6v LED headlights?

Do you mean LED or really HID?

Just read an article that points out if you use a 6 Volt system how much more power is lost in the wiring compared to a 12 Volt system...by converting from 6Volt to 12 Volt ....."in the connecting wires power losses are cut by 75%"!

Power losses:

12 Volt system, about 3% loss in the wiring! So net effect is more power where you need it!

6 Volt system, about 11% loss in the wiring!

Maybe converting the machines is the real solution.

Cheers

John H

Yes Allen, I converted mine ('55 ES2) to an LED headlight. Got the lamp from Classic Dynamo & Regulator Conversions (qv website) I bought a "6-24V Double Dipper Bulb. Type BPF P36d" Watch that specify the correct earth type. Beam not quite as good as tungsetn but much brighter light and much less drain on the battery.George

Previously Allen Hanford wrote:

Got the lamp from Classic Dynamo & Regulator Conversions

Sounds like a winner, thanks!

Wow, that arrived quickly!

I, too, use the same headlight bulb in a couple of my bikes, 6 and 12v and agree with the comments about the pattern but these are the best that I have tried. It is worth converting all lights on the bike to LED as you will find that a tungsten tail light draws about the same current as the LED headlight. I use a 12V total loss system on my 500T and can get a days riding out of the battery.

Rod

Quite right, Rod. I did change the stop/tail light as well but didn't mention it as Allen was talking about headlamps. The only one I didn't change (can't remember why now) was the underslung pilot lamp. Think I had a problem getting the right one. George

I bought double dipper LED headlights from Classic Dynamos and Regulators. Very good for being seen, hopeless for actually seeing where you are going. The beam focus is all wrong. A waste of money as far as I am concerned. 6 volt headlights can be much improved if you run separate earth wires to your various electrical components - especially your headlight.

Have a look at your headlamp earth. Brit bikes have a earth wire from the headlamp bulb connector to the metal headlamp shell. The current then has to negotiate all the bracketry between headlamp mounts and the steering head bearings (well-greased, of course) to the bike frame. Lots of power loss there.

Do the decent thing and run an earth from headlamp bulb connector to frame earth, or direct to battery.

You can get 6V halogen headlamp bulbs to fit classic headlights from Norbsa02. Also LED replacement bulbs, but not for the headlamp. He does offer headlamp bulb replacement LED s, but only in 12V.

My plan is to avoid spending on LEDs for my 6V system, get a DynamoRegulators electronic regulator for increased efficiency at 6V. To be fitted at my leisure. Later it can be adjusted to give 12V, and go all out on techy bulb replacements. I have a pair of Cyclon batteries (in parallel for 6V), so can rewire them in series to give 12V.

Paul

Perhaps awee bit off topic, but you could go all the way and convert to a 12v system from this company and forget all your electrical and ignition problems.

http://www.powerdynamo.biz/eng/systems/7197/719710main.htm

I'veequipped two of my motorcycles with their systems and so far I'm very satisfied with the results.

1942 NSU fitment photos

https://goo.gl/photos/VxtYKjjJnHCF7QwV8

And don't forget to re-focus the bulb holder to improve the beam pattern with 6v LED.I forgot at firstthat it needs to be done (having had pre-focus bulbs for everything sold over the past many decades) and the dip pattern was hopeless at first.

My 6v LED from dynamoregulatorconversions still does not great beam pattern, but it takes next to no power and isn't as likely to vibrate to bits unexpectedly so it's staying. I don't like the brilliant silvery white light but daylight running on dip is no worry.

Little worry - I have an LED in the speedo. I think it's probably not a good thing, since theheat from a filament bulb tends to keep the instrument dry?

They, LEDs are much harder to focus, in the true sense of the word into a channelled beam pattern! able to focus the intensity of light were you need it. Many cars at night in the UK are constantly driving on Full beam, (High), because Dipped beam is adequate at best under perfect conditions. So get a wintery night with poor visibility fog and mist and you are struggling to see. The other things is many roads do not have the inside edge white line repainted in or the old fashioned glass-prism type Cats- eyes any more and this makes them dangerous at night or in poor visibility!

Even modern cars with the latest "must have" led headlights suffer from crap beam pattern and loads of antisocial flare.

Previously david_evans wrote:

Even modern cars with the latest "must have" led headlights suffer from crap beam pattern and loads of antisocial flare.

The problem is that the headlight is designed for an incandescent filament type bulb. Modern headlights that use LED type bulbs are designed to give the correct beam pattern with them. The problem is when trying to mix one type with the other.

As they say in Parliament, I refer the honourable gentleman to my previous statement. In my experience, LED headlight bulbs are considerably worse than incandescents for night riding. Massive white glare everywhere except directly in front where you are riding into a black hole.

Whilst using LED stop/tail bulbs, I also keep incendescent bulbs in the speedo and rev counter just to provide a bit of warmth to alleviate any condensation problems. I also prefer the warmer light from them.

Previously Allen Hanford wrote:

Got the lamp from Classic Dynamo & Regulator Conversions

Sounds like a winner, thanks!

A word of caution. If you fit LED lighting then the alternator can produce more power than you are using. Unless you have fitted an electronic regulator to control the power the only place that surplus power can go is into the battery where it will electrolyse the battery acid and heat it up. If it is an old style battery you may need to keep topping it up. If it is a modern sealed battery you may have to throw it away.

Cheers

John

6V regulators are now being made, LED's internally operate at 5V, the last one I bought is marked as usable 5V to 30V and is suitable for both +ve and -ve earth. So the lumens (light output) they send out is constant as long as the input voltage stays in the stated range and your setup is capable of supplying the needed amps. Only issue left is the night time beam pattern, the last ones I bought have finally got that sorted but being H4 you would need a H4 lens to use them.

If you look on YouTube HID units come out the best, although its illegal from May 20th 2018, I believe just to inset a kit in a Former Halogen housing!