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Yet another problem with the "fully restored " Dommie 99. Having re-built the "re-built" forks, I noticed there was a thick nylon spacer under the steering head, ie, on top of the bottom yoke. A strip down to investigate revealed it had 13 bearings in the bottom race, 5/16" diameter.  After replacing them with the correct 18  1/4" bearings, the headstock is now  pressing on the bottom yoke before the slack is taken up. On Andover's parts drawing, there is a washer, item 41, I can't make out where that should go, if it should be under the bottom race, that would probably give the clearance. Does'nt seem a normal arrangement though, advice please, should there be a washer under the bottom race, or are the races so worn there is no clearance ?

Regards all, Terry.

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I think the washer under the bottom race was not needed except to make race removal easier. Something odd about your forks. Parts mixture?.

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Thanks Robert, the yokes appear to be the originals but someone, sometime has been in there, hence the wrong size balls in the bottom race. I can't see the race and original balls being so worn there was no clearance between headstock and bottom yoke. I'll have to strip it all out again and have a detailed look. 

Wish I could find a proper parts diagram !

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been reground to suit the 5/16" balls?  It is possible that the races were worn, and reground.  If that is the case, the 1/4" balls will not match the profile of the races, and allow the yoke to sit too close to the frame.  You may be refitting those 5/16" balls.....

When I checked my lower races, they were very worn, so I replaced them with standard SKF taper rollers.  They are a bit taller than the standard set-up, so I had to play a bit with the headlamp brackets, but otherwise straight in.  Cheaper and better than standard.

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Thanks for the above, they must be the original 1/4" ball races as the 5/16 balls had raised the headstock off the bottom yoke, hence the gap filler ( which I have since noticed it is part of a cap from a large drum). Assuming I find no pitting in the top races, I will replace the bottom with a taper roller and leave the top with the new  1/4 balls, that may reduce the height issues. 

Hey ho.....

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After stripping the headstock races out, lower race off the stem as well , it's now clear what was going on -  both top and bottom bearings, marked 3205, are 5/16" caged ball bearings. 25x52x15. (The 30205 taper rollers are 25x52x16.25 by the way). What the depth of the factory uncaged 1/4 balls are , not sure, but the depth of the outer race recess in the headstock is 9/16"  (14.3mm). That means  the 3205 bearings should have been OK.     ?    The bottom bearing came out as a set of caged balls, lower race still on the stem, and the upper race stayed in the bottom of the headstock. Now, when I drove the upper bearing out, it came out as a bearing assembly. BINGO. The pratt who had put the deep nylon packer in the gap between the headstock and bottom yoke had left the ball set NOT HOME in the two races !!!!     Dickhead !    He had obviously driven the bottom yoke and stem out for some reason and parted the bearing assembly. Banged home into the race, it would have been OK.  Me putting the 1/4" balls in to the 5/16 races meant the bottom bearing depth had closed up, making it impossible to set the adjustment. 

New bearings Monday.

 

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oops, just checking the Simply Bearings website for replacement options and realise I said the ball bearings I removed were 3205 . After the short walk  from workshop to house to write things down, the brain had failed me - again-  they are actually 7205. Simply Bearings have 7205 taper rollers in the imperial size, 9/16" depth as original, so no problem with the upper shrouds, but they're over £40 each plus vat. 

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is a good thing to find.  I don't remember what the SKF bearing I fitted is, but it was a bit wider, so creates a depth issue.  I fitted a rubber U section around the top of my headlamp brackets, but I think it has escaped.  Must check some time. If so, I might do something about it....

Is the bearing 1" x 2" x 9/16" ?  I fitted mine in 1983 or 4, so please excuse lack of memory.

Paul

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The dims for the 7205 that Simply Bearings list are : 24.98x52.07x14.22.  I measured the bearings I took out and that's what they were. As near as dammit 1"x2"x 9/16".

After cleaning and inspecting them, considering the height difference caused by the cheap 30205 taper rollers, I put the blighters back in, properly assembled, just to prove a point. Result, a smooth headstock and adjustable to perfection, they're staying in !

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If your head races are only mildly worn, it is a useful dodge to refit them at 90 degrees to their previous location.  Most of the wear is fore-and-aft. What I do on bicycles is to mark the races with a felt tip pen at the front, and turn one race left, and the other one right.  That way the worn spots are apart from each other, and a second life for the races is easy.  New balls are a good idea.

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Bicycles ! 1)  I haven't ridden a bike since the early sixties, a pity really  

                 2) Paul,  you're as tight as me !  ( sorry, " thrifty " !   )

                 3) and I forgot to mark them when I drifted them out, they went back in random,

                  4) looks like I got away with re-using some mighty old bearings , balls and races

It's all part of the fun, I'm missing some good Wednesday rides though while pushing hard to get this old girl back on the road. Honda and Triumph standing in for a Norton.

What will I find wrong next ?

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I simply replaced my Atlas open ball bearings with Commando sealed bearings and appropriately sized spacer tube.  As these bearings seem to last forever on the Commando and are maintenance free, it was an easy decision.

Andy

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That sounds like a good option, I did'nt  consider that and I bet those bearings are pretty cheap too, and, once fitted, no need for adjusting the head bearings , the stem is pre-set with the spacer.

I like it.

Oh well, the two angular races now fitted are substantial bearings, I think they will outlast me. 

 



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