Charging Problem

You don't say it but I presume it did work, if so I would be looking at the earthing arrangement for the regulator

The rectifier has 3 or 4 terminals, the 3 terminal type earths through the central bolt to the frame and then back to the battery (ie not reliable and prone to failing from corrosion). Modern 4 terminal one have a dedicated earth terminal that has a wire which can either go to frame or battery terminal. If you have a 4 terminal ground to frame then modify to go to battery terminal, normally positive unless a DPO have converted to negative earth.

Electronic regulators can be wrecked if fitted to the wrong battery polarity. You should have positive (red) earth, but people change them sometimes, perhaps when fitting Electronic ignition (or radio...!)

Does it have a three phase alternator or a three wire single phase one. The way to check is count the poles in the stator. A single phase one has six poles, a three phase one has nine poles. It might be a mismatch of fitted components. 

Has the alternator got continuity between the windings if its got 2 or 3 wires (single or 3 phase) check for resistance between wires. Should get a small resistance. Also check if any of windings are going to earth, they should be totally isolated. If they are going to earth the windings are shot. If everything is OK test volts output when running at leads before regulator, you should be getting high voltages ie lot higher than 12v. If volts are good then alternator is OK. 

Go to http://aoservices.co.uk/ on the web and click on the orange box in the top right hand corner marked 'electrical advice and info' What is the history behind this bike? Did you buy it fresh from restoring? Or from a friend etc 

The green/black and green/yellow should be joined. That's one side of the AC generator. The white/green is the other side. Each side goes to one or other of the yellows. The red should be +ve, and black -ve.

You don't need the light switch to cut out part of the alternator if you have a modern rectifier. You need the same two outputs as Holger's diagram shows for RM21 by joining green/black with green/yellow to provide one of the two outputs so it behaves like RM21.

The common is the white/green.  If you look at the photo attachment with my earlier mail, you will see that the green/yellow has two coils working side by side together, and the green/black has one. So resistance between wg to gb will be twice as big as it is between wg and gy. Sounds like yours is probably OK (but I don't know values)

The resistance of the alternator wires is not crucial, this is near enough. As long as there is no short to earth on the alternator. There is no point in checking diodes or anything on the reg/rects with a multi meter. If the Podtronics does NOT produce anything useful, then replace it with a traditional 4 terminal rectifiers. ALL rectifiers used on Lucas alternators on all big British bikes are Bridge rectifiers and have 4 terminals. This restore the charge, but do NOT go roaring down the road as you have no regulation!! Keeping the lights on 'should' make it safe for a short run/test. Watch battery voltage-NOT above 15V please.

Hitchcocks (Enfield spares people) sell a plastic strip whose length is exactly the circumference of the rotor - just put the rotor on, then the stator on with the nuts lightly tightened and push the plastic strip fully around the rotor. That centres the rotor in the stator. Then tighten the stator nuts fully and remove the plastic strip. An alternative to buying the strip is to make one out of a large plastic milk carton - just make sure it’s the correct length.

Regards

Tony

You won't get 20 thou in the rotor stator gap! the minimum is 8 thou but I would suggest a 10 thou strip. Don't be tempted to file the holes to slide the stator to get the fit, if the nuts slacken the stator will then slide back to NO GAP. It is allowed to file the inside of the stator with care but a wire can easily 'appear' within the encapsulation. In desperation you can turn a few thou. off the rotor, but it it is a hard job as the steel filings stick to the magnet.

Back to the above posts re wiring. There does not need to be any light switch wiring/alternator wiring involved with the light switch  GRN/BLK plus GRN/YLW to one YLW    WHT/GRN to other YLW. on the reg/rect.