Why won’t it start?

I would remove the filter and squirt some fuel into the carb and kick it over . If it fires up for a few seconds you know that fuel is the problem. This halves the things to check.

Is it sparking just before top dead centre?  Because if not, you will never get it running.  It can only be fuel or ignition - unless the valve timing is way out, but then you wouldn't get good compression.

Get rid of the filter, wet the intake with fuel or easy start if all is set up well it will fire. To do that without wetting is now the trick. I am a singles man at heart and loathed to open the throttle during start up in fear of flooding.  But with a Twin you do need a reasonable amount of open throttle to get the fuel flowing.

 So once we are firing by wetting then you need to experiment with throttle position, choke setting, fuel flood level but with the knowledge it does work when the conditions are right.

 I got to ask…    …you are timing the ignition to the correct cylinder aren’t you?

Also electronic ignition systems shut down if the voltage is marginal. Measure at the battery and the device to ensure you do not have a high resistance connection. I would want to see a full 12 volts to be comfortable.

 Good luck

Jon

Tony, are you tickling the carb until the float bowl is full?

('My cup runneth over,' as the Bishop said to the actress, or was it the other way round?)

Also, as said, ensure you have max charge in your battery, until you get it going at least.

I had a dodgy new coil on my restored 99, but these were X2 6v jobs as per Commando.

Good luck.

If it is electronic ignition and wasted spark, you are correct that it makes no difference which lead goes which side.  If plugs really are dry, that's the most likely issue.  Is the carb flooding when you push the button?  Timing is of course the other matter. Is this the first one you've done?  Even if you've done it a few times before, it's all too easy to make a mistake...even to set it after tdc instead of before!

Sounds like two problems, you should have big sparks, and the fact the plug is not wetting after so much kicking suggests lack of fuel. If you are sure the spark is happening at the right time resolve the other two. 

whip out a plug heat it up with a blowtorch  [not too much] small squirt of fuel through plug hole replace plug and kick.

then have a coffee......works for me every time 

My money would be on the Ignition Timing being wrongly set. Don't these kits have two setting positions to cover Dominator and Commando? 

Pazon sets have a reputation for giving a good spark with an easy kick or low battery. Perhaps there is a high resistance in the sparky end of the system.

... a squirt of petrol I'd use easy start. If there is any sort of spark at approximately thye right time that will get if firing up.

Two possible holes for ignition static timing, one for clockwise and the other for anti clockwise rotation of rotor, Commando and Dommie may be different due to different location of points plate giving different rotations so worth checking you are using right hole of the 2.

Remove condensers if they are still wired in!

Hi Tony!

Did you try START PILOT? When I was desparate kicking my ES2 I finally used Start Pilot - a mixture of methylpenten, diethylether, diisopropylether and propan which is sprayed directly into the manifold. If the engine starts you should have a look at the float chamber afterwards.Good luck!

Hans Heitmann

...only after first bypassing that switch I hope?

At ignition unit. To prove or eliminate this as a cause, wire it direct to battery terminal.  If it works you won’t have to worry about carbs. If it doesn’t you don’t have to worry about circuitry.

J

Just remember, the petrol issue are ALWAYS electrical, the Electrical issues are always Petrol!

The ignition 'cut off' switch is easy-ignition 'cut off'-no spark. Ignition 'on' spark!

Has always been very good for me. I’m sure they would be interested to see what is causing the flow issue.  
Glad it’s resolved in time for spring!
cheers

Jon

Just a quick add on regarding  the problem with the new carb, I wondered if the tank was clean inside or you had fitted a fine mesh filter in the fuel line , I have known these to melt with the higher ethanol in the  fuel and the white plastic ones dissolve as you mentioned to the fine white powder, of course it ran on the old worn carb but thought that the description of worn and leaks a bit may mean the internal fuel ways will be allowing enough fuel through to keep it going. Just a thought . good luck either way it sounds like you are nearly sorted . 

Hi Tony,

You are perfectly safe with that fuel as long as it carries the red label, so worry not.

While I'm here I have to tell you that my almost finished Dommie racer has similar carb issues. I bought a new 928 about a year ago (88 engine) but now I can't tickle any fuel out.  I have had the engine running.  I'll start with the carb filter and then the in line.

The tank is a new 5 gal alloy manx type. I washed it out with warm soapy water and emptied that into a brand new washing up bowl, finding some fine particles, so washed it out some more.

With it not tickling it could be the tank and two filters?.Been too busy building an ES2 engine. If anyone has a good spare pushrod tube then that would be nice.

Several times on here it is mentioned that you bought a carb some years ago but only got round to using it 'last week' But of course the seller only guarantees for a year or so. I sell electrical goods ,they are guaranteed for a year. New goods sold must be guaranteed  for  'time' they cannot be millage or 'when you get round to using them'. It is always a shame if goods fail in short-millage but many years old, shame but this where we are. I often try to help with any failure in low millage or even out of guarantee if I can. But guarantees must be in TIME.

Just for balance....my pair of monoblocs from Burlen via Surrey Cycles have been faultless. And the 88SS  prefers them to the previous pair of 28mm concentric.