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TLS for 56 Dommie 99

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I have asked this question before but never had a definitive answer. Is there a TLS brake that will fit directly onto a 56 Dommie 99 hub? We have already been down the Atlas/Commando route and the diversity of comments have done nothing to inspire me to lash out big bucks on what could well turn out to be a pig in a poke. My existing standard brake plate has a return rim that sits over the hub to form a seal and the hub itself is full width with ribs, however I cannot be 100% certain that it is the original hub, I do know that it is the same hub that was on the bike in 1959.

Apologies for labouring this point but I would so like to resolve this issue and move on. Many thanks. Ron.

 

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Hi Ron,

Where in the country are you? (Assuming UK at the moment)

I live in Nortampton and have a complete 650 front wheel, not being used sitting in my garage. Whilst it is a SLS unit, the Commando TLS plate does drop straight into this wheel. If you want to either borrow it and try and see if it will work on your wheel, or bring your wheel over and try it out, feel free.

Note, my bike is a '67, so has 7 3/8" forks. I can't remember if it was just the slider that changed at the brake end or if the plate did as well. Someone is bound to know and tell us.

Regards, George. 

Many thanks for your kind offer George, I actually live in Cornwall so popping in for a chat and a look see would be a non starter. I am sure that you will have read the only other post below and it looks very much as though a new/different front wheel is the only way to go, without giving up the dream.

Thanks again for your kind offer. Ron.

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It looks very much like you have the two piece (but full width) hub. 1/2 ally 1/2 steel correct for 1956. Yes the brake plate does not interchange with the later full ally width front hub-nuisance.

One way out is to change the front wheel for later one that does take the twin leading front brake.

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Have you tried 'racing' linings? We used to have AM4 green racing linings, when they were machined to suit the drum they 'did the business' They do tend to grab when the drum is a bit rust -first thing in the morning.

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Go to either Villers Services or Saftek and get your shoes relined with MZ gold, as used on the RGM rear brake shoes. A really good woven lining that works well from cold with little heat fade, I have used it on a B44 8" front single sided brake and its performance equals the 7" TLS on my Starfire.

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I have a 19T sprocket on my model 99 and am thinking of putting on a bigger one for more top end, maybe a 22T. Any thoughts?

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Jim.   

    By "more top end" I assume you mean higher top speed.  If so a bigger sprocket will not help - to go faster you need more power (a lot more - square law at least). Basic laws of physics.  However, given today's motorways etc. compared with 1950s main roads, a bigger sprocket will mean lower revs, so more relaxed cruising.  Assuming a 43 tooth driven sprocket, going to 22 is approx a 16% change - much too much, a 20 is more sensible at approx 5%.  The former will be like a 2 speed road box with 2 overdrives and lots of clutch slipping to get moving.

   No doubt others will also voice their views, then you can decide on the ballance of opinions.

P.Strawbridge

 

In reply to by peter_strawbridge

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Thanks, It is fairly flat here along the coast of Connecticut and I find that I have to really wind up this old boy to do over 50 and 1st gear is really low. I'll try a 20T. Jim

 

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…riding style and road choice will give you an idea of what you need.  Peter is correct that the 20T will put you in a range suitable to modern road conditions. 
 Unless you significantly increased the output of the motor without telling us ????

 

PS: a 22 will give you a lot of transmission knock in town drive/ over run.

 

I use one on my commando 850 but it is a wide open breather with single seat and 9 stone rider.

J

 



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