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Pilot jet on a 376 Monobloc

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Hi. I’ve fitted a new Amal Monobloc 376 to my Dommie 99 project. The only reliable way that I can get the bike to start and run is to have the air screw  wound out by 2.25 full turns from the bottomed ‘home’ position.

I read somewhere that if the air screw is wound out by more than 2 full turns, the screw is ineffective and the air is actually being controlled by the throttle slide cutaway. Anyone know if that’s correct?

My carb came from Burlen with a 25 pilot jet and a number 3 throttle slide. Do you think that I could get the air screw closer to the 1.5 turns out ‘ideal’ setting by fitting a 20 pilot jet?

Thanks

Regards

Tony

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I would say its worth an experiment.   It may be that the new carb is being manufactured to closer tollerances  which is creating more "pull"  than  before, making the old settings less relevant.

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Being a new carb it is possible that dust or even some swaff are blocking the jets and/or passageways. Take out all the external screws and jets and blow them through either with compressed air or something like WD 40.  I have not used a 376 for years but would have thought that 2 turns out was close to correct.

Attachments might be of some help.

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Concentric is best between 1 and 2 turns with a default starting point of 1.5 turns. The tuning guide for the Mono is silent on the default starting position for the air screw so 2 turns could be the right figure or not.

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I used an old ColourTune to set pilot screw.  It's quite a good application because you want it just nearly at a rich position so as not to bog down when opening the throttle quickly.

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Bringing the pilot jet down a size is what I would do.

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Thanks everyone. The carb was cleaned thoroughly before it was fitted. It’s also been back to Burlen where they cleaned, tested and adjusted it. They couldn’t find any issues. I’ll try reducing the pilot jet size and see if that helps.

One thing I’ve noticed is that when I can actually get the engine running, it ‘hunts’ at tickover. The tickover revs aren’t stable - they go up a bit, then the engine slows down a bit, then it settles for a couple of seconds before going up and down again. Does that sound like over-fuelling (rich)?

Thanks again

Regards

Tony

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Hi Tony,

Quite often,  hunting at tickover can be due to varying ignition advance - can be quite common with mechanical advance/retard units. Ignore this if you have electronic ignition.

Also, I seem to remember you mentioning that you have a triumph as well? If so, and it starts and idles properly, have you tried fitting the/one of the carbs from that and see how it goes?

Regards, George 

 

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Hi George. Thanks for your input. The ignition is Pazon Surefire electronic. I did try a different carb and that worked very well but it has a 3.5 carb slide with a 25 pilot. The new carb has a 3.0 carb slide and 25 pilot - defined by Burlen as being the correct items for a 99. I thought I’d try a smaller pilot jet first as it’s the cheaper option. If that fails to cure the problems, I’ll buy a 3.5 slide and refit the 25 pilot.

Regards

Tony

 

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Hi. I’ve now tried the smaller pilot air jet (original supplied was 25 so I tried a 20). It doesn’t seem to give any real improvement. The tickover is still uneven and ‘lumpy’ most of the time - it seems to have an occasional, but regular, ‘stumble’. It goes:

Bom-Bom-Bom-——Bom-Bom-Bom-Bom-—-Bom-Bom-Bom

I’m guessing that it’s over-fuelling as screwing in the pilot air screw below 1.5 turns just makes the bike cut out and screwing it out to 2.5 turns from bottomed out improves things but doesn’t get me to a reliable steady tickover.

The pickup when the throttle twist grip is cracked open is instant without faltering and it sounds very strong.

Does the needle position have any effect at tickover - I don’t think it does but I’d appreciate confirmation or otherwise. I’m thinking of dropping the needle by one notch but if it’s not going to affect the tickover, there’s no point.

My final bit of tinkering will be to try a 3.5 throttle slide (number 3 is fitted as standard). If that fails to improve things, I think I’ll be looking at fitting a Concentric. This is my first Monobloc - I never have theses problems with Concentrics but love the look of the Monobloc.

