Hi - thanks for reading
I'm building a 1970 S type, from a basket case, which came with no electricals at all
I have the basic bike complete, (engine, gearbox, primary are in the frame, battery box, oil tank mounted, swing arm in, headlamp shell in - currently up on the bench so once wired the forks and wheels can go in too to become a rolling chassis) now I am trying to work out the cable routes and runs
the wiring diagrams help show colours, but there is nothing I can find to help with the actual routes the harness and "spurs" take
apart from the obvious top run from the headlamp back under the top "spine" and through to the battery box - everything else is a mystery - especially picking up the rear lights, horn, alternator, and a modern regulator / rectifier
i hate running things in, trimming and fastening, only to have to keep removing and re routing
any help, photo's or sketches gratefully received - I can't be the only one stumped with this
1970 S wiring
Paul,
I also have a 1970 "S" Type. I wired my bike with the Lucas wiring loom for 1968-69 Commandos.
Do you make your own loom or do you use a ready made one?
The Lucas loom has many wires in in which are not needed when fitting a boyer ingnition and a modern Reg/Rect. (Like I did .) Basically I routed the loom from the headlamp along the left hand side of the frame´s backbone, then through the central hole in the frameplate. Now here are the connecting wires to the ingnition lock in the left sidepanel, the battery cables and the cables for the old Zener diode and rectifier. You do not need those. I left them in the loom but covered the connectors with shrinking tube and zip- tied then back to the loom.
On my modern regulator/rectifier there are two yellow cables which connect to the alternator cables, one red cable to positive ground or battery + and a black one to battery -. I routed the horn cable and brake light cable down to these items.
Then there are some connectors for the rear light including indicator cables. I need them here in Germany, don´t know if they are mandatory in UK. The loom to the rear light exits on the right hole in the rear frame plate and I zip- tied it under the right side of the rear loop. I had to make this part of the loom by myself I think it is not included.
BTW: the cylinders on the 69-70 Roadsters and "S" Types were painted silver.
- Log in to post comments
Loom?
Was the question pointed at me? The answer is NO I do not make looms for any bike, but I do sell a wiring kit which covers most British bikes from the early 60s when Lucas/Rists standadised the wiring colour scheme. Not only for bikes but all British cars as well. My kit is supplied with a copy of this colour scheme as it applies to British bikes. All reg/rects for British bikes that I have come across have 2 Yellow a RED and a BLACK. If it has a Green earth wire then it is made by/for Honda-use it at your peril.
- Log in to post comments
Having wired a few bikes especially Nortons-I have always said that the wiring was the very last thing to do on the bike. Yes you need the tank off to do the wiring, but fitting wiring then find some thing later fitted fouls up-not good so fit all the mechanicals first then fit the wiring around them. One rule is that most of the electrical bits really position them-selves so the wires are the 'servants' and connected up to be out of sight as much as possible and out of harms way. The stop light switch on all these bikes being one of the worse areas for fouling, while the steering head has got to be slack to cope with the steering change. This bike already has a changed ignition (Boyer) and changed Reg/Rect so the wiring has to be modified to suit. This is one good reason I do not like 'original' looms. When I wire a bike I prefer to wire the items I am presented with, and hide the wires as much as possible. I hope this helps.