Oil supply valve

Brings up a lot of choice.

Highest rated seems to be the Kingpin Components tap with ignition cut out on it, rather than a ball&spring type.

Me? I don't have one so this 'choice' is purely through reading the various comments made on the forums. 

From an engineering perspective,  a full flow tap has to be better than a 'vacuum' controlled ball valve, but reality is probably that there is no real concern with using either.

Hope this helps,

George. 

I won't rehearse the obvious objections to taps.

Last winter I fitted the Holland Norton Works anti-wet-sumping valve and have found it entirely satisfactory so far. It is very nicely made and appears well thought-out in detailed design; more details here (you will need to scroll a long way down, or search for "#H08": https://www.hollandnortonworks.eu/en/exclusive-commando-parts

To answer your question a reduced bore is fine as long as you are sensible.

Look at the size of the hole in the oil junction block, and the inside diameter of the metal pipe, then look at the size of the drillings in the oil pump itself  - these are massively reduced in comparison to the ID of the hose that comes from the oil tank.

Consider the Pingel valves, they are a little spendy, but superb quality, flow well and are not prone to leaking.

Looking at this with interest.  Has anyone tried the RGM automatic non-return valve, or have any experience or advice on this?

look up Magneto guys, tap with ignition cut out safety facility

I remember reading somewhere here that a member made a shutoff valve that used the ignition key.  

When you shutdown the bike you removed your ignition key and used it to turn off a valve in the oil supply line.

The brilliant part of the conversion was that with the oil supply valve shutoff with the key, the key could not be removed until the valve was turned back to the on position.  This prevented starting the engine with the oil supply shut off.

Mike

Mine is wired to the horn. If I forget to open the oil tap the horn sounds when I switch on the ignition. I used the microswitch on the oil tap and a relay to energise the horn. I have electronic ignition and did not fancy wiring the switch in to that. Pazon systems are prone to frying if you get it wrong.

Dennis

On the Velo, I have their automatic anti-wetsumping valve. Oil leaks through it.

The two BSA unit singles has the original anti-wetsumping .valves. They wetsumps.

The Vincent has a manual tap, which leaks slightly. When forgetting to open it, you can ride a few of miles with no ill effects as it has roller big end bearings..A Norton twin had not survived.

The Manx wet sumps slightly, but I always change oil between races. No problem.

The 16H is rarely used, so no big problem draining the crankcase before starting it.

The 650SS blew the oil seal so that most of the oil in the crankcase filled the primary case.