Lucas Handlebar switches 1971 Commando

Yes is the easy answer.

I've just done this on my switches.. Actually I think I did the opposite to what you need to do as I had to add a horn push contact, so you have the better switches to start with.

I can't remember the exact details, but I will post some details this week sometime, with some pictures... And yes you are right, you need the correct flipper to achieve main/dip or left/right.

In theory I should have a spare flipper, but not sure what is left over from my swap round... Leave it with me..

It's coming back now.

The switch "motherboards" are essentially the same. The only thing that is different is that the horn push makes a contact, and on the opposite hand switch, the button in that position breaks a connection, that's the engine kill I think.

If you don't want an engine kill then you're cooking on gas. Just need to add the appropriate flipper and make the correct connections.

Ulrich. An idea...……… Why don't we just swap switches?

I have a spare indicator flipper, so we would both end up with a pair.

I only need a Dip, flash, horn "motherboard". As you can see mine is broken.

If you still want to do a conversion, I have attached some photos.

Just be aware that the engine kill button breaks a connection and the horn button makes a connection when pressed.

RH. White = live. UW Blue/White = main beam. UR Blue/Red = Dip beam. U Blue = Switched live from headlamp switch. PB Purple/Black = Horn. Flasher is an internal connection.

LH. White = Live. GR Green/ Red = lh indicator. WR White/Red = rh indicator. LG/N Light Green/Brown = live feed from flasher unit. WY White/Yellow = Engine kill.

Hope that helps? But maybe we should swap addresses?

... as the indicator has 3 positions - left, off and right - whereas the dip switch only has 2 - main and dip.

I never liked the indicators on the right so swapped mine over. Apart from the dip switch going from flipped down to level instead of level to up, it worked very well. And it wasn't hard to convert the kill switch to a horn button (press to make).

Actually, eventually I changed the left cluster to a Japanese one which worked much better but of course would have had the originality police down on my head.

Ian.. It does work, as the contacts for main/dip and left/right are identical. you need the right flipper though that is what dictates the switch positions.

Ulrich, message received. Thank you.

I have replied via email, if you don't receive anything please let me know and I will try again.

Pease ignore my notes on how to take the thing out of the switch body and save the little ball and spring... I see you have already done it.

You just have to love the internet... How else could we make a pair of switches across the ocean without it?

... I hadn't realised it was only the levers that differed. As you say Gary, how did we ever manage in the "good" old days?

Uli and I both have a pair of switches each now, thanks to a little good will, the wonders of the internet and a smashing club that's made it possible.

This story reminds me a little of something I overheard at an Autojumble at Bristol many years ago.

A fellow asked a trader if he could buy one of his BMW wheels (they are identical, front and rear.) The seller said quite bluntly "No. I am only selling them as a pair... I just told that bloke the same thing!"

Minutes later I saw the two blokes shaking hands and walking away with a wheel each... The seller looked most indignant!