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Dommie Primary Chaincase nut

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I believe I have built the engine/plates etc correctly. The rear chaincase fitted a dream. The alternator and clutch and chain - no probs. But... the primary chaincase cover - with rubber seal lightly lubed with red silicon grease will not go on far enough to allowing me to get the rubber seal/finisher washer and chrome nut onto it’s thread. 
I’ve tried without the rubber washer and finisher and I can get the nut on - just. Very fearful of warping the cover.What am I doing wrong? Photos attached.

Steve

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The original sealing band was slightly tapered in cross section. It also had a small 1.5mm lip on one edge. Some replacements are just rectangular in section.  Measure the thickness of the inner and outer faces to check. Or.....turn belt inside out or turn 180* and try a refit.

Looking at your photograph I think you are only around one thread away from the outer being about right.

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You boys are great!

I do have the lugs located properly Robert. However the ‘new’ rubber band is neither a consistent rectangle or tapered - very badly cut.

You have pointed out the problem... I will pursue options to fix - many thanks!

steve

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The band conforms to the spec in terms of section/taper and lip. It’s a very slight taper.

My pic showing the centre nut on is without the rubber oil seal and chrome washer! With those added I am a looong way off getting the centre nut to catch a thread!

in fact, if I remove the rubber band completely and fitted the outer casing the rubber oil seal, chrome washer and centre nut and they all fall into place with a couple of threads showing as proscribed.

Its as though the rubber band is not required at all!!

I do wish my local meet gets going again soon - would be great to have some expertise across a tap room table!!

Steve

 

 

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It does sound as it you have a dodgy band.  Yours is the opposite problem to many as they have usually been overtightened over the years to try and keep the oil in!  This distorts the outer case, as you have surmised.

I have originals from 1955 and 1959 (Museum pieces!) but neither have a lip on them like Phil says.

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Thanks for that Lionel.

It appears that the rubber band is way too big for the job.

I need to start eliminating potential probs - so I think I’ll start with a new band. 

Current one bought late last year from Andover as part 06.7627... and according to Andover same as part numbers A2/486 and NM 13185. Which is interesting because Norvil say 067627 is for Dynamo and Alternator types and A2486 is for Dynamo types .

RGM have 060398 - which looks a lot thinner and says it’s for pre MK3. And cheap at £2.20.

This strategy could get expensive but I’m tempted to order from RGM and see what it is. 
Unless anybody got a better idea?

I really hope I don’t have to buy new inner and outer chaincases !
 

 

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I might have a spare OLD band  ,bit stretched .  Where are you Steve?. I'm in Bromley Kent. What happened to your old Band?  They can be shortenned.

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Kind offer Robert - I’m near Newark now so swaps are a bit ambitious! Built so far from a box of bits with no previous experience so many will say no wonder I have these challenges! I don’t mind spending a little if I can get the right solution... but the missing factor is meeting local guys who have had the same/similar experiences. But I won’t be beaten!!

steve

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Has to be something simple or we will never  get to the bottom of it !!.  Could be worth trying an old seal as they get thinner  with age  and when stretched. New alternator  holding case off?. Run out of beer?,

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Odd because my Dommie has the usual rectangular band with the lip on the outer edge facing out. My old friend's featherbed ES2 had a slightly less bulky wedge shaped band (which incidentally sealed perfectly..annoyingly). Anyway...the Dommie band was the larger.

Is the inner chain case flush to the crank case or has someone added some kind of spacers? None of the manuals is very clear about sealing tinware, and the parts list diagrams aren't a lot of help.

I have a similar problem with my 16H. I've been trying to work out if there is any way to extend the peg support but can't think of one. But on the Dommie, it is a separate item I believe, so maybe you just have the wrong one.

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David & Robert

inner case fitted flush to crankcase - with gasket. Alternator / clutch not holding outer off. Only one serrated peg mount length.

I’m not a religious chap but praying the thinner pre MK3 rubber will do the job. Worst case is I have mismatched inner and outer cases... not thinking that far.

Progressing onto gin.... awaiting parts.

Steve

 

 

 

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In the absence of any info on restarting Club nights - Is there a person on here who lives near enough to Farnsfield - NG22 8LD - who has Dommie experience, to make a home visit? 
Reasonable expenses paid, tea/coffee and biscuits provided during consulting and probably a bottle of something to take home if successful.

Yours in desperation.

Steve

PS - I’ve written to Andover, Norvil and RGM setting out the problem with pics. Andover have replied and have no idea. Awaiting other responses.

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You could try ringing Pete Lovell who makes stuff for Norvil and does most of their machining. He got me to measure the threaded part on my '55 ES2 chaincase mount as he was going to make some. He may know if there is a difference between models ref the thread length.

0121 558 2110

 

In reply to by ian_goodhall

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Rubber bands have grown over time. Plus they used to have a much more pronounced taper. What you buy today are much bigger in section and with a lot less taper.

He suggest find a mate with the kit to taper the band - may need a couple of goes - this will solve the problem.

What a bloke!

I’m on it!!

Steve

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I just pushed a tape measure into the outer cover inspection hole. It is almost exactly 60mm from the face of the inner cover to the edge of the lip around the inspection hole. This on a 1963 slimline. I should be able to measure from the engine plates to the cover later. You might just have the wrong length support tube.

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At great risk of a Lynching Mob turning up ans stringing me up by a large rubber sealing band......... After my Atlas was nudged over in a car park the previously perfectly sealing primary cases were never the same. Consequently I had to turn to one of the Bodger's famous fixes. In my case a layer of Silicone goo in both the inner and outer case inner corners. A smear of grease on the band helped with later removal. You otherwise need a crow-bar. Woked for me.

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This chain-case was notorious for being bent in by the chrome nut being put on then the foot rest hanger tightened after, this bent the out case inward. IF then some one tried to take this inward bend OUT and in-fact went a bit too far!! Then the outer case would stand proud in the middle?

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Al

thanks for wading in... during my test build I had both inner and outer tested and outer flattened back to “standard” on a bench press.

Pete Lovell suggested this might be the problem - but I think he was kidding!

I am constantly checking the flatness of the outer - it’s flat across its whole rim.

in theory I would need to depress the middle of the outer (without bending it out at its edges) by about .3”. Surely too far? ... but maybe a solution for an engineering shop.

Norvil now tell me there were four different lengths of hangar / serrated tube from 3.5” up to 4.415”from face of engine plate to tip of serrations. (Since 1932). I’m awaiting an answer on which I should have, part numbers etc. Best measurement on mine suggests it might be a little short of 4.415” but I’m gonna have to strip it to find out - will not a problem.

I am expecting fellow member Jon Newton calling this eve to apply some additional skills - he’s bringing some older rubber bands.

I really am looking forward to pestering you about 12v and EI.

Steve

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Just spoken to machine shop who straightened outer case for me - quite possible they pulled centre out - thus losing required threads on hangar tube.

They suggest fitting without rubber band so that can get nut on and slowly - one turn at a time tighten up - check with band fitted and repeat. Keeping an eye on bowing whole casing.

This fits Al’s theory and is something simple like Robert suggested.... and Pete Lowell’s “joke” turns out to be a fact!

Steve

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I’m now about 1 thread of getting the nut on with its rubber washer and chrome finisher - with big sealing band.

I’m confident that you have cracked it!

Thanks Al for the starter and all who patiently contributed. Every day is a school day and I’ve just reinforced a lesson learned some time ago and Robert pointed out - the bigger the problem appears the more likely there is a simple solution!

I’ll be back with another one shortly, no doubt.

Steve

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Seriously though do check the lengths of the hanger/serrated tube first. I only though there was the one size. But I always hated the tin chain-case and the foot rest mounting it always seemed 'soft' to me when you stood on it. Long ago went over to rear sets.

When I saw the picture of your chain-case it seemed to be bowed out too much and it doesn't take much to loose the thread. Let us know.

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Thanks Al, gradual wind on/off of an old nut and suitable washer “reshaped” the outer chaincase until I could get the pukka rubber seal, chrome finisher and chrome nut in place. With no detectable distortion of the outer case. See pic. Get the forks on now!

steve

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Worry not... cash available - but when we get to electrics you now have an appreciation of who/what you are dealing with!!

steve

 



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