Primary Cover/Foot Peg Assembly Tips

Check there is the loose spacer  on the stud  between engine plates that stops the plates being bent in. Check that the bracket and its bolt at the rear of the innercase is not pulling the case about ,shim if need be.Check that the outer case bottom flange has clearance to the propstand bracket  after its all tight  and if necessary remove again   grind away a clearance. Be very carefull not to crossthread the outercase retaining nut as you will have to remove all to replace the sleeve..Use sealer on gasket and  screw  fixings at the engine end to avoid leaks. Use sealer around and in  the alternator cable grommet.Be wary of failure of the clutch spider internal stop which will allow the clutch to attack the  box  sleeve gear and sometimes the  innercase . 

If this is a restoration and the engine plates and foot peg tubes are freshly painted, ensure the dogs on the foot peg tubes are fully home in the engine plates, otherwise the outer cover could be distorted when tightening.

If the clutch pressure plate is running too close to the outer cover (as mine was) when the clutch lever is pulled in, the inner cover mounting bracket can be shimmed at the gearbox bottom bolt and the hexagon top mounting, to bring the cover out  a little.

Suspend the foot pegs at the right height (I use tree support straps as I have plenty of them) from the frame rails while doing up the nuts on the long foot peg stud.

I used silicone on the chaincase band to inner chaincase joint and red rubber grease on the band to outer joint. Ensure the sealing band is on the correct way. Don’t over tighten the nut on the outer chaincase. The book says two threads - I just let it clear the teeth on the foot peg tube and no leaks so far. 

... the type of silicone. I used low modulus Wurth sealant on mine which is relatively low strength. Mind you I have't tried to get it off in the last 3 years......