Wet stumping solution?

Mole grips exert alot of pressure with very little feel while using them so you could run the risk of sqeezing the metal oil pipe the rubber hose fits onto personally my choice would be for an oil pump refurb or replace ment

Ady

I reckon the only safe way to limit wet sumping is to use a straight 40 or 50 weight oil, remembering that the fastest drain-down will occur directly after the engine has been used for a lengthy run and heated the oil which will then be thinner, so you might wish to return the oil back to the tank by starting the engine after the oil has cooled until the scavenge clears the oil (monitor the oil return at the oil tank filler cap) you will then have all the oil back in the tank and now being cool will be reasonably thick and slow to drain. Also I reckon keeping the cranks with the big ends uppermost must help too as this reduces the crankshaft draining so fast and pulling the oil through the feed side pump. Why? Well apart from the reduced pressure head difference you have to remember that the crankshaft has a built in large capacity oil container built into it. This is the the sludge trap area and the two big end journals which are hollow, making the combined capacity quite large. This heavy weight of oil, if left at the bottom of the stroke, will try to empty itself and as said, pull more oil through the pump....Les

Hey up. Probably not the best method as the walls of the pipe would probably de lam after a while and cause a restriction, not good. Ive used a tap in my line with a mag cut out so you cant start it if you wanted to. Took a bit of time to get it nice but its good and its safe. egg

I had no idea what wet sumping was when I was using my bike every day for going to work etc. That's the simple solution - just keep riding them.

The complex one would be an electric oil pump which would clear the sump back to the tank prior to starting. Any takers? No patent on the idea!

Hi Gordon...Perhaps instead of the electric pump (a good idea) you could simply have a sump plug fitted with an elbow bend extension to a pipe and tap?. The pipe could be rigidly fitted to one of the engine/frame studs and the actual tap located at the end in a convenient position at the side, left or right of the engine. The orifice of the tap end would be covered by a close fitting rubber cover to keep it clean. All would be needed is a clean jug to transfer the oil back to the tank, turn off the tap and refit the rubber cover. The whole thing should be of high quality and strength. How about it "Andover Norton" or "RGM"? Think of the thousands of Nortons there are!....Les...

Gordon's suggestion of an electric pump has been on my mind for a while now. My large sump plug has a smaller drain plug within it. My plan is to fit a banjo bolt and pipe via a windscreen washer motor back to the tank. With the motor mounted low it would not require priming. One concern is the effect of having an small open pipe in the crankcases with the only restriction in it being the washer motor. Thoughts?

Conversely, close the petrol tap, open the throttle wide, lift the exhaust lifter and kick away to the tune of "16 Tons" by Tennessee Ernie Ford. Good exercise - and it will be clear in no time. Georgeð

The main problem with the washer pump idea is that the washer pump is designed to handle a cool liquid. In this case, it would be asked to handle very hot oil.

Agreed that oil is not hot when the engine has been sitting over night, but certainly is, after the engine has been put into use. The hot oil would find its own level in the pump via the pump's input line when the engine is running. Then, hot oil would find its way back into the pump from the oil tank return when the engine is stopped.

So you'd want to control both the intake and output lines and when the pump ran. Seems a bit complicated compared to the ball valve with an ignition cut out.

The washer pump only needs to pump cold oil where the engine has wet sumped in storage, once the sump is clear you switch it off until the next storage wet sump. The standard oil pump stays active and will cope when the engine is hot even if worn, if badly worn it needs a refresh. I saw one on a Matchless years ago, it was used to clear the sump back into the oil tank before the engine was fired up and was only used to clear the sump when it was cold. You just need a extra single line from the sump to pump and then into the normal oil return pipe via a T joint.