Spraying tank with cellulose

K2 lacquer will sit fine on cellulose - just start with a few dust coats, then a bit more, then leave it for a day to cure, then day two put the thick layers on. The problem with cellulose is what may be UNDER it. If you were down to bare metal and then used fresh primer then all will be fine. If, however, there is some odd old paint that someone else put on then that will react.

Yes for K2 you need a decent mask and fume extraction. Go to a local paint supplier and there is a K1 single pack petrol proof lacquer.

Hi John,

Just to be certain there is a Polish company with the K2 brand name who distribute car aerosols and other products; I think you really mean 2K lacquer -otherwise called two pack. The K2 brand lacquer is only an acrylic, not a 2K paint.

2K (two pack) contains isocyanates which gives off poisonous fumes when sprayed hence you do need proper equipment. Health & Safety recommend only the use of a full face air fed mask. I have seen masks advertised on Ebay claiming the filters (B1) to be suitable for spraying 2K paint but they are not CE approved.

Single pack is safe to use and if you do use it please post an opinion on here. Both of my local motor factors said that the trade didn't rate it hence they didn't stock it.

Patrick

Previously john_dunn1 wrote:

Thanks Norman and Patrick.

Basically I want to spray my tank with the cellulose I have, and then cover it with whatever to prevent damage to the paintwork from petrol. Also want it to look nice.

RS Paints sell a paint for the Jubilee. Has anyone bought this paint, is it petrol proof.

Thanks

John.

Hello well as I have spraying experience for well over 40 years I do not recommend RS paints, I will only use Nu-Again paints of Bedfordthey have been making their own paint since 1946 and they do an anti-ethanol lacquer but is expensive 18 pounds for a 400ml can then postage on top but with care and the right temperature within your workspace, you can get a top pro finish that's ethanol petrol prof but please talk to them first there always happy to help yours anna j

I had a quick look at the Nu-Agane web site and they do give a good impression. Their prices for a litre of 2K clear gloss lacquer + half a litre of activator (sold as a kit) is only £16 odd, inc VAT. So very competitive on price. But there will be carriage on top of this - not necessarily a big problem if you live in England. Your local motor factor should be cheaper as you collect over the counter.

John, only you can decide what you want as a finished item; as Norman has pointed out cellulose can be tricky to apply over an old unknown finish. I would go further and say every painter dreaded spraying cellulose unless you are starting from bare metal ; it can re-act for no known reason - 2K by comparison is so predictable. On the other hand cellulose is easy to work with and can give the most superb finish. With 2K you have 45 minutes from mixing the paint to cleaning the gun;with cellulose you can hang the gun up and come back to it ages later.

You have to decide in advance what your objective is. To get a superb cellulose original style finish you start from bare metal, etch prime, hi-build primer, then top coat but no final lacquer coat. Plus plenty of flatting down between coats. If you want a tough petrol proof finish you need to flat down the top coat with 1200 or finer wet and dry paper and put on three or more coats of lacquer - but lacquer looks wrong if you are into concours. Tunisian Blue was not lacquered.

Patrick

Well said Patrick, I was possibly a bit quick with a summary reply to John.

Nu-Agane are local to me and that's where I heard there was a petrol-proof 1K style aerosol.

John, you are probably hearing that both Patrick and I are saying "beware of what is already on the tank" if you want to add cellulose to it. I have tried 'quick jobs' in the past and some work, some don't. The ONLY safe route is to strip it ALL off andetch-prime, fill, get perfect, prime, flatten then finally colour coat, and lacquer.

Also beware that old paints do not last for ever. They chemically react and no longer spray properly. Even filtering does not help. After doing all the preparation to bare metal you might as well buy new paints - and that means going to polyester base coat (the chosen colour) and then a 2K top lacquer. That is how cars are sprayed in repair shops today because all the colour cellulose is no longer available.

All paint finishes look better with a clear coat on top. (Often called "lacquer") Even black! (It is essential to use it on top of metallic paints.) There are many advertised as "petrol-proof", which is what we used in the old days - 1960s. Almost any kind of paint can go on top of cellulose (Which is by far the easiest to paint with as it is so forgiving!) but the reverse isn't true as cellulose will remove or damage many other types of paint - which we used to call "synthetic". If any of the basecoat is sound after sanding down there is no need to do a bare-metal strip if you intend to use an acrylic paint. I have known several professionals who reckon this as it creates unnecessary work. If you intend to use cellulose you can test any basecoat with a wipe over with cellulose thinners. If it crinkles up you'll need to strip it.

My first re-spray job was my Dad's Hillman/Commer van with windows, at the age of 12 (60 years ago) with my Mum's Electrolux vacuum cleaner, which came with all the attachments including spraygun! I used cellulose paint of course - easy-peasy!