Restoration Plan anybody?

Hi Glenn - 

 I like to break my projects down into large groups - not total disassembly. Something like - remove wheels , engine ,             gearbox , forks . I then concentrate on one system at a time . On my current Commando build I built new wheels first . Next I did frame / chassis/ swing arm . Next forks . Next gearbox then cylinder head, cylinders, bottom end in that order . Next installed gearbox and engine in chassis. Next came primary drive group. At this point I am working on the oil supply system - tank , filter , lines , etc.

 I find it easier to focus this way - If I stripped the entire bike down all at once I would run the risk of being overwhelmed. I find it helpful to think of it not as “ I am restoring a motorcycle “ but as  “ I am restoring a gearbox “ or whatever system that I am currently working on.

 I would save money in shipping ( I am in USA and most of my needs come from the big three Norton vendors in the UK ) if I did it differently  because I tend to order only what I need for the current system I am working on plus I inevitably miss something and have to pay for this or that little thing to get across the pond. I rationalize this added expense as part of the cost of staying organized.

As yours is a basket case some of the choices on amount of initial disassembly have been made for you . It may benefit to start with the chassis and then pick another group when the chassis is done. In this way you can install the various groups in the chassis as you complete them and perhaps get a good sense of your progress.

Hope this has been of some help - good luck and I hope you will share your progress with us - Pictures are a plus ! 

Cheers - Richard 

Build a bench to support the bike, I used an old desk with legs cut off..Buld a worktop capable of holding a proper vice. Fit a power point  or two . Buy a halogen light which if positioned behind you will light the work and keep your back warm.Sit on a block of polystyrene ,it will reflect your body heat back to you.Insulate your feet from concrete.If you are comfy the job will fly. Put tools on a rail/shelf/drawer in easy reach.

Depending upon the state of the "basket case " it may be worth doing a "dry build" to ensure everything fits properly and you have all the right parts before painting and plating. Also allows adjustments without risk of damaging paint.

Experience of my 85 year old baskets cases has taught me that they are like an old jigsaw puzzle with lots of original parts missing and many wrong parts added!

First try to get service manuals, parts books and other books about the bike. The Roadholder section on this website contains much information. Nowadays  I start with taking a tremendous lot of pictures of the bike. Then I begin making notes on everything. I make an Excel spreadsheet, that eventually turn into an assembly list, containing parts, part numbers, where I bought them, price, what I've done to them, measured tolerances etc. As my memory is less than perfect, the spreadsheet has one column where I mark check/done/buy/fix.  Those bikes I have done full restorations on, I have started with dismantling the bike in it's various subsystems, frame, fork, wheels, engine etc. Then I restore one subsystem before going to the next. I prefer to start with making a rolling chassi first just because it makes me more inspired to continue the project. I take a lot of more photos and makes a lot of notes during the process. I use the Brough Superior practice of first build the bike, test it and then dismantle it and paint it. Never managed to build a bike without scratching the paint.

Hello after some 50 odd years I must of done over a 100 restorations on bike and cars  The first thing to tackle is the frame and cycle parts  and all there fastenings  too and have parts bins marked up  so you do not lose parts  next move to the wheels and tyers then the wiring and  that side of it the engne comes last  and make a work stand for the engine   first is cleaning and then painting  and chrome plating   the parts as needed  , with engine you need to go though it part by parts and check for wear  and damage  and flat of mating parts  this  can be do with a larg pace of plate glass and valve griding paste  and hard work  and deadication is needed in bucket loads  best of luck  your anna j 

Not to contradict Anna as she is very knowledgeable but I make tires (tyres) one of the last things . If your project takes years and you plan on riding it they may  be halfway through their  age life before you are done.

Sorry, I had to put it, but in a nice way. I wish I knew as much about Nortons as she does. I am trying to sort out an N15cs at the moment, and am putting it together as a dry build to see what fits. What doesn't gets altered to fit if close in size. Tyres are the last thing due to old rubber does not grip the road. I have had to make centre stand fittings, and need to make an engine steady bracket. No proper tool box, but a genuine oil tank. Wheels are not too bad, 18 inch rear is a bit rarer. I have proper forks, and a complete engine. Most bits came from the States. I have stopped that now due to high air freight costs. Cables, levers, fastenings are common, or adaptable from other Norton Triumph parts. If I built planes they would look a bit odd, but they would fly. I might fit Triumph Harris forks and twin disc wheel, if they fit, because I have them on the shelf. Henry Ford used the same under pinnings on his muscle cars for 30 years with a new skirt every nine months, if you see where I am coming from. Bikes are to ride, not museum pieces.