Thanks

Regards

Tony

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Thats disapointing,   Have you checked the fuel level?  , might be worth dropping it a mm , If the needle valve body sits on a fibre washer ,try leaving it out.

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Hi Robert. Thanks for that suggestion. I haven’t checked the fuel level yet - I’ll need to make myself a Perspex float chamber cover over the weekend.

Regards

Tony

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That would be  very nice,and in keeping with the helpfull attitude we are trying to maintain in this great  club.  My workshop bench  at the moment is half the top of a washing machine (if the wife allows) ,   I think that new monos  now come with that fibre washer under the seating that raises the fuel level, never needed one before so something has changed ?, try without.  

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No need for a perspex cover, drill and tap a spare bottom main jet cover for a threaded pipe and fit a plastic tube onto the pipe. Open the fuel tap and with the plastic pipe held vertical against the float chamber cover compare the fuel level to the cast pip on the float chamber cover. You want as close to the pip as possible. Burlen now make shims to adjust the float needle housing for fuel height adjustment.

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Thanks John. My stock of old Monobloc parts isn’t as good as my Concentric collection (junk box), hence the reason for going for the Perspex float chamber cover option.

Regards

Tony

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Remember the perspex cover doesn't need to be pretty. Mine is only roughly square and well oversize. Only the three holes need to be reasonably accurate, and it's easy to mark them out through the clear plastic, and easy to drill if the cover is oversize.  Took a couple of minutes to make (but of course you need the perspex...mine was from a garden shed window I think).

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I checked the Jampot Archive on Monobloc tuning.  The data can be found here:

http://archives.jampot.dk/technical/Carburation/Amal_Monobloc__numbers_type_and_use.pdf

If you scroll down, you will find that the Monobloc carburetor fitted to Model 77 and 99 Nortons was the 376/67

1 1/16" bore, 25 pilot jet, 3 cut-away, 250 main jet, .106 needle jet, needle on 3rd clip

The standard starting position for the pilot screw on Monoblocs is 1 1/4 turns out. In most cases you do not need to go beyond the range 1 turn out to 1.5 turns out. The pilot jet on Amal carburetors (except TT) meters fuel, so if you have to wind your pilot needle out 2 turns, it is too far out and still not allowing enough fuel through.  That suggests you need a LARGER pilot jet, not a smaller one.  If 25 is too lean, try a 30.

Should you decide that the Monobloc body on your bike is too worn for further service, just find a body of the right bore size.  Service it, and fit jets and other minor components to the spec you need for your bike.  The /?? number just denotes the build spec and does not matter at all (unless you are building a garage queen which needs to look perfect but does not need to work).

Paul

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Hi Paul,  you might want to think again about your paragraph on pilot jet adjustment. It would be correct if you were talking about a Dellorto carb ,some of which work the opposite to an Amal.

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I think that is very important to make parts new buy new needle and Needle Jet ,(needlo jet is durig ears oval)

pilot jet

.trottle must be without clearence in all positions

on my monoblocks I have 2 on 650ss I must complete dismaint all and take 3 times to ultrasound

after that runs much better but without little slips i think will never be. its old think and old conception.

i found big clearence on trotle screvs i make new. still some fight with this carburettors :-)

good luck to you

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I have been following the above discussion with great interest and have learned a lot so thanks everyone.

But one small comment Tony have you checked for air leaks around the carb manifold and heat isolation piece, also when fitting my new monoblock to my Navigator I was a bit concerned that the cap on the top of the carb (cable entry point) had a good seal as I think if it had a poor fitting it could give tick over issues.

Steven

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Hi Steven. Thanks for your input. I checked for air leaks at the manifold and all is good there. As for the screw on ring at the top, I hadn’t thought about that, although the top ‘plate’ fits well and the screw on ring is tightly fitted so I hope there isn’t a leak there. I’ve improved the tickover by fitting a 3.5 throttle slide and a 20 pilot jet. The tickover still isn’t perfect but the bike is now usable.

Regards

Tony

 



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