Dominator Rear Brake Drum Sleeve Nuts

... to me. You'll know that it's important to make sure they are tight as once they slacken off a bit the conical seating in the hub will wear and the studs will start to come loose. As I discovered to my cost long ago.....

I can't see any real difference between these threads and the torque. I have always done them up with a 12" 1/2" bar and 'tight'.

On this subject of torque, putting an Atlas bottom end together some years ago the book said 15ftlbs for big ends! I nipped them up-on checking I had already got 20ftlbs! Commando is 25 so that's where we go in future. Has anyone managed the 'correct' head torque for the Domie/Commando?? I think this an area for 'common' sense. The other point to note is with anything like this the same on all nuts/bolts could be most important. So even if you don't know a figure with a 'talk wench' you can get them all the same.

...I managed to lose one somewhere round Kew Bridge. A rattle and a wobble told me something was wrong, pulled over and identified the fault. Surprisingly, tracing back I soon found the missing nut, half-embedded in the tarmac where it had presumably been run over and squashed into the hot road surface.

Refitted and tightened with my trusty ring spanner, and rode home a bit more gently!.After that, I drilled and lockwired them, go-faster style. Probably not so easy if you retain the ali cover plate.

With my first 88 back then  I just tightened  everything up  firmly and ocasionaly stripped a thread ,or if something persisted in comming loose you just "gave it" a bit more. Head gaskets sometimes blew and things dropped off untill you learned to keep aware and listen to the bike. With carefull assembly working in a more comfy enviroment and using  a torque wrench (one of 3 I have)  things rarely come loose ,gaskets dont blow  and oil stays where it should (mostly!) . I now use new fan washers and locktite  instead of high torque settings as old threads and castings are vulnerable after  60 years use. Keeping off motorways is also a good plan. Not supposed to walk back a mile or so to find lost parts.

...  uniformity is the key when there are unspecified values. Use your common sense and remember how these machines were built originally. 

I fell for the 15lb trap when assembling my 88.  I used my latent knowledge and tightened up to 25lb only to find the assembly was solid, I tore it down, checked the dimensions and built up again; torqued in stages at 15lb (no issue), 20lb (tight), at 25lb (solid)...  Another lesson learned.   

I dont think a torque wrench would have seen the assembly line back in 50's. And on that note when did you last calibrate said device??

Cheers

Jon

I found this, may be useful. 

https://youtu.be/fybLYL0WfFY

I have had my torque wrench since 1977. It may not be still in calibration!

Remember, it relies on the bathroom scales being accurate. Also set the wrench to the setting you are calibrating at before you mark it (watch the video, you will see what I mean).

I will check later.

Tony

In theory, the 'bar-and-pointer' type are always accurate if correctly used  unlike the more expensive ratchet type with built in springs.  And the bar-and-pointer type also tell you what the torque is as you are applying it.  But I've never seen a version with a range less than about 150 lb.ft.