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Wipac Tricon to Triconscul

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For those of you who own an early Commando like me here is a conversion for the light/horn/ beam switch:I was lucky to find an original Wipac Triconsul switch whiich was originally mounted on my 1970 Commando.This switch is not produced as a replica currently, only the Ducon (horn/lights) and Tricon ( horn/lights/kill switch). photo IMG_20150430_173356516_zpski2qpvgd.jpgIt has a brown high beam flash knob instead of a green one.Last week I bought a whole wiring harness from a 70 Commando S on Ebay only the get the orginal green knob switch...The switch was incomplete but I found the missing high/low beam lever and a new backplate in my electrical spare parts box.A friend of mine also has a 1970 Commando. He wants to rebuild it as close to factory stock as possible. At a local swap meet we bought a Wipac Tricon replica switch.The difference to the Triconsul is both contacts go to ground when pushed. Pushing the red kob is a kill switch for magneto ignition.The Triconsul has an extra connecting post where the brass strip has contact when pushing the green (or brown) knob which is for the high beam flash.The black knob is for the horn.The inside of the two switches: photo IMG_20170211_101647180_zps78pyib1q.jpgOn top is the replica base plate , below the original Triconsul plate. The holes for the extra connector are already there.The extra connector is seen on top also the brass strip is different. photo IMG_20170211_101705165_zpsevrblbhp.jpgThe other side shows the connecting bridge to the high beam connector.Since I had no surplus connector I used a cable end sleeve in the right diameter for the hole in the base plate. photo IMG_20170211_192148715_zpsgeozfqhd.jpgA suitable screw was driven in for securing the connecting bridge and the brass trip was bent and shortened. photo IMG_20170211_192234400_HDR_zpsnnhrzhjx.jpgThis is how the original switch looks from the inside. photo IMG_20170211_124755752_zpsch73bnkh.jpgThe red knob was firstly primed and the painted green with Revell enamel paint for plastic models. photo IMG-20170211-WA0002_zpsm6d08zjm.jpeg photo IMG-20170211-WA0004_zps87huedv4.jpeg photo IMG-20170211-WA0007_zpsbktcvod4.jpegThe finished Triconsul replica on top and the original below.  photo IMG_20170211_192850626_zpscwo4lsec.jpg photo IMG_20170211_192903511_zpsil5audbo.jpg photo IMG_20170211_192804317_zpshpxutr8x.jpg photo IMG_20170211_192227256_HDR_zpsklhdpvyy.jpgTo open the relpica switch I had to cut off the melted plastic pins. I drilled holes in the posts and four screws are securing the switch now.Here is how the cables connect to the switch posts: photo IMG_20170211_101336778_zpskklk5tyo.jpgHappy butchering the switches!

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So it should be possible to use it as a flasher-switch too Wink

No, for a flasher you need a 3 position switch, left off and right. This switch has no off position, its either dipped or not dipped.

Good right up by the way.

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I did a similar thing for my Electra. Only I kept the red button and turned it into a electric start button. I was surprised that there was already provision for extra terminals inside the switch. It made me wonder whether they make different types of Tricon switches?

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Previously Maurice Turlington wrote:

I did a similar thing for my Electra. Only I kept the red button and turned it into a electric start button. I was surprised that there was already provision for extra terminals inside the switch. It made me wonder whether they make different types of Tricon switches?

To my knowledge ( and search) our far east friends only make Ducon ( horn/lights) and Tricon (horn/lights/kill switch) variants. But you?re right the extra holes for additional posts are already there.

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Previously Ulrich Hoffmann wrote:

You need a photobucket account and some advanced computer programming knowledge... (SpÃ?ssle!)

OK, that's what I don't like. I'd prefere to copy and paste.

Fritz

BTW. I'm a retired IT-Pro, have been in this business since 1968

 



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