Commando brake conversion to Kawasaki Ninja

Previously boo_cock wrote:

OR, you could have used an RGM bore reducer kit and some EBC pads and saved a fortune. Believe me IT WORKS! You can't get much better than a locked front wheel.

Boo, Where were you when I needed you ? I had read about reducing the bore on the master cylinder but every discussion included custom machining of a bore sleeve and difficulties find correctly sized seals.

I had zero awareness that a kit, i.e. the RGM was available. I was aware of better pads for the Lockheed caliper but opted to not waste $$ on better pads without improvement to the master.

Where can I buy the RGM kit ?

Found RGM: http://www.rgmmotors.co.uk , Ron

I may consider going back to modified Lockheed. Nothing on the Commando has been altered yet. Have not modified the fender bracket so far.

If saving money was the major consideration none of us would own Nortons. I'd keep my '83 Honda Sabre V45, in excellent condition, everything works, always starts and nothing leaks. I love my Commando though.

Depending on your perspective I don't have a "fortune" in my conversion, I do have labor of love time:

Used Master and Caliper $65

New brake line ~ $38, I need to replace the original anyway

Banjo bolts for brake line $26

Aluminum stock $5, scrap from local machine shop

Lost mount for right mirror and 100% original look lost too

It can lock up the front wheel too.

Previously Ron Wellman wrote:

Have just completed converting my '74 Commando MK IIa's useless OEM Lockheed front brake system to one from a '96 Kawasaki 600R.

Now my Commando stops as well as goes !

The Kawasaki master cylinder was simply a bolt on replacement. It has an integral mechanical micro switch that accepts the original brake switch wires so no issue with brake light switching.

I retained the original Lucas right hand switch assembly by cutting down a spare clutch lever. See attached photos.

The new caliper fits the existing Commando rotor well.

I fabricated a custom adapter bracket from 6.5 mm aluminum cutting the stock with a metal cutting blade in my 12" band saw.

No costly machine shop tools required.

Brake line used is a 36" Goodrich Clear Colorlfex Brake Line - 83338 from Dennis Kirk.

See attached photos and details will become apparent.

The most difficult part was the "cutting and trying" approach to designing the caliper adapter. Mock up template was made and refined with plywood before cutting the aluminum.

I Will gladly share an exact template of my caliper adapter to anyone who wants it.

One of the attached photos* shows where the new caliper conflicts with the lower fender bracket. My current intent is to cut the bracket and braze in a bent piece that will clear the caliper. Have not done it yet, I welcome alternate suggestions.

The braking is sufficiently aggressive that I may look into adding the type of anti forks-twist mechanism others have discussed when they have fitted an effective brake system.

*NOTE: Due to an apparent bug in the system whenever I attempt to use the "Add another attachment" to add more than one photo I am redirected back to NOC home page. I will attempt to add supporting photos (plural) to my posting as edits to the original hoping it will accept them as a cumbersome workaround.

If you look in the Edit window, you should be seeing dialog boxes for adding an Attachment or an Image. A photograph is an Image and if you use this facility, it should work.If you wish to add more than one Image, it is sometimes beter to add the first, Save, then go back into Edit and add the other(s).I think there is still a bug that dumps you back as described if .BMP images are used but .JPGs should be OK.

Webmaster

Webmaster,

I was attempting to add .JPGs and did try uploading one at a time as suggested. I'll try it again and see what happens. Thanks for your rapid attentiveness to this issue. Ron