I don't usually concern myself much with these, but I'm surprised none of my books has a setting for the camshaft nut. Is there a recommended value? Is it ever known to be a problem?
Just remember
That the cam is cast iron and as such won't take a big torque.
As Robert says, tight with a normal spanner.
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Thanks chaps. Nothing broken…
Thanks chaps. Nothing broken! Should have used Loctite but I'm not taking it apart again...
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Hi David, You can have the…
Hi David, You can have the fun and adventure of doing it again on the roadside !!.
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Thats a really usefull…
Thats a really usefull chart. Going to print it and nail it to my tool cupboard. I'm also making a list of all the fasteners on my 99 and the size of socket that fits , fed up with all the tooing and frowing , Followed by the bad tempered throwing .!.
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Thanks Phil! I should have…
Thanks Phil! I should have checked the web site first.
I did remember the key...I did have to take the sprockets back off because I forgot to paint white spots on the bottom gear teeth alongside the marks...when it is all offered up the cam chain totally covers the marks on the gear faces, so the teeth need their own marks. It's a while since I last went in there. I stripped it to Loctite the spindle, with 601. Seems to have worked.
I wish I could find a good way to lock the engine when tightening the cam and alternator rotor. Getting a sprag between the primary sprockets is a pain because of the footrest tube. I'm sure it's worth a special tool.
I hope it stays put...no loctite on the nut.
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Rope Trick
A length of rope down through the plug hole works for me.
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...as long as I don't put it…
...as long as I don't put it in on the exhaust stroke and bend valves...
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bike in top gear and back brake on, I do mine up firmly with a 12" ring spanner and a touch of nut lock. You cant go too mad as you only have the cam chain to resist. the force. I use a cutaway cover to avoid straining the intermediate gear spindle.Never come loose.