MKIII LED conversion

Please be aware of some points with LED. The LED-Light Emitting Diode, is polarity conscious, and most that are sold are made for Negative Earth. There is no need to change the bike's  polarity but it could be an option-more information if you contact me direct.
You need the specific Flasher relay, as the current drawn by the LED is so small the original flasher will not work.
The wiring colours of the wires can be unusual, so have fun with the fitting and making them work.

Hi Jerome,
as the part numbers given are for an LED flasher and associated LED's then these will work on your commando.

On the MK3 you may also need the 'tweeker' or rearrange the wiring. if you use the tweeker then set it up with the bike running. They are so sensitive that if you set them up with the bike stopped then it will flash like mad when it is running. Best of all is not to botehr with the conversion of the headlights and stick with just converting the headlamp and the tail light. 

Sorry Ashley, where did the headlight / taillight come into this discussion.

You have a couple of options.

My preference is to use a modern flasher unit that has a separate line for the warning lamp.

The other benefit of a modern flasher unit is that you can use LEDs, incandescent lamps, or a mixture of both, as you no longer need to make up the magic 42 watts per side to get the flashing speed correct like you do with the original LU35048 flasher with it's bi-metallic strip.

I did an article about this sometime ago which you may find useful:

https://granttiller.com/bernie-kent

Classic Car Led's do a selection of positive or negative earth flasher units for use with LED bulbs.

Here's one example:-

https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/collections/12-volt-collection/products/12v-electronic-indicator-flasher-relay-classic-car-with-oe-click-x-l-p-2-3-pin?variant=8299346853983

The original idea for the indicators using 2X21 Watt lamps each side is that the warning bulb being only 2W (low current) gets its earth return via the low resistance (when cold) of the twoX21W lamps on the other side.
Hence when you go to LED this sytem does not work. So we have a 'normal' circuit to earth with a new LED warning lamp, but it needs a diode feed (tweeker) from each side of the indicators to make it work.