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New Rims?

The wheels on my 500T restoration look to be the originals - both Dunlops rims of the correct size and matching butted spokes. They certainly haven't been rebuilt in the 40 or so years I've known the bike anyway. The rims have half decent chrome but are very buckled so I had hoped to true them up and have them rechromed. Unfortunately having removed the tyres they are badly corroded on the inside and are no good to restore.

So I've now got to make the decision to either take the easy route and get new rims (but which ones?!) or try and find some restorable original Dunlops. I'm not sure of the quality of new British made chrome rims but then trying to find some decent originals (especially the WM3 x 19 rear) will be difficult and expensive. The original spokes look good and I like the idea of keeping them but I'm not sure if that will be possible with new nipples. Just found that new butted spokes are available but only in SS and I'd prefer galvanised steel.

Any thoughts or experience of new rims from members? The wheels I've looked at are the better quality ones from the Devon Rim Company and Central Wheels. Or should I go all out and try to keep things as original as possible? Oh yes and on top of all that I'm going to have a go at rebuilding them myself. My dad always built his own wheels so I feel I should do the same on his old bike!

Thanks

John

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The last two old bikes I've built I went with stainless rims and spokes from Devon Rim Co. No regrets whatsoever. Look good, wipe clean and no rust. Sod chrome. With the amount of salt they put on the roads round here, never mind the cowsh the local farmers spread all over our tarmac, chrome won't last a year. Any more wheels I do will be stainless too. It's not difficult to do them yourself. I bought a decent spoke key and made a simple wooden jig to spin the wheel on.

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I had mixed luck with new rims., The rear rim  has gone rusty despite regular splatter with chain oil, the front rim is ok  (it has a little union jack on it (british chrome).Central sent me a rim with a different spoking pattern than the 1960 Norton build, I did manage it ,but my carefull sketch was no use!. I'm guessing that Norton and AMC did things differently. So now I have different patterns on the wheels. If using just new nipples be aware they need to match the rim holes ,new and old may be different diameter. 

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For the rear wheel on my Mk.III Commando I had a WM3 made up in 19 inch size by Central Wheels.  I paid extra for Elite Chrome and stainless steel spokes and nipples and it is money very well spent.  A wipe over with ACF50 before the winter and a wipe down around April and they still look like new.  I ride all year on back lanes and B roads which can be muddy but the ACF does its job providing you don't wash it off when you clean the rest of the machine.  You might find that a thin layer of GT85 on the inside of the rim when fitting the tyre can slow or prevent corrosion; it doesen't seem to affect the tyre or the inner-tube.  The most likely area of corrosion would be around the holes for the spokes; ACF or No.1 Rust Blocker under the rim-tape can help here too. 

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Thanks for the replies, some food for thought. I had really decided to keep it as original as possible with chrome rims but seems to be mixed opinion on them. Being a trials bike it's very unlikely to see any salty roads and usually spray oil/acf type stuff on my bikes when in storage so maybe chrome will be ok. I wont rule out SS though. Are there any disadvantages like weight or strength?

I like the idea of blasting the spokes to take the shine off them,  definitely doing that, thanks Richard.

I've had a few issues with Central Wheels recently but it was build problems not parts quality.

No suggestions of trying to find some originals for originallity. It's what I'd rather do ideally but it's a lot of work, time and expense just to have Dunlop stamped on the rim.

Thanks

John

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hello  well, some time ago I have used New Devon rims and two years After  the Chrome fell off bit by bit So I never use  Devon Rims again  Jones rims and  Birmingham rims  are a lot better,  And I never use stainless spokes  some are very dangerous  and will break, I only use galvanized spokes   that Norton and other Makers used originally If they were good enough for them there good enough of Me with brass nipples,  Do your research before buying your Anna  J       

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It's not easy to say what spoke material is better. Stainless might (or might not) have different strength from galvanised. But when I cycled, I had regular fatigue failures in galvanised spokes, but no such problems when I went to theoretically weaker stainless. Probably most spokes break through fatigue (lots of cycles of moderate stress) not through overload. And corrosion makes fatigue problems worse.

Sudden massive loads (from potholes etc) cause a big reduction in the small number of spoke tensions at the bottom of the wheel, and a small increase in tension in all the other spokes. Which is why spoked wheels work so very well. 

 

Hello, David, There was a case in MCN some time back of a New type Triumph T100 that had broken a number of spokes on the rear wheel on the Motorway and throw its rider at 60 mph but he was in the slow lane at the time the rear wheel had broken up  and collapsed    the rider was ok  but very  distorted and shaken, the machine was taken back to Hinkley  to find out why this had happened  and they found a  number of weak stainless spokes  and MCN had made a report on this to warn other owners of this danger , Me I have never had any trouble with Galavized spokes over the last 50 years of owning motorcycles  so be careful out there  on what you use in wheel building   now safe riding  yours    anna j

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I've always thought stainless wasn't a good idea for highly stressed components. My dad always fitted galvanised steel spokes and chrome plated brass nipples as he said they were stronger and the brass nipples wouldn't corrode and seize. Seems logical to me. I'd never use stainless bolts on things like suspension or handlebar clamps.

Thanks for your points Anna, although the bike won't be used at high speed on the road it is after all an off road competition bike so strong wheels are important. I'll check out Jones and Birmingham as well.

I'm still hoping to use the original butted spokes which polish up with a bit of Autosol.

I'm starting to get an idea of which way to go with them now. Thanks again for the comments.

John

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I specify my own stainless spokes and other than 8G always up the gauge by 1 and sometimes 2 where the factory got it wrong eg T140 disc rear wheel, never had a spoke break. I also use Stainless rims with no issues but do not use under size on the nipple diameter as some professional builders do for an easy life as pull through is a possibility. 

 



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