I have finally fitted the correct plunger type switch and it works, but:
How are the wires supposed to connect? It's easy to put a bullet in from each end but they stick out and are clearly wrong. There is a gap underneath, so the wires could and probably should be fed in there. But then how are they fixed? Are they just soldered?
I've always wondered how it was done
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Thanks George. I'm over…
Thanks George. I'm over-thinking. It's still raining and I'm finding jobs in the shed...
The result is attached. Just bent the wires sideways and tucked away in a sleeve.
The bracket had to be made with a joggle to the left for the switch to reach the tab on the brake rod.
Now to plaster it over with black silicone sealant to protect from corrosion.
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I hope this does not qualify me as a rivet-counter,
but in my experience the brake light switch is mounted on the rear of the left pillion rest mount, along with the silencers. There is a tension spring to pull it to operate, from a cross drilling in the pivot pin between brake pedal and brake rod.
But, you have got the switch working, and that is what counts.
Paul
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I've now found a picture in…
I've now found a picture in Bacon's 'Norton Twins Restoration' from a 1966 650SS.
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Hi David. Your installation…
Hi David. Your installation and Bacons photo are correct. I have an orriginal switch and wiring on my 1960 99. the late Atlas is the same. There was not an external spring .At least not on the Slimline.
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Thanks Bob. I meant to have…
Thanks Bob. I meant to have a good look at yours. But it's invisible, isn't it? No matter. I've lost count of the number of fuses I blew when disconnecting the spring one to remove the primary case...not an issue now.
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Hi David, If you want to…
Hi David, If you want to look at anything ,its no problem. However the DL panels hide a multitude of sins !. Due to me having a thing for gismo's and a huge excess of spare energised electrons ,its a rats nest of extra wires and added earths. The orriginal loom is still in there but incorporated into the mayhem and re- purposed where needed. Those clever little electrons sometimes even flow in the opposite directions to the orriginal layout. But somehow it has always worked. The battery is over 10 years old and is always fully charged , it will start and run without it, and has needed to as in the IOM when it has had to donate its battery to other sick bikes while being a mobile bike battery charger and overnight phone/ laptop/tent light power point when camping ,plus its onboard compressor pumps tyres and airbeds.
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Hi David,
It has always looked wrong to me too, but a bullet in from each side seems to be the way it was done from all the bikes I've seen, including in period pictures. The rearmost bullet wire doubles back and runs under the switch into a sleeve together with the 'front' wire.
Please don't ask which colour should be at the front and which should be at the back as it will only cause arguments amongst the rivet counters.
Hope this helps,
George