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Easy lubrication of Mk3 Swing Arm

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Considering the swing arm and fitting a grease nipple (oil applied) upgrade to my 1997 Mk3.

The original end plugs are in and the chances are no lubricant applied since new!

No grease nipple fitted.

Anybody carried out the temporary removal of both Cotter pins (06.4700) and pouring oil directly onto the swing arm spindle? (06.4699).

I have bulletins on the Mk2 range where a central bolt (14.0101) on the earlier model swing arm assembly can be removed and oil added directly onto the swing arm spindle.

Just a thought!

 

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getting plenty of SAE 140 oil into the sintered bushes is the main goal, and I suspect withdrawing the spindle from RHS is the only way to reliably do that. That would also allow drilling and tapping a top centre hole and to fit a clear tube where top-up reservoir can be provided.

   Maybe, withdrawing spindle to just past the LHS cotter pin, then adding oil through top cotter pin hole, with bluetak to stop unwanted escape, and then pushing it back in slowly would force oil into LHS bush?

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Bits now removed to get at the RH of Swing Arm.

In My opinion (?) - if I can get lubrication to the four felt plug wicks (2 x 06.5230) and felt washer wicks (2 x 06.5229) then lubrication will find its way to the spindle/ bush areas.

Plan to fit a 1/4” UNF grease nipple to swing arm plug for temporary access and inject oil onto the felt wicks.

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is enough going to get to the LHS? if hole all the  way through the spindle, then removing RHS plug( drill and tap) will allow plenty of oil to be got into spindle hole.Leaning bike over and let it sit for a while.

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As Jan mentioned, will oil get through the wicks? If the wicks are pre-soaked in EP140 then put in place, they will doubtless allow oil to pass into the bushes for a while.  But trying to force thick oil through the dense felt wicks from one side, especially when they are compressed in the spindle bore seems a challenge?  This is why I elected to replace the Mk3 welch washers and wicks with the earlier end-plates and through bolt. The earlier arrangement allows oil to transit easily from right to left.  On my previous Mk3, this arrangement worked well, without appreciable leakage past the Mk3 swinging arm to cradle oil seals, so I have repeated this with my current Mk3.

Andy

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Many years ago I worked out a way of providing constant lubrication to my 1969 Commando swing arm. This involved removing the spindle and grinding a small area where the bushes ran and drilling two small holes through to the hollow section of the spindle. ( The grinding removes the hardening )

Next the swing arm locating bolt had another bolt welded to it so as the two hexes were joined. Then this new fitting was drilled so as to provide a new oil gallery. The bolt was reinstated and a clear plastic tube was fitted and oil was introduced. The oil ran down the tube and into the hollow spindle and dripped out adjacent to the bushes through the new holes. I would fill the plastic tube with oil and leave over night and put a tray under the swing arm

The plastic tube only requires the odd addition of oil from time to time and can be secured with a zip tie and some sort of plug  with a breather hole. A friend of mine uses a master cylinder off a Jap bike to hold the oil under the seat.

It is important not to drill out the spindle locating bolt too big as your safety relies on it. I sold my Commando to a friend 25 years ago and my modification still works. I think I used engine oil and pumped the oil into the plastic tube by way of an oil can which was a neat fit into the plastic tube.

It was 30 years ago so my memory is a little vague however I hope you get the principle.

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Remove the RHS welch plug (by drilling,tapping and  pulling the plug with stud bar and a large socket as a spacer )  

Get a new welch plug, drill and tap for a screwed plug, or for an easier, less messy method of lubricating use a small fitting that can have a pipe attached, then run the pipe to a small remote brake caliper reservoir mounted in a suitable place. When the welch plug is out take a 3mm drill and run it through the RHS felt wick plug, this allows the oil to reach the LHS felt plug. (this is outlined in the service notes) You don't have fit the pipe/reservoir assembly, just use the screwed plug but you have to top up the spindle using a syringe or oil gun.

On my Mk3 i made a small banjo fitting and silver soldered a large hypodermic needle into the banjo bolt to feed oil directly into the center of the spindle. 

The recommended oil is EP140 but EP90 will do or engine oil if nowt else, any oil is better than nothing. I use a 320 grade gearbox oil as that is what i have available, it still leaks out and down the cradle!

The earlier bikes that have the little bolt holding the spindle in can have the bolt drilled with a tiny hole, tapped for a small model engine tank fitting and a pipe attached or the end cap drilled and tapped for the same purpose.

 



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