one on the bike is a central stand).

I'm thinking of doing what I can my self then getting a professional to finish off all the tricky stuff.

Having trouble sourcing a magneto for it, any suggestion?

Also is it important to use Britsh cycle thread nuts and bolts, I have used metric stainless nuts and bolts for the mud guards.  If so is there a source as I don't think they make BCT any more.

Thanks

 

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Nooky's Nuts has all you need. Bright zinc plated and stainless.
Metric ones usually have ugly marks on the heads.  And they don't match the sizes very well.  A8nnoyingly, M7 is "non standard".  Even for DIY work, I often find M6 is too small and M8 too big.  2mm step is much bigger than 1/16" (1.6mm).

 



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