Alternator wires too close to chain

New alternators are different. I have " my" wires coming out the front , and yes the cover is a bit too close. You appear to be missing a grommet and your mounting studs will need  tin sleeves  or similar to stop the stator moving and seizing all up, Someone needs to supply some stepped up studs for the new alternators ,  COME ON SUPPLIERS !!. wake up.

Turning it round makes no difference. . cable tie the wires out of way of flappy chain. You sometimes need a crank spacer to position the rotor. I made some sleeves from a tin can ,thats why I'm Bodger Bob !.  Should not be necessary though. I am considering fitting thicker studs.

Here's mine.  It's also a Dommie.  Ps.  Why bother with 6v?  It's not even easy to buy new 6v bulbs.  A new regulator from Al Osborne, and new bulbs..and battery.  But alternator can handle it.

The correct rotor to stator clearance is vital. Non magnetic feelers help, but

Hitchcock motorcycles sell a simple 'tool' that makes this task a piece of cake.

See:https://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/accessory-shop/Charging/12029

 or look at the attached pic.

(Would be an even more useful tool with Norton info on it - club product anyone?)

All it is, is a piece of laminated paper that is 0.009" (9 thou) thick, and the correct length to wrap around the rotor without overlapping. 

To use, wrap around rotor, slide stator over it and tighten the nuts up. Remove the 'tool' and job done.

Hope this helps,

George.

Ps: my alternator wires also exit to the 'outside' of the stator, and to prevent damage are cable tied to the small bracket between the stator and footrest tube before passing through the grommet to the outside world..

Osborn, but as long as you pay your bills and buy the bits we do not mind (too much) The position of the alternator wires is NOT critical at all, except to be away from the wire chewing chain!! Certainly 12V is a better way to go, greater choice of batteries and bulbs and ignition systems. Surely 3 or 4 pieces of 8 thou plastic around the rotor will do the job? but tubes or stepped studs must the answer to the slimmer studs in the alt holes. 8 thou is the minimum clearance nay less and you are in deep sh1t

Any alternator stator will go to 12V. If you keep your demand down then you will not have a load issue. If you are converting to 12V and/or rebuilding the bike, then go 12V Charging system, battery -bulbs-ignitions system etc then If the alternator does not keep up you can change it latter.

Wiring 6V or 12V is also the same. The original charging system for 6V with switched alternator (PRS8) is redundant so buying an 'original' 6V loom then converting to 12V does give you some more work but wasted work.