Tank Badge Mounting

Hi. My original tank came with badges mounted directly against the tank. HOWEVER - beware! I had my tank re-painted and it looks gorgeous, having had several coats of silver paint and clear-coat applied to it. I fitted the tank badges after a week of the tank sitting on my bench but the paint/top coat has blistered slightly where the edges of the badges have dug in slightly in a couple of places. So maybe I should have left the tank a lot longer to really cure - I don’t know. So, if you’ve had your tank repainted, you might want to leave it to cure for several weeks or perhaps consider using a thin rubber backing behind the badges.

Good luck

Regards

Tony

If the badges have been plated the polishing process can change the shape a bit   ,a thin rubber base sounds good 

When you are ready to install the badges on the tank be very careful with the size and length of the screws.

They are unusual insofar that they are 3BA (British Association) and if they are too long could have a deleterious effect on the tank sides. My machine is a 1965 650SS, just in case the thread size was altered in subsequent years.

Anthony Bolton 

Sorry if I am a little late to the party. I was on the Andover Norton site this morning and noticed that in the tank fittings section of the slimline area, the photograph clearly shows a black rubber seal/beading behind the chromed badge. 

AN do not stock the rubber item on that page but it is a definite clue that something probably should be there.

You might make a beading for the edge of the badge with number plate or rear lamp to mudguard beading material, which is available cheaply and could be secured to the badge with clear silicone RTV or alternative adhesive. You could even cut out a shape just larger than the badge out of inner tube! I have done just that for my rear light gasket.

My bike came with only one badge attached directly to the tank with associated paint damage and rust after 30 years in a shed. As the bike is never going to be a "conkers" originality contender, I am saving money on the very expensive new badges and going for transfers. Therefore I do have a timing side badge in fair re-chromable condition if anyone is interested.

The British motor industry (and probably every other one) often used to apply bright strips to body shells, and the snap fasteners rusted, the edges of the strips cut into the paint, and they all ended up rusty.  Did Norton do any better?  My friend in the car body repair trade was very upset with me for not polishing the car.  He told me to keep the body well waxed, especially along the trim strips.

That's what I do... it's water proof and gives a little when the pressure comes on from the fixing  screws.  Do the three screws up evenly, and not over tight.  If the threads are as good as original  they will be fine.  If they are damaged, a little thread lock will ensure they come off only when you want them to.

 ALAN: I have the drive side as a spare which may be retrievable if you want it (foc).  They tell me   chrome spray paint is as good as anything for a "non conker".

Jon

Thanks for the very kind offer Jon.

The tank was leaking from at least two of the threaded holes. In order not to spend too much time and effort trying to seal the backs of the threaded bits, I had them welded up with the rest of the leaks.

Maybe we could get together to sell the “pair” of badges? Have you seen what Norvil are charging for a “new” pair of badges now?

Alan

Mine is scruffy but if you accept that a viable refinish is with paint then pairing them up may be an option. Anyone had success with chrome paint?
 

Jon

Alan,

On AN select Slimline Singles and Twins on the drop down, then find the tank fittings photo section.

The preparation and the closing of  "blow holes" is the issue. You are welcome to the drive side  one if you want to make up a pair; I also have a timing side chrome panel off a 1957 type tank if  anyone is in need.

J

I have sent you a PM.

Alan

I do not recall ever coming across a Slimline tank with a rubber mounted badge. Knee grips on the outside....yes..... but nothing inside.  Also there does not appear to be a part number for such items.

Having had a badge come loose and spoil the tank paintwork I think an underside seal / cushion / mat or whatever would be a good idea. An alternative cheapo version could be some of that sticky back clear plastic used in schools to laminate signs and workcards.