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Potential dangerous problem with LED lights

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A friend of mine has a pair of Commando 850 MkIII’s, both fitted with LED lights throughout, including side lights and instrument lights.

He was in the garage one day when he turned the ignition to ON and then pressed the brakes, he was surprised when he saw the front light go on, remember this is a LED sidelight so is very bright and is even ok to use as daytime riding lights.

You could say ‘so what?’, but imagine the situation when you are driving along and every time you apply the brakes, the ‘headlight’ will come on. Remember the LED sidelight is very bright. What are other road users going to think? You are flashing to let them pull out?

His initial thought was a wiring issue of some sort, so he then tried the same test on the other MkIII with the same results.

He also noticed that if you turned the switch to ‘park’ then applying the brakes made the side lights go out. Not an issue but an indication of something strange going on.

So, he talked to me and I put some thought into it, I suggested he puts a standard stop / tail light in and as expected, everything worked as it should so it was obviously something related to the LED stop / tail light.

He brought one of the bulbs round to me and I tried it in my Commando, it had the same situation with the switch in ‘park’ and applying the brakes but did not put the front sidelight on when the ignition was on and the brakes were applied, but I do not have an LED sidelight. This gave me an indication of what the problem was. I removed the bulb from my sidelight and measured 10V when the brake was applied.

I then went back to the stop/tail light and investigated the way it works. As LED’s are much more directional than filament bulbs, it has one LED pointing downwards to light the number plate and a handful around the edge to be both the tail light and stop light.

See attached picture of LED bulb

The way the ones around the side change from the equivalent of a 21W (Brake) to a 5W (Side) is there is a 86 ohm resistor in series.

See attached circuit extract.

The 86 ohm resistor is internally fitted between the ‘N’ from the brake light supply line and the ‘NG’ from the tail light supply.

If the ignition is ON then there is power on the ‘W’ wire (this is switched volts from the ignition switch). Then pressing the brake switch (either front or rear) will put volts directly on the stop light and also via the 86 ohm resistor on the tail light, This in itself is not a problem but the ‘NG’ wire also connects to the instrument lights and front sidelight. These will all come on as they are very low current.Note if you have a normal filament sidelight bulb will not have the same problem as the current supplied through the 86 ohm resistor will be insufficient to light the bulb up.

I believe but have not tried yet, that a simple solution to this would be to fit a diode in the ‘NG’ line to prevent the feedback from the brake light powering the NG line. I will try when I have the chance and report back.

This is something the bulb manufacturers could do and it is possible that some manufacturers may do such a thing.

 

 

 

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Is he using the correct original-type Mk3 ignition switch or the more commonly available later Triumph type ?

I have a vague recollection that Triumph switches at the time required a diode to prevent this happening .

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It is the correct switch, but it cannot be anything from before the days of LED lights as the problem will only be seen if you have LED stop / tail and front sidelight.

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hello,

i had the same problem on a car i had. it had normal stop and tail bulbs fitted. but unknown to me when i pressed the brake pedal all the side lights came on. a mate of mine spotted it happening . it was a case that one of the brake light filaments had sagged down and contacted the side light filament within the bulb.

 

 

barry

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In my Humble experience, I made a dreadful mistake in fitting LED's to my final project.

A long while back I gave warning on this site of the dangers.

LED's can cause blindness and sight issues.

Many years ago a bill was passed to stop the sale of normal bulbs for households.What happened to choice?  Where do we buy safe and effective bulbs.?

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Hi Colin

I had exactly the same problem with a 6 volt LED rear/brakelight bulb, ie deployment of the rear brake turned on the LED pilot light. Changing back to a twin fillament tungston eliminated the problem, but I did like the brightness of the LED bulbs. I tried another LED rear of the same type. This one was better in that it did not turn on the front pilot bulb with the brake light, however when viewed in a darkened garage you could just detect a faint glimmer at the front present at all times. I decided to live with this despite the constant leakage of electricity. I am pleased that you understand the electrical issues involved and wonder if you can suggest a proper 'cure' that would enable me to run with the bright 6 volt LED bulbs in place and eliminate the electrical leakage.

Thanks in anticipation

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hello,

strange whats happening ,its as though the LED,s have lost their earth connections,not fully, and trying to earth out through whats available on the earthy side.

 

barry

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Hi Barry,

yes, that was my first thought when I started investigating. But it is the 86 ohm resistor internal to the bulb to give the bright/dim effect that is causing the issue.

I have given further thought to this and it needs two diodes, one in each line to prevent both problems. These could each be fitted in between two bullet connectors covered by heat shrink to simply replace the existing bullet connectors. As soon as I am fit enough again (long story) I will try the modification.

 Tony  

 



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