Nice colour, I’m hoping to do my Navigator in that red,

I go with the no plan approach, mine also from a box of bits, the engine was supposed to be a runner and haven’t touched that but will fitting a Boyer unit. I have already done the gearbox. So I shall but the frame together, rebuild a set of forks,  add wheels, add the engine, mudguards  and oil tank/toolbox etc and so on. I’ll be doing a dry build first, possibly get it going and register it then decide on the final colour and dismantle for painting!

I want mine rolling as I have a few projects on the go and I’ll be wanting to put them on the bench too.

dan 

Glenn,

I live near Skipton in North Yorkshire. I have restored a Navigator and an Electra. I used to run a lightweight in the 1960's.

This has left me with a wealth of experience, many parts, publications and special tools to cover all the tricky bits. 

I've seen my Electra restoration published in 'Real Classic' over 5 issues.

My advice is to check out that there isn't someone like me living near you. It could be the best thing you do. and save you a small fortune to boot.

Peter

I suppose it depends on what level of “basket case” your starting from!  If it’s a completely unknown box of bits or a complete bike you’ve broken down originally.  Then I would also suggest before you start - what level of “rebuild” you want to see at the end.  Concourse, original spec, rebuild close to original & ride or just to ride - they’re all going to make a difference in your build process and budget.

As others have said (and there’s some great suggestions) start with a dry build of complete rolling chassis then check the engine for completeness & wear, making note of what’s repairable or needing replacement or missing.  A parts book for your year is essential - the “normal” Jubilee parts book you see is for the earlier years but there is an updated version from 64 on I’ve found (I have a copy which I’m happy to copy/scan).  Note all nuts/bolts/washers etc you need or can refurbish - in my experience there are some cycle parts that appear to be non-existent or v expensive but some do come up from time to time!  The NOC shop is great for some things but not entirely accurate for some of those things.  Ask for advice on here, I’ve found all responses to my queries have been a great help, use the search function for anything your not sure of - somewhere it might have been asked, also use the search function in the magazine, there’s loads of info in there!!

Good luck with the rebuild and take photos of everything, before during & after.

Bruce

Hello there  Well My Door is all way open to any Norton Owners Club Member  To Support you in your restoration project,  and I believe this club Should have a Restoration Prize  were  a sum of money can be won by a member to fund his Restoration  , Now  I ave a number of special tools  and can make Special tools and parts  and  Do welding from SIF gas welding to Mig/Tig welding  And Cast alloy welding is Done at a local Engineer workshop  J.J. Malone engineering  Goole At very reasonable cost  AS for professional paint work  Airmin Garage Does Motorcycle paint work to a very high standard  , And I do find it more rewarding to put back a historic motorcycle  witch this club should about,  and more  hard to find and special parts  should be undertaken by this club,  Were I find that this club as been very Lax in doing this  and only small number of part are made by this club, The EC needs to try and step this up a gear and try to get some Hard to find  and  obsolete parts Made   Now ave fun in your restoration      your  Anna J    

From my experience, NOC spares scheme is invaluable for worn or missing parts. 

If you are not stripping the engine check the points system as that can be worn beyond repair.

Things that took a long time on my bike and were expensive was re-chroming parts and re-building wheels if the rims are beyond repair. Both took months by the respective suppliers. 

Re-chroming is particularly expensive and new or good second hand parts are less expensive than re-chroming. If, like mine, your handlebars have lugs, not clamps, they are expensive to re-chrome.

I bought a new wiring harness off ebay for about £70 that included the wipac switch connectors (not the switches) and that was well worth the money as the original wiring was in a right mess.

 I used a spreadsheet to track costs (not assembly), I dare not tot up the cost now :-(

Dennis