Hello All,
As my engine gets (very slowly) nearer to completion I thought I would consider a cuople of things. I am sure that I have seen someone on this site fit a tap in the oil line to prevent wet sumping--with a long red handle that was in the track of the kickstart lever--and theus very visible. i cannot find it now.
I do not know that mine wet sumps but--all the other bikes I own have some none return valve (Triumphs with Morgo pumps and a BSA unit single) and many of them et oil into the crankcase periodically (esp the BSA).
On another front. I have bought one of those 2cv type oil filter heads. It seems to heve 3/8 diameter stubs. I have replaced then with 5/16 one before--whether it is possible on this one I do not know. I am tempted to sleeve the pipes on the engine fitting and the oil tank to suit--I have done it on one of my other bikes--any thoughts?
Cheers
JPA
Screw fix sell valves with…
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Mine doesn't wet sump !
Mine doesn't wet sump !
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Wet sump tap available at…
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Thanks lads--very helpful.…
Thanks lads--very helpful. I fitted one on my BSA 20 years ago then got another engine that (at that time) did not wet sum--it does now but not all the time). I set up a microswtich pinched from work--they were to stop fans starting when the cover was off--and all worked fine unti--having not used it for years and forgotton about it--a bad misfire started that took weeks to find. I beieve such things are availible on the bike scene these days.
I dont know that mine will wet sump but--well most bits have been butchered in some way so far. The oil pump seemed smooth and pump. I have not lapped it in or indeed ever knew one could and--although i use my old bikes as everyday and only transport its only likely to get used 2 weeks in ten. Thanks again.
I put the primary drive side on today--that was a game--I do not seem to have bought the huge key that drives the front engine pinion--so I used the old one. I haf to try to get the clutch and the pinion to go on--ahem--several times before it dit not push the key uout of the key way. I wnet to put the alternator rotoer on and found thst the key I bought from the spared scheme was not the one I needed. I cannot see what it is for. I found one that I could file the back down (lots) to let the rotor go on. It was then loose enoughto heave off by hand (I I had not bolted it on). The clutch had shake in the splines holding it on to the main shaft (they all appreaf extremely soft). I tend to assemble things like that with a low strenth loctite so they seem fine now.
Cheers
JPA
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the owner of an early KSS…
the owner of an early KSS velo fitted a tap to his bike and attached a length of flixible plastic fuel hose to it in such a manner that if he failed to turn it on his right heel would foul this pipe when attempting to start the machine with the kickstart thus reminding him the tap was closed, a very simple indication I think. kind regards
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I have had a Commando MK11…
I have had a Commando MK111 oil pump conversion on my Navigator, this slows down wet sumping greatly.
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Previously barry_owen wrot…
Previously barry_owen wrote:
I have had a Commando MK111 oil pump conversion on my Navigator, this slows down wet sumping greatly.
Hello barry,
was the conversion a replacement of a navigator oil pump with a Mk111 pump or some other magic?
getting my Navi together and would like to not have torebuild it in the near future.
Andrew
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Previously Andrew Wibmer w…
Previously Andrew Wibmer wrote:
Previously barry_owen wrote:
I have had a Commando MK111 oil pump conversion on my Navigator, this slows down wet sumping greatly.
Hello barry,
was the conversion a replacement of a navigator oil pump with a Mk111 pump or some other magic?
getting my Navi together and would like to not have torebuild it in the near future.
Andrew
It was a MK111 conversion kit from Norvil using the original oil pump.
The engineering work was done by Pete Lovel Commando engineer from Smethwick Birmingham
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Hi Andrew, Barry's conver…
Hi Andrew,
Barry's conversion did not involve changing the oil pump - but adding a non-return valve into the timing case AFTER the oil-pump. It involved modifying the timing case itself, and left a visible bump on the outside of the cover. Mk3 Commandos have a similar modification.
Also, beware if you are thinking of changing your pump - there were two types used - one up to 1963 (ish) - called a 3-start, and one used 1964-on (ish) which was called 6-start. The worm on the crank and the gear on the pump were BOTH changed at the same time - the angles are different.
To see which type you have, you need to look at the worm gear on the crank - see picture attached (hopefully!)
Attachments
oil-pump-worms-1-jpg
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Screw fix sell valves with the long handle with 8mm or 10mm plumbing fittings, 10mm is about right for a Commando should be ok for a lightweight. I have just fitted the brass gas version again from screw fix but it doesn't have the long lever. Tool station is your other option, slightly cheaper